Steering maintenance
Then someone did a poor job of balancing. I've got 265,275, and 285s that do not wobble.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 88
Likes: 45
I've had them balanced 3 times. Every time they came back fine. There's probably a bad bushing somewhere in the front end or something, but I've given up trying to solve the problem and just deal with it. At least 2 other people with D2's that I know of have this issue
I have had tires in the past with belts in the tires that are shifting. They would balance but lose balance. Every time they went back on the machine they would be imbalanced again. Does it make any difference is you swap end to end? Usually imbalanced tires don't feel as bad on the rear.
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 88
Likes: 45
I have had tires in the past with belts in the tires that are shifting. They would balance but lose balance. Every time they went back on the machine they would be imbalanced again. Does it make any difference is you swap end to end? Usually imbalanced tires don't feel as bad on the rear.
Haven't rotated them yet, I'll give it a whirl since I need to anyway. I don't have high hopes it'll fix it though.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 442
From: SE PA
I bought a truck with a set of Falken Wildpeak 265/60-18s, slightly oversized but semi-aggressive A/T class tires that were out of balance and the steering wheel shook pretty intensely at different speeds. After I had them balanced the truck wasn't much better so I replaced the steering stabilizer with another used one I had lying around. It improved immensely, but it still shook pretty good at highway speeds. I swapped them with a set of "known-good" stock 255/55-16s and all the vibration went away. I took the Falkens back in they said the same thing, the first balancing job was crap and they'd redo it. I haven't put them back on yet but what stood out to me was what an improvement a different (used) steering stabilizer made. Apart from high speed driving it all but eliminated the shaking, despite the tires being balanced incorrectly.
As a side note. I have 265/65-18 Duratracs on my daily that clock in at 80lbs each and there are no vibrations at any speed, braking or otherwise. The suspension in that truck has about 180k on it.
As a side note. I have 265/65-18 Duratracs on my daily that clock in at 80lbs each and there are no vibrations at any speed, braking or otherwise. The suspension in that truck has about 180k on it.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Steering is more than the power steering pump. Nothing about the PS pump would cause "It’s got a shake to it around 44 when I’m slowing down."
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the drag link and track bar. The drag link connects the pitman arm on the steering box to the steering knuckle on the opposite side of the truck. The steering stabilizer, which looks like a shock absorber, connects at one end to the drag link and at the other end to the frame. The track rod connects the two steering knuckles so the two wheels turn together. The drag link and track rod both have "ball joints" at each end (aka tie rod ends).
Here's a link to an Atlantic British video about the drag link and track rod.
On my truck, I was noticing looseness in the steering a few years ago. I inspected the drag link and track rod joints and found they were very loose.
It's easy to get under the front of your truck, grab and try to shake each end of the drag link and track rod,
That said, it may be that something else is triggering the shaking, and loose joints are allowing it to be felt more.
And BTW, the only wheel alignment that can be done on the DII is toe in/out. There are no adjustments for caster and camber. There is a lot of DIY information online, including vids, about how to check and adjust to.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the drag link and track bar. The drag link connects the pitman arm on the steering box to the steering knuckle on the opposite side of the truck. The steering stabilizer, which looks like a shock absorber, connects at one end to the drag link and at the other end to the frame. The track rod connects the two steering knuckles so the two wheels turn together. The drag link and track rod both have "ball joints" at each end (aka tie rod ends).
Here's a link to an Atlantic British video about the drag link and track rod.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1G0XvsUK8SY
On my truck, I was noticing looseness in the steering a few years ago. I inspected the drag link and track rod joints and found they were very loose.
It's easy to get under the front of your truck, grab and try to shake each end of the drag link and track rod,
That said, it may be that something else is triggering the shaking, and loose joints are allowing it to be felt more.
And BTW, the only wheel alignment that can be done on the DII is toe in/out. There are no adjustments for caster and camber. There is a lot of DIY information online, including vids, about how to check and adjust to.
I put a GoPro under the frame to see where my shake was coming from, and it looks like the ball-joint is exactly where the issue was. I replaced the dampener, thinking that must have been it, but it looks like fore-aft shake is actually the issue.
Here is the video:
Camel Trophy
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,884
Likes: 952
From: Charlotte
This is very informative, thank you.
I put a GoPro under the frame to see where my shake was coming from, and it looks like the ball-joint is exactly where the issue was. I replaced the dampener, thinking that must have been it, but it looks like fore-aft shake is actually the issue.
I put a GoPro under the frame to see where my shake was coming from, and it looks like the ball-joint is exactly where the issue was. I replaced the dampener, thinking that must have been it, but it looks like fore-aft shake is actually the issue.
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