Starts then stalls
#23
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After I replaced the first correct Bosch MAF I was able to drive no problem, although it wasn't running quite right as I couldn't floor it. I did manage to run a full tank of fresh gas through the system, fill it up again and burnt about a quarter tank of that before things started get haywire. Limp mode, and the ultimate demise to no just started and stalling. I've replaced the fuel pump, I think the fuel system is the issue, I guess I'll try and replace the fuel rail.
#24
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If you suspect fuel delivery may be the cause of your problems, I would check the fuel pressure and make sure it's holding good pressure. I don't know if you have a pressure tester, but I got one a long time ago at Harbor Freight for about $20 and it works fine.
Not being able to floor it does point to a lack of fuel pressure. You may want to check the power and ground to the fuel pump.
Also, did you remove the hoses that connect the IAC to the manifold? There is a chance that the passages in there are full of gunk. That can make it run just as terrible. It basically makes the IAC useless because it's not regulating the airflow. I'm not sure about Rover's, but Ford's IAC passages LOVE to clog!
Not being able to floor it does point to a lack of fuel pressure. You may want to check the power and ground to the fuel pump.
Also, did you remove the hoses that connect the IAC to the manifold? There is a chance that the passages in there are full of gunk. That can make it run just as terrible. It basically makes the IAC useless because it's not regulating the airflow. I'm not sure about Rover's, but Ford's IAC passages LOVE to clog!
#26
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I would also check an easy to get to sensor for a 5 volt reference. You can just unplug the throttle position sensor and check the wires there. One of them should have 5v on it. Either that or the MAF sensor, one of those should have 5v also. Just turn the key to the on position and test.
#27
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#30
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