Need help, negative battery cable
#1
Need help, negative battery cable
Hi, I own a 2003 Disco, I went off-roading the other day and I noticed that my battery negative cable had come unfasten, now there is a short on my hand brake cable bolt when I try to turn the ignition and the battery seems weak. Where does the cable bolts to? any help would be appreciated.
karover
karover
#2
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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I have a 97 DI, so mine may be slightly different. However, look inside the passenger side wheel well area, pull that wheel for improved access. I did.
My battery cable connection to the frame was severely corroded as well as an old battery and corroded negative starter connection. I replaced battery, cut the old negative cable, purchased a new 4 foot one from Pep Boys for a round 10 bucks.
I put a large deburring bit in my power drill and abraded an area of the frame down to bare metal. Drilled a pilot hole and installed the new cable with a self-drilling bolt from Lowe's. Problem solved. Cranks right up now with new grounds for battery and starter. Coated the area with brake caliper grease or never-seize, I don't remember which. Pics below are the starter connection I redid. Battery connection is slightly forward in the same area. The extra legth allowed me to improve the routing of the cable.
Good luck.
My battery cable connection to the frame was severely corroded as well as an old battery and corroded negative starter connection. I replaced battery, cut the old negative cable, purchased a new 4 foot one from Pep Boys for a round 10 bucks.
I put a large deburring bit in my power drill and abraded an area of the frame down to bare metal. Drilled a pilot hole and installed the new cable with a self-drilling bolt from Lowe's. Problem solved. Cranks right up now with new grounds for battery and starter. Coated the area with brake caliper grease or never-seize, I don't remember which. Pics below are the starter connection I redid. Battery connection is slightly forward in the same area. The extra legth allowed me to improve the routing of the cable.
Good luck.
#3
There are two connections. The cable from the battery attaches to the chassis side rail about a foot or so back from the front end. About 10" from the battery a smaller cable runs off the larger one and attaches to the inner wing.
I make my own cables and usually replace whats there whenever I buy a Rover as they are usually very poorly maintained.
I use quality welding cable (more flexible and easier to route), seal the ends of the terminals with moisture seal heat shrink tubing and use mil-spec battery clamps.
The '97 I just bought I ran a separate smaller ground from the battery to the body.
Then I run the new starter ground from the starter to the same bolt used for the battery ground. On the ground points I use bronze star washers to ensure a good contact.
I make my own cables and usually replace whats there whenever I buy a Rover as they are usually very poorly maintained.
I use quality welding cable (more flexible and easier to route), seal the ends of the terminals with moisture seal heat shrink tubing and use mil-spec battery clamps.
The '97 I just bought I ran a separate smaller ground from the battery to the body.
Then I run the new starter ground from the starter to the same bolt used for the battery ground. On the ground points I use bronze star washers to ensure a good contact.
Last edited by antichrist; 05-27-2010 at 08:16 AM.
#4
need help, negative battery cable
I have a 97 DI, so mine may be slightly different. However, look inside the passenger side wheel well area, pull that wheel for improved access. I did.
My battery cable connection to the frame was severely corroded as well as an old battery and corroded negative starter connection. I replaced battery, cut the old negative cable, purchased a new 4 foot one from Pep Boys for a round 10 bucks.
I put a large deburring bit in my power drill and abraded an area of the frame down to bare metal. Drilled a pilot hole and installed the new cable with a self-drilling bolt from Lowe's. Problem solved. Cranks right up now with new grounds for battery and starter. Coated the area with brake caliper grease or never-seize, I don't remember which. Pics below are the starter connection I redid. Battery connection is slightly forward in the same area. The extra legth allowed me to improve the routing of the cable.
Good luck.
My battery cable connection to the frame was severely corroded as well as an old battery and corroded negative starter connection. I replaced battery, cut the old negative cable, purchased a new 4 foot one from Pep Boys for a round 10 bucks.
I put a large deburring bit in my power drill and abraded an area of the frame down to bare metal. Drilled a pilot hole and installed the new cable with a self-drilling bolt from Lowe's. Problem solved. Cranks right up now with new grounds for battery and starter. Coated the area with brake caliper grease or never-seize, I don't remember which. Pics below are the starter connection I redid. Battery connection is slightly forward in the same area. The extra legth allowed me to improve the routing of the cable.
Good luck.
#5
cool
There are two connections. The cable from the battery attaches to the chassis side rail about a foot or so back from the front end. About 10" from the battery a smaller cable runs off the larger one and attaches to the inner wing.
I make my own cables and usually replace whats there whenever I buy a Rover as they are usually very poorly maintained.
I use quality welding cable (more flexible and easier to route), seal the ends of the terminals with moisture seal heat shrink tubing and use mil-spec battery clamps.
The '97 I just bought I ran a separate smaller ground from the battery to the body.
Then I run the new starter ground from the starter to the same bolt used for the battery ground. On the ground points I use bronze star washers to ensure a good contact.
I make my own cables and usually replace whats there whenever I buy a Rover as they are usually very poorly maintained.
I use quality welding cable (more flexible and easier to route), seal the ends of the terminals with moisture seal heat shrink tubing and use mil-spec battery clamps.
The '97 I just bought I ran a separate smaller ground from the battery to the body.
Then I run the new starter ground from the starter to the same bolt used for the battery ground. On the ground points I use bronze star washers to ensure a good contact.
Thanks Chris
#6
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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You are welcome. When I redid mine I ignored the smaller ground wire going to the body/inner wing... I don't know if that matters, it does not seem to have affected anything so far.
As I work on mine I try to be attentive to whatever ground connections I happen to come upon. Most of them are not in the best of shape, when I find one like that I go ahead and clean it up or redo it completely. Abrading the coating on the frame for the new ground point is also important for a good solid connection.
As I work on mine I try to be attentive to whatever ground connections I happen to come upon. Most of them are not in the best of shape, when I find one like that I go ahead and clean it up or redo it completely. Abrading the coating on the frame for the new ground point is also important for a good solid connection.
#7
However, corroded cables won't cause a drain. They cause a reduction of power to things. For instance, after replacing the starter and ground cables on the '97 I recently bought it cranks a lot better.
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