SRC jeep bumpers on and DII
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 98
Likes: 2
From: Bayonne, NJ
Can someone please post a picture of the originals (oem) bumpers mounted and the off-road (safary) that LR offered, if it's stronger then all the negative talk will be done if its stringer then you may have a valid poinT. I can't give my opinion on safety, however, I'm a AWS Certified welder and without seeing in person and inspecting it I can't give "my opinion", it does looks good
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 211
From: dallas texas
Weld is not in question
If there is anything that is worth over engineering it's stuff like this
Saddle the frame as far back as possible with 1/4" or better. 3 or 4 through bolts per side, to sandwich the frame with your saddle.
It took me longer to make my mounting brackets than it did for me to make my bumper.
If there is anything that is worth over engineering it's stuff like this
Saddle the frame as far back as possible with 1/4" or better. 3 or 4 through bolts per side, to sandwich the frame with your saddle.
It took me longer to make my mounting brackets than it did for me to make my bumper.
So, how thick of a pipe would you have to use to weld up your own tubular bumper? I mean, most of these you see don't look that thick, about the thickness of a high quality steel exhaust pipe. Some cheaper tubular bumpers (even with winch mounts) that I've seen are even more thin than that. Could you weld one up out of a thick high quality exhaust pipe and paint it?
Using that thin tube since it's not really structural will be fine as long as you never hit anything. I would not recommend it however. Remember off road clipping a tree or rock with the corner of the bumper is not that uncommon. Hitting it on the corner if it is thin wall and unsupported will bend that back into the tire/body/whatever causing damage.
Weld is not in question
If there is anything that is worth over engineering it's stuff like this
Saddle the frame as far back as possible with 1/4" or better. 3 or 4 through bolts per side, to sandwich the frame with your saddle.
It took me longer to make my mounting brackets than it did for me to make my bumper.
If there is anything that is worth over engineering it's stuff like this
Saddle the frame as far back as possible with 1/4" or better. 3 or 4 through bolts per side, to sandwich the frame with your saddle.
It took me longer to make my mounting brackets than it did for me to make my bumper.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,743
Likes: 985
From: Southwestern Virginia
The tube portion isn't the part you need to worry about as much. It's the winch mount and bumper mount that are more critical. Also make sure that any recovery points are tied in where there is strength, like at the winch mount or bumper mount area. Bolt in is fine with the proper backing plate etc for the recovery points.
Using that thin tube since it's not really structural will be fine as long as you never hit anything. I would not recommend it however. Remember off road clipping a tree or rock with the corner of the bumper is not that uncommon. Hitting it on the corner if it is thin wall and unsupported will bend that back into the tire/body/whatever causing damage.
Using that thin tube since it's not really structural will be fine as long as you never hit anything. I would not recommend it however. Remember off road clipping a tree or rock with the corner of the bumper is not that uncommon. Hitting it on the corner if it is thin wall and unsupported will bend that back into the tire/body/whatever causing damage.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 59
Likes: 1
You are adding extra bolt holes? Also, swak6287 says grade 5 or 8, I disagree I would only use grade 8, the price difference for just a few of them wouldn't be that much and it is completely worth it. A grade 5 bolt will begin to yield earlier and completely fail before a grade 8 bolt even beings to deform.
