Yes I have an ultra gauge. Some times I get 13 codes, some times 3. P1884 seems the most consistent but i've now replaced the MAF with an OEM Bosch 3 times..

I don't care about throwing money at parts as I just rebuilt the engine 9k miles ago. The more new parts the better

I agree it's fuel related, I was hoping it was a computer issue but maybe I'll try the O2 sensors next as they were submerged for five days!

 

The latest:

 

P0102 is maf out of range, I believe. P0453 is the fuel tank pressure sensor circuit high. P1184 I'm not sure of. Most of the P1 codes are hard to get a good definition for in my experience.
Just a thought, is there a possibility that the purge valve is stuck open? That would apply vacuum to the fuel tank, robbing the engine of vacuum at low revs and would more than likely show a high voltage reading on the fuel tank pressure sensor when there shouldn't be.

I would also check an easy to get to sensor for a 5 volt reference. You can just unplug the throttle position sensor and check the wires there. One of them should have 5v on it. Either that or the MAF sensor, one of those should have 5v also. Just turn the key to the on position and test.

Also, on most vehicles, you can unplug the MAF sensor and the computer will apply substituted values. If that makes it run good, then it's probably something in the wiring for the MAF back to the computer. It's not likely that the MAF is bad if you've replaced it several times.

I just noticed that you have one of those wrong gear ratio codes too. Those are often related to incorrect MAF data.

 

Oh crap, I just won't go away! LOL!
One code in there makes me think you're getting enough fuel. The P1300 code is catalyst damaging misfire on more than one cylinder. Which means that your o2 sensors are reading too rich a mixture in the exhaust.

Which could possibly be caused by the purge valve stuck open because it will pull fuel vapors through the evap system and right into the intake. These extra fuel vapors, the computer won't know what to do with. It will continue to back off the fuel making it run terrible, especially at low rpm when the vacuum is the highest. Just a thought.

I'm really curious to find out what the problem is.

 

Just throwing this out... are you sure you have right plug wires to the right spots on your coils?

 

Great video for diag.
So if you don't goose the gas - it stalls?

YEP get a new IAC. Motor in the IAC probably got wasted in the river.

IAC should crank open the air before it hits stall.
Otherwise - well done!

Most vechicles after water enters them never run again.

 

You can pop those codes into http://enginecodemaster.com

Best..

 

It's on order.. As well as a couple O2 sensors. We'll see if that does the trick.

Here's where she sat for 5 days:




The air filter was saturated, I had to remove it and the lid, and unplug the MAF to limp 20 miles home keeping the RPM above 2k. If I unplug the MAF I don't see a difference now. Starts and stalls. Just for S**Ts and giggles, here's the Stuck video and the recovery video (it took a rock crawler to get me out):

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3alvp7mkm0...stuck.mov?dl=0

https://vimeo.com/127800135


"You know when you have a wake behind your truck your in some ****"

 

I actually took a silver sharpey and labeled the plugs when I did the upgrade. So yes, it's pretty easy to tell they are in the right spot.

 

Okay. I should have added: "because I've done that (put wires on wrong spot)". Glad that's excluded as a cause.