I have 3 D2's 2 on stock rotors/pads, and one with slotted/drilled and ceramic pads. Without a doubt the slotted/drilled and ceramic pads beat the OEM setup. I have less brake fade, excellent stopping power, and next to nothing for brake dust. I've also personally used an IR temp gun and the rotors are cooler vs my D2's with standard rotors. OEM stuff leaves a TON of brake dust, and after heavy use (towing for example) I have experienced a bit of fade. Choice is yours but I've got nothing to complain about with my slotted/drilled/ceramic pad setup.

Main thing is to power bleed the ABS modulator and yes using HDC works, but it isn't nearly as effective as using a scantool or by jumping the ABS modulator relay and power bleeding it with a wire lead/toggle switch.

 

Well maybe you do but, hop on any performance car forum and look the topic up. Pads make all the difference, slotted may give a little* more bite but they do more dmg than good once they're heated. You could go with a better brake compound rather than the slotted setup. Your brake fade will 100% be worse as the pads will be hotter. It's physics. Your rotors are coolor for sure because your PADS are HOTTER which is the problem. Many years back when brakes created more gas under heat slotted and drilled was a bigger thing but again that's not a D2 issue with todays tech. Honestly, just search the topic a bit. In the case of the D2, the performance is so darn low that you might be very well right about which has the best braking power right now but it might not be for the reasons you're assuming em to be, that's my point. Your local brake rep will give ya the same speech. Again, not doubting your story just that there might be underlying info that we aren't seeing. Perhaps your ceramic pads are the component that's doing the heavy lifting? This topic on performance forums has gone over 10000000x.

<Edit> If you're comparing off-road performance, especially mud, yes mud doesn't create good braking and in that case slotted is very useful in cleaning the pad surface and correcting braking surface.

Happen to recall what ceramic pads you're running? I'll have to do my pads soon and I've yet to shop around for the D2, if yours are working well, especially with towing, I'd give them a go.

 

As for the ABS, Why???? I don't have a scantool to do this with, figure I'm missing out perhaps or is it just going to be more of a hassle for me? I know nothing at all of the D2 ABS system right now.

 

Use the wire lead & toggle switch method by jumping the ABS relay pins in the fuse block if you want the ABS Modulator to run. No need for the fancy scantool, just 15-20ft pair of wire and a toggle switch will allow you to bleed the modulator. Before I had a $$$ scantool that is what I used. I still carry it today in my trail repair box as it’s so easy.

I believe my brake pads were Z16 compound pads, it’s been so long I honestly can’t remember.

 

Understood! Thank ya sir on both counts!

 

No problem!

 

I do not have any of those tools at home. So then, how much would a shop charge me for this??

 

A lot more than 5.00 worth of wire from a hardware store & a toggle switch. Probably 120.00 minimum plus brake fluid and special diagnostic tool use (some shops charge for that plus the actual labor).

 

Said no professional race team ever.
Your S2K has poor brake cooling so is a poor example to make this analogy.

Slotted and drilled rotors are run all over the world by thousands of DD's and race teams without issue. Its hardly a debatable topic except maybe in the case of your specific application and maybe poor choice of rotor brands.

*https://www.powerstop.com/drilled-vs...hat-is-better/

 

Poor info is really a bummer to see posted, info such as you're spouting here. Posting your own experience would be honest and fine but your words here come from no backing. In an effort to combat this. I can send you to many teams including Monster Energy truck racing champions.... long time buddies of mine who I've been on the team with or plenty of street teams from karting to street vehicle teams who will say otherwise but whatever you wish to believe. Before you start with "said no race team ever", might be worth actually being on real race teams. Just my thought, more importantly, not to spread miss-information throughout a good forum for the next guy to stumble across and make more choices of components because some guy on the internet said to.

You could turn to EBC brake company's US rep of some 20+yrs Garry G. who I've known since I was 10 years old and ask his opinion but what would he know right? The list goes on but for god's sake my man, please understand, race teams have very different needs than street vehicles and sponsored vehicles run very different equipment than teams looking for the same laptimes but without the deep pockets $.

My s2k just so happened to be the test platform for willwood's big brake kit for S2Ks, random eh?
The S2K doesn't suffer from brake cooling, not in stock form anyway. With 786whp it did need an upgrade but when you mulitiply stock hp by FOUR I think that's a lot to ask of stock brakes. My S2K has ducting I designed for it and does not have poor cooling and when it was new and stock it still didn't until as I stated I upped the HP and THAT is why it's an EXCELLENT example here for these analogies. Unlike the D2 that will rarely push pads to the limit, I can push a car on the race coarse and induce brake fade in just two laps if I wish to. The biggest bennefit to going to the Willwood BBK kit for the car is actually the cheap cost of rotors and brake pads. I could spend a couple hundred bucks on a front set of Project Mu racing pads and an expensive rotor to match or for a fraction of even stock factory pads, I can replace my Willwood stuff, go figure it's cheaper!

I already pointed out that out-gassing is no longer much thing with today's technology, the days of asbestos are long behind us. There's perhaps some mud-clearing advantages which the D2 might encounter but you won't find drilled rotors on the truck teams

Slotted and drilled rotors are ran all over by teams who can afford to replace them every race day. I've ran them too and with unlimited money I still would for the weight savings and for no other reason. We've done extensive testing and the laugh of laughs was that cheap blanks performed as good as the very expensive rotors. Crossdrilled is mostly a thing of the past beyond looks or in some extreme weight savings. Slotted rotors I'm not strongly opposed to but for all reasonable uses on the street in an SUV, it's more for looks than anything else.

Powerstop link is a laugh...... seriously. Junk anyway, pawning their walmart quality car equipment.

Please read the much less biased link below:
https://www.good-guys.com/hotnews/tr...-brake-rotors/

Further opinions even while motivated to sell expensive rotors.... still say the same.
https://www.r1concepts.com/blog/how-...-slotted-only/

Call up willwood right now or brembo and ask for trackside performance advice.... see what they tell you.

Please state what race team you've been affiliated with and I'll list my involvement. I mean if you want to see who pisses further. lol Sometimes it's fun. Or better yet, just read up a little more and you'll find out that I'm not giving you bad advice nor biased advice, just real world experience. I've got more sets of fancy brakes and rotors in my garage than I know what to do with honestly and in the years they've been ran, we've found these facts expressed to hold true.

-Greg