Steering Box replaced!
Hey guys,
I don't really post much as I am pretty savvy with the search function. I followed the DIY for the steering box on a LR4x4 site with a few steps being skipped here and there. All in all it was fairly easy and straight forward once I got the truck jacked up. 3 hours for the whole thing from start to finish and it was far easier than I thought mostly due to the fact I got a box with the Arm already attached.
If any of you guys are looking to do this and are a little intimidated, don't be. The hardest part was getting the box up on the frame since I did it by myself, but from there it was easy.
So thanks. Having this plentiful resource made it substantially easier.
Mike
I don't really post much as I am pretty savvy with the search function. I followed the DIY for the steering box on a LR4x4 site with a few steps being skipped here and there. All in all it was fairly easy and straight forward once I got the truck jacked up. 3 hours for the whole thing from start to finish and it was far easier than I thought mostly due to the fact I got a box with the Arm already attached.
If any of you guys are looking to do this and are a little intimidated, don't be. The hardest part was getting the box up on the frame since I did it by myself, but from there it was easy.
So thanks. Having this plentiful resource made it substantially easier.
Mike
That sounds great. Those things can leak bad. A buddy of mine just did his steering box and had a similar result. Its nice to know that there are other DIY-ers out there to help me if (and when) I will need to do mine.
If you get a refurbed without the drop arm attached, be prepared to spend an extra 3-4 hours getting if off the old box and onto the new one. I discovered a few things trying to replace mine-
Heat, heat, heat and more heat- Using a pipe wrench, 24" pipe/breaker bar over the handle, and a propane torch, i was able to get the nut off (30 minutes total), then using a torch, deadblow hammer and a puller I rented from Advance Auto, was able to get the arm off the spindle (30 minutes). I had the torch on the arm for over 10 minutes before it finally popped off. Make sure the puller is lined up perfectly, or the arm will come off at an angle, making it much harder to pop off.
Loosen the nut on the drop arm, but don't take it all the way off, otherwise the puller and arm may go flying when the arm finally pops off.
The intermediate shaft only needs to be disconnected where it attaches to the box. The RAVE tells you three places where you need to disconnect it, but its not necessary. One bolt holds it on, the other 2 can be left alone
The centralizing bolt can be just about any length. Its a 8mm, 1.25 pitch (M8/125) bolt available at any local hardware store.
Heat, heat, heat and more heat- Using a pipe wrench, 24" pipe/breaker bar over the handle, and a propane torch, i was able to get the nut off (30 minutes total), then using a torch, deadblow hammer and a puller I rented from Advance Auto, was able to get the arm off the spindle (30 minutes). I had the torch on the arm for over 10 minutes before it finally popped off. Make sure the puller is lined up perfectly, or the arm will come off at an angle, making it much harder to pop off.
Loosen the nut on the drop arm, but don't take it all the way off, otherwise the puller and arm may go flying when the arm finally pops off.
The intermediate shaft only needs to be disconnected where it attaches to the box. The RAVE tells you three places where you need to disconnect it, but its not necessary. One bolt holds it on, the other 2 can be left alone
The centralizing bolt can be just about any length. Its a 8mm, 1.25 pitch (M8/125) bolt available at any local hardware store.
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