Now from personal experience and working on LR's I will say this. LR3's are famous for wearing thru their brakes quickly due to the LR3 being such a heavy vehicle with smaller brakes especially as a D/D in heavy stop n go traffic (LR4's and newer RRS all went with larger rotors from 2010 & up to help with this). With that being said I bought an 06 LR3 a few years ago, and it's OEM brakes were completely trashed (vehicle was only serviced at the local LR Dealership). Warped rotor's with huge lips on every rotor and pads that were almost completely down to the backing plates. I ordered some Cross Drilled/Slotted replacements with ceramic pads. It's my wife's D/D and we've put nearly 40K on it since purchasing it. The rotors still look brand new after nearly 40K and the pads are still at 65% on the front and 80% on the rear. I also no longer have wheels coated in thick thick thick brake dust!!!

My friends that own a LR shop in Austin also agree that Cross Drilled/Slotted are lasting a lot longer on LR3/RRS vs the OEM stuff. It was the same story when I owned a P38 back in the day. Funny part is I looked up the brand that went onto the LR3 and it's Brake Motive/Power Stop equipment. Nearly 40K on that setup on the 06 LR3 and absolutely zero complaints It cost me $265.00 for everything at the time and that is about $400.00 less than the comparable EBC setup. 40-50K is usually the point of no return for the OEM rotors/pads on an LR3 if your lucky, but I am sitting at right at 40K and they look barely broken in.

I've never owned a sports car and I honestly have no plans to ever do so, but from all my LR experience Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors do make a difference along with Ceramic Brake Pads on our heavier LR's from the D2/P38 to 05-09 LR3/RRS.

Now as far as the cross drilled rotor's getting clogged during serious off roading. I have gone thru some nasty mud and afterwards I did indeed have mud caked into some of the cross drilled holes. It took me about 5-10min to poke a small drill bit thru all the holes and call it a day. I also DO NOT run any of my D2's with the dust shields so access to the rotors = a breeze. In all the years of wheeling Jeeps & LR's I haven't damaged a single rotor yet after removing the dust shields.

 

I'll just leave this here

 

Impressive! That's pretty hard to argue with. I get very good pricing on EBC but with the mileage you're talking about getting, it's hard to side against because it's certainly nice to not have to do the labor if nothing else right?

ON TOPIC TO ORIGINAL POST:
1.Bleed your brakes, that's where 95% of spongyness comes from in brake setups, air/water/dirt in the lines. Remember, once you open a brake fluid container, the fluid starts absorbing water when exposed to air. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and that means you'll have water in your lines even if you bleed them and use fluid that's been left out.

2.Forget about fancy rotors, they may work fine, they probably don't apply to your needs, slotted is fine usually, as is dimpled but I'd skip the cross-drilled route, honestly a waste of money for the most part and they are prone to cracking, spend your cash on good pads first and foremost. There's some gains to be had in certain circumstances sure but step one is probably where you're complaints are coming from honestly. If you feel you need more power, sure, look into some further options from there.

These two things will solve your issue I'm confident.

 

Interesting - its not hard to find that GT1, GT2 and LMP1 cars all use some sort of slot or drilled rotors.
Porsche, Ferrari etc come this way both being highly over-engineered street going race cars. Cant imagine these guys do it just for looks

 

Drilled/Slotted/Dimpled, it's important to know the difference before calling them the same thing. They each have some pros/cons.

Actually, what you'll notice is in most cases they're just dimpled or they're of much more quality than a simple slotted rotor, you'll see that the edge is carefully rounded so they don't crack so easily. This is because they're aware of the FACT that cross-drilled rotors are very prone to cracking as are slotted rotors but to a lesser degree. Actually you'll note on better drilled rotors, there's a rounded edge (chamfered) as well for this same reason but as noted by any google search, many have turned away from drilling rotors and run dimples and such instead in many elaborate variations, AP has a interesting looking one. My own rotors are done this way on my S2K Willwood BBK both slotted and drilled currently but I don't suspect most folks are interested in a spending over $3000 on a Disco brake system but hey, perhaps you're just the guy to. On the Big break kit they don't seem to crack early before they're fairly worn, though that's expected since the kit is quite over-sized compared to the stock size rotors and calipers. When I first ran stock calipers with drilled rotors they cracked the first day, the next day as well and the slotted rotors fared a little better but showed hairline fracture along the slot that looked like it would cause a dangerous and catastrophic failure, still either way I change my rotors quite often as they separate from the hat area unlike a common vehicle. The entire community realized a long while back that bang for the buck, just run blanks. I personally have never seen a dimple be the obvious cause of a crack, unlike drilled holes and slots on lesser occasion.

In the very best of the best you'll find for example Ferrari F1 rotors that are simple blanks. However, using P1 cars or F1 cars etc would be a silly comparison with a common SUV, it would take a downright foolish individual to do so.

You're probably thoroughly familiar with grabbing the binders at 150mph into a corner and experiencing glazing on the pad surface, in some cases slotted rotors can help with this, as you're aware of I'm sure.

Were you going to elaborate on YOUR experience with various braking systems?? The internet can be a tricky place full of incorrect info. I was wondering what actual contributions of helpful info and experience you were waiting to apply to this thread......