Snow Driving and Snow Tires
#23
11-05-2010, 02:33 PM
So, while Discos might be better than anything in snow, it comes at a price.
But a serious comment to the thread's question is that if a Disco gets stuck in the snow, it's really difficult to get it out - you just don't find a few people to give it a push. For me it required some creative snow shoveling.
#24
11-05-2010, 05:02 PM
When I was a kid we did that to our cars, take the oil can with fresh HD-30 and squirt it into the doors, frame holes, fenders...the pickup and car would drip for a day or two but they had very little rust.
#25
11-05-2010, 05:05 PM
Note that even the newest LRs have only 6 year rust warranties, and that's only rust perforation on the sheet metal, with absolutely no rust warranty on the frame. (I had rust through in several places in the undercarriage after just 3 years after buying it new, and nothing is covered by warranty)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tQ2Tp3u_f8
#26
11-05-2010, 05:47 PM
This is why every spring you need to do a complete under carriage flush with fresh water to get all of the road salt and grim off of it, this is how I do it every spring.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tQ2Tp3u_f8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tQ2Tp3u_f8
Is the Storm Trooper right hand drive?
#29
11-05-2010, 09:25 PM
Baja
#30
11-23-2010, 01:14 PM
Three Wheeling
OK, so one more thought on tires....
You all know (or all should know) that as you get wider, they start calling the tires "Floatation Tires" -- almost all the giant SuperSwampers and such you see on "monster trucks" made by the do it yourself Budwiser-and-bailing-wire guys are in that category.
When you read up, you realize that the goal is to reduce the pounds per square inch so that you can ride over the top of mud, and that this was originally an agricultural practice (which makes sense if you think about it).
The problems arise when you start putting tires on that are not QUITE wide enough to float your vehicle, but too wide to let you get any "bite".
I just put a set of 225/60-18s X-Ice on my D2, and it's awesome. The fact that the tires are about an inch narrower means I have more PSI on the footprint and that I get a LOT better bite, and my speedo is only off 1.5% (which it probably is anyway).
After the fact I recalled this discussion when I built up my Defender. Doug Shipman encouraged me to get 235's instead of going wider for just that reason, and it proved to be super advice no matter the weather or terrain I was assaulting.
Just thought I'd share with you guys.
You all know (or all should know) that as you get wider, they start calling the tires "Floatation Tires" -- almost all the giant SuperSwampers and such you see on "monster trucks" made by the do it yourself Budwiser-and-bailing-wire guys are in that category.
When you read up, you realize that the goal is to reduce the pounds per square inch so that you can ride over the top of mud, and that this was originally an agricultural practice (which makes sense if you think about it).
The problems arise when you start putting tires on that are not QUITE wide enough to float your vehicle, but too wide to let you get any "bite".
I just put a set of 225/60-18s X-Ice on my D2, and it's awesome. The fact that the tires are about an inch narrower means I have more PSI on the footprint and that I get a LOT better bite, and my speedo is only off 1.5% (which it probably is anyway).
After the fact I recalled this discussion when I built up my Defender. Doug Shipman encouraged me to get 235's instead of going wider for just that reason, and it proved to be super advice no matter the weather or terrain I was assaulting.
Just thought I'd share with you guys.