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Began having the “no starter” issue with my 2004. After checking the battery terminals and leads on the Solenoid I narrowed it down to the positive cable. If the vehicle is in the “no start” mode and I pull on the positive cable coming from the battery down by the engine block it will start. So the obvious is to replace the cable but was looking for some input before I start replacing stuff. Also anyone have a part number for a replacement positive cable with the heat insulation?
Just what do you mean when you say you pull on the positive cable? Did you clean the connector where the pos cable attaches to the starter? That was the problem with my first car, a '65 Mustang, a few decades ago. There was no visibly apparent problem with the connector, but I removed it, roughed up the surfaces and reconnected it. Problem solved.
Just what do you mean when you say you pull on the positive cable? Did you clean the connector where the pos cable attaches to the starter? That was the problem with my first car, a '65 Mustang, a few decades ago. There was no visibly apparent problem with the connector, but I removed it, roughed up the surfaces and reconnected it. Problem solved.
I basically reached down into the engine compartment and “fiddled” with the positive cable starting close to the battery. It would start when I manipulated the cable closer to starter. I plan on removing the cable and cleaning up and look for any issues as a first step
I had a similar issue. What I found to fix my issue was the positive end that connects onto the battery. The connection was just not tight enough. After I was able to squeeze together the connection before putting it on it was tight enough. I needed to tap it down with a hammer to get it on the battery posts. This made the connection much tighter after tightening the bolt. The issue went away after.
... The connection was just not tight enough. After I was able to squeeze together the connection before putting it on it was tight enough. I needed to tap it down with a hammer to get it on the battery posts. This made the connection much tighter after tightening the bolt. ...
The factory battery terminals are notorious for being difficult or impossible to tighten enough. I used to use a shim between the post and terminal (for a while, a toothpick) and that worked pretty well, but like keninnc, I more recently squeezed the terminals (while off the battery posts) with my Vise Grips, just enough to deform them a little. That worked well, and I also use a hammer to gently persuade them to stay put.
In fact, the more I think about it, I've never heard of the cable itself needing to be replaced. I don't know what gauge the cable is, but it's pretty robust. Clean up and double check the terminals and let us know what happens.
Decided to replace the dual Positive terminal to the battery. Waiting for it to come in. In the meantime I cut the old one off the two positive leads. Well I’m hoping I found the problem. The corrosion extended about an inch into the casings on both wires. I’m surprised it ever started at all. Figure this might help someone else out. Just because the terminal looks clean and tight the issue may extend into the wire casing.