I have blown speakers. They just rattle/buzz when I play certain songs.

[QUOTE=KindaGuitarded;371735]like MChang said. Buy a wiring hardness designed for your Disco. In my case (a 2003 with the factory Harmon Kardon) Connect all the color corresponding wires to the back of the new head unit you purchase (it will have two blue wires if it's designed for the Harmon Kardon unit one remote power for the factory amp, and one remote power for your aftermarket subwoofer amp). You will also need to purchase an amplifier install kit which will consist of a power cable from your battery to the amp, a ground cable, a remote amp cutoff cable(blue small gauge wire)RCA cables(for your audio signal) and associated connectors



To run an after market sub/ amp setup in the back of your truck you'll need to run RCA and remote amp cutoff wire(blue) from your head unit to the back of your truck and a red power wire from your battery. I run the RCA and amp remote wire under the dash, glovebox (not the cleanest looking install, just the easiest for me), and down under the passenger side front and rear door sills. Accomplish this by just gentle snapping the sills upwards running your wires under it.

Thanks for all this information about how you installed yours. I like the idea of putting a separate bigger sub in the back. Perhaps I could custom build one so it fit in to one of those side pockets (don't have 7 seats)? I'm sure it wouldn't be to build a box.... Anything special about it? Looks to be covered in indoor/outdoor carpet... What about the inside?
I've thought about putting an aftermarket radio in, A) I like the stock look (odd right?) B ) I haven't found a good one that would go with the dash and not look to flashy/out of place. I do want to get a touch screen one/ one that has a big screen like you have.
**Went to best buy today but there system was down. I'll try back tomorrow.

 

You can run an aftermarket amp and sub to a factory stereo, You'll still want to remove your factory head unit and tap into the blue factory amp remote cutoff wire. This gives your aftermarket amplifier a signal to shut off when the stereo shuts off or when the ignition shuts off thus preventing your battery from draining. You'll also need a line convertor that taps into your factory audio signal from a speaker and converts it to an RCA output for the amplifier. The easiest signal to tap would most likely be the signal that runs to your rear door for your factory subs.

 

The factory amp has the crossovers in it. From what I can tell, the signal is split then amplified, so the factory amp actually has many amp circuits in it. The front 6 1/2's are for bass only just like the rear subs. The front door mids and A-pillar tweets are wired as one speaker. The rear door 6 1/2's and tweets are wired as one speaker with a capacitor used as a crossover just like any 2-way speaker.

On my truck, I used a pair of Pioneer 2-ways that I bought off Amazon for under $30 to replace the factory 6 1/2's. I just snipped the wires to the tweeters before I installed them. That made a huge difference in the sound. I have an aftermarket head unit so I fed the subwoofer output to a seperate amp to power the subs in the rear door.

Guitarded - I hope you have a fuse on the power supply to your amp. I would caution against running the wiring the way you did because it will see repeated flexing and pinching when the door is used. On mine, I ran the wire through the rubber boot where the factory harness comes through the firewall on the passenger side. Just poke a small hole through the boot and feed the wire through, then add a little sealer for good measure. The wire will come in just behind the blower motor. It makes for a much cleaner and more durable solution. I'll try to snap a picture and post it if I get a chance. Also, make sure you have a fuse right where the wire comes off the battery. Most install kits include one, but just in case it doesn't put one in.

 

The install kit included an inline fuse. And where i have it coming in at the bottom of the door, the weather seal cushions the wire when the door closes. however i'd like to see a pic of where you have yours snaking in. When i looked down the firewall for a place to put the power wire through i didn't see anything that i felt comfortable drilling.

 

I'll try to get a picture tonight. I did the same basic thing on the driver's side to run the wires in for the oil pressure and temp gauges I added. Here's a crappy picture I have showing where those wires go through. The clean wire covering leads down to where I fed the sender wires through. There are rubber boots mounted to the firewall where the wiring harnesses come through from the cabin to the engine compartment. I slid a philips crew driver up along the harness and then poked through the rubber boot, then slid through a piece of coat hnger with the amp wire taped to it. The hole in the boot fits pretty tightly around the wire, but I added a little RTV just to make myself feel better.

 

Do you have the secondary air canisters on that side? My passenger side firewall doesn't look like that.

 

That picture is on the Driver's side where I ran the sender wires. I did the same basic thing with the amp wire, only on the passenger side. I do have SAI, but it worked no problem. I will try to get a picture tonight of the amp wire on the passenger side to show you.

By the way, another nice feature of having a huge gauge wire in the passenger compartment connected directly to the battery is you have a great source for a 12 volt accessory socket that is always powered. Cuts down on the yelling when I shut the truck off on long trips to fill the tank while the kids are watching a dvd.

 

Here's a few pictures of how I ran the amp feed. It still needs a few zip ties but it's pretty much there.

 

This link is useful:
1999-2001 Land Rover Discovery with Harmon Kardon Wiring Information

 

This thread is almost 2 and a half years old.

Oh well, since it's been brought back I would like to note that you should never run your stereo power wires, or any other wires, outside the vehicle and back in. It exposes them to the elements and to standard wear and tear from things moving such as the doors opening and closing which could eventually lead to wearing through the wire insulation causing a fire hazard.

The correct way to run your wires, and the safe way is to run them through one of the rubber grommets in the fire wall.

Also, never buy car audio at walmart or best buy. Try to find an individually owned car audio shop locally who will hook you up with some better equipment in your price range and install for you for a usually reasonable price, or if you would rather do the install yourself then crutchfield is a great source for parts. Call them on the phone and they will hook you up, they've always been very helpful when I've talked to them.