There's less clearance than I thought... and the 36mm wrench in the kit I rented is *decidedly* too large. Apparently, it's a 32mm. Luckily I'm not out anything on the rental; thank you Advance. And they have a Ford kit that's got a smaller wrench.

 

A 32mm bolt, we've had slight disagreements here whether the fan had a 36mm or 32mm nut on it. I know mine is 36mm (see the pics of the wrench in my how-to link) but I would not doubt it if there are 32mm nuts either as some have sworn theirs is that size. Anywho the Ford kit should should do.

 

You're gonna love this.

Yes, the nut is a 36mm.

*The 36mm wrench* in the rental kit was not a 36mm; we put a caliper on it; it was 40mm. *Even though it was stamped 36mm*.

Nobody at the store has an effing clue how that happened.

The Ford wrench which they had *one* of left is about 4mm smaller; I bought it.

 

That is funny stuff, glad you got it sorted out.

 

Well, mostly. The Ford wrench I got is a bit loose as well.

I'm gonna shoot a crapload of Blaster in there tomorrow after I get home from work, and hopefully in the ensuing 24 hours, it will loosen things enough that when I get the parts back in on Tuedsay night, I'll be able to get it apart without benefit of hammer.

 

I'm telling you the Northern Tool wrench is the bomb, it's huge but thin enough and for $12 bucks, how can you go wrong?

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...2595_200322595

 

Mostly, I can go wrong cause I didn't have the spare money or time, for reasons I don't want to go into.

I got the Ford wrench at Advance, and it fit, and $MUMBLE's idea to use a stilson wrench to lock the pulley work ok, though getting the wrench in there was nearly impossible, and getting it out was worse. I locked the pulley against the wrench with a tire iron, and then banged the nut 3 or 4 times, and it came loose.

It's not really on there tight, and given the rotation and threading, it doesn't need to be -- which implies that getting it back on will be even easier, as you don't really need to torque it -- it's working against the engine turn to thread on.

So I got the pump off, by hanging it from the A/C compressor pipe with a piece of clothesline while I worked the hose clamp loose -- and apparently didn't break the cockamamie plastic thermostat housing in the process -- and we're cleaning the gasket seat now.

I bought an extra gasket, just in case I screwed up. ;-)

Kudos, BTW, to Rovahfarm; Trevor got the parts out to me sweet and sharp on Monday morning, and UPS -- mirabile visu! -- *delivered them a day early*. 2-day shipping, Tuesday 3pm instead of Wednesday at 7. Go Brown!

So I'll be installing the new pump shortly. Pics to follow.

 

Use some permatex thread sealer where it says to on the Rave CD and also it helps to use the purple permatex gasket sealer/sticky stuff to stick the gasket on the pump so it does not move out of place.

 

Ok; I got the threadlocker on there, but they didn't have the purple Permatex; I did manage to get the gasket to stay in place by dint of putting all the short 10mm bolts in first, putting gasket over the shafts, adding thread lock, then installing, catching the first bolt I could, 2 clean threads in, then pivot.

I found out that *you have to* aim the nozzle into the hose as you drop it in; the hose will not retract enough to clear otherwise, so I hope you backed the hoseclamp off far enough on your removal. :-)

Got the rest of the short bolts in, didn't bang into the gasket once.

Then we put in the long bolts; they apparently are much finer precision seatings, because they were finickier to start, and slightly harder to thread in. That is probably also partially the threadlocker.

I'm quite certain they weren't cross-threaded, though. I told my buddy Dennis "I will thread all the bolts. If someone trashes my block, it won't be you. :-)"

Now it's time to estimate 18lb-ft. :-)

 

Meant to say this thread instead of post in title.

Guys, I used this post to complete the same job. Thanks for saving me $400. The AutoZone tools worked great even though the 42mm was too big, it caught. I spent three hours the previous day trying to work with a normal 2" adjustable wrench with no result in getting that fan off. Ten minutes with the tool and a nice bang with the hammer to losen.

Watch out for that gap between the radiator I spent an extra 30 min retrieving that tool with a coat hanger and a kite stick after it fell in.

The advice that I didn't notice in the thread was that replacing the gasket was probably the hardest part. Again I probably had the wrong tool. I used a flat head screwdriver, which took an hour an a half to scrape clean. A wire tip drill bit and drill would probably work much better. I also heard that the gasket sealer on top of the old one would reseal the part if the original doesn't break.

For other aspiring do it yourselfers, I suggest that you consider replacing the idler pulleys if that appear bent, which mine was from the fan running wobbly from the bad water pump. $24 after market part on-line.

Thanks again