I'm going to try to put the new "dealer" stat in tomorrow and see if that allows the heat to come back.

It appears as if no hot water is running into the heater core.

 

put in the 180 degree thermostat.

not the 190 dealer one

 

Deleting this thread and starting a new one. I'm in the process of doing the Head Gaskets.

Uhhg!!!

 

I'm back!!!

Since my last post:

I put in new head gaskets.

Car still overheats.

Car still has no heat.

Frustration builds!!!

List of new parts since it's been overheating:
Water Pump, Thermostat, Starter, Crankshaft Sensor, Coolant Temperature Control Sensor and flushed the Radiator and Heater Core and finally, Head Gasket Kit.

I have no Idea what the heck is wrong with it and i'm about to open the sunroofs, put some dirt in it and call it a flower pot.

Any Help would be great.

Matt

 

Congrats on the HG job! No heat is not fun in Chicago winter or spring, but overheating is the problem that is dangerous for your engine as I am sure you are aware. SO, it looks like you have been doing lots of homework and wrenching as well. With all the parts you have purchased, I would recommend purchasing the OBDII bluetooth transmitter device to add to your toolkit that works with the Android app "Torque", so you can see your engine temps more accurately. The device is $20 and the Android phone app is $5 or so. You can also read and clear ODBII codes. This is probably the cheapest way to monitor your temps. I have it and it works well, and can be moved to other vehicles easily.



In regard to what to do next, .. ummmmm... if the head gaskets are good now, and I have read through your parts replacement list and the other post in this thread, so here are my thoughts. No expert here, just another brain throwing some thoughts your way before you fill the D2 with dirt.

1) Coolant reservoir pressure cap may not be letting the system build up pressure; new cap is pretty cheap.
2) Check the routing of the fan belt. When I had a shop do my water pump they did not route the belt correctly and the water pump was running backwards, and failed shortly there after. When I replaced it again myself I noted the incorrect belt routing.
3) Viscous fan - does it come on? Does it move freely when the engine is cold? Again, no expert here, but the fan needs to be able to lock up and run when the temp begins to climb.
4) Not sure of the best device to measure temps on the radiator, and I know you flushed it, but checking the temps at the front top of the radiator compared to the front bottom of the radiator can tell you if things are flowing top to bottom once the engine is warm. A difference of around 10 degrees from top to bottom could tell you that the bottom is clogged with junk that settled there over time. Again not sure how this may or may not apply if you have flushed the radiator, but it is possible it flushed what was loose, and the remaining crude is not going to be removed by just flushing. You have a clean path top to bottom, but it may be a short cut and not taking advantage of all the fins that make up the radiator. ???
5) Have you confirmed the new t-stat is opening?

Nothing definitive here I know, but there you have it for my 2 cents!

 

Ah come on, that was at lest 5 cents worth! And it was good advice.

 

Overheats if cracked block allowing exhaust gas into coolant. Steam instead of coolant rises in the system and has almost all "hot air" inside the heater core, instead of hot water. If bubbles rushing thru pipe sounds under dash, would spring for the exhaust gas in coolant chemical test.

 

This is what they look like when I pulled the heads off last week. Cylinder 4 looks to have been 'steam cleaned'. I just learned this term after searching the forum for solutions.

 

Time to bring on the dirt?...

 

MattyMatters - you may also have learned that steam cleaned cylinders "inboard" can be a sign of a cracked block.