Hello,
I'm hoping I can get some help. I'm in a camp in Northern Alberta a long way away from civilization! I've been reading as much as I can, am mechanically adept (to a degree) but am short on time and hoping somebody can help me trouble shoot my problem.

1999 Discover 2. I've owned this vehicle since last spring. It's in excellent condition and was previously owned and maintained by TRS automotive in Calgary, Alberta.

It has been running really well up here in the bush until this morning. It started perfectly this morning and then quit after about 5 minutes of warm up time at idle. The heater core was plugged in overnight. It started with out a problem. The temperature was -15 celsius this morning.

It will turn over but will not start. The relay for the fuel pump clicks on when engaging the key. The fuse for the radiator fan is blown. I switched it with the rear window defog fuse. That did not make it start. I have tried pressing the inertia button down and visually inspected it's wires. No joy.

At this point I'm guessing that I need to check for spark. What is the best way to do that? I used a screw driver in a spark plug socket and cranked it while having that set on the manifold. The helper I grabbed said he did NOT see a spark. Is this a good way to check for spark? I used to do this on my old cars when I was a kid and it worked.

I have placed a battery boost on the battery as after a bit of cranking it was getting low. No joy.

I'm hoping that somebody out in the world is willing to walk me through some trouble shooting ideas.

Please and thank you!

 

This is a problem, being out in the middle of no where. Is your check engine light on, do you keep a scanner with you?
Only possible thought for now is a possible failing crank sensor that could shut of the ECU signal to the coil, the fuel pump or both and not let you start.

 

How much gas is in your tank?

 

I am going to second Mike's thought of the CPS or crank position sensor.

 

Can you jump out or bypass the cps switch to see if thats the problem?

Nevermind. After some quick reading on the operating parameters of the cps, it does not seem bypassing it will get you anywhere. The ecu relys on data from cps to properly time the engine.

 

Thank you for the replies. I had to shift some of the guys around and borrow a truck to get out to work today. Although I'm a little remote, I'm not destitute. I'm in a fairly large work camp. I can get things sent up. I'm trying to avoid a very, very large tow bill and more so trying to avoid using an unknown shop.

There are no lights on (except the battery light now, as I've drained it a bit trying to start it. there is a charger on the battery now).

I might get lucky with finding a scanner. There are a couple of heavy duty mechanics at another camp nearby.

I placed a screw driver into a spark plug lead and checked again for spark. There is no spark when I crank it. I will try to find an actual spark plug to use to check it. What is the best way to do this?

I found a blown fuse! 30 amp fuse for the radiator fan. I swapped that with the one for the back window defrost. Still nothing.

The gas tank is just over half full, and I've added some gas line antifreeze to the tank this morning. Gas in camp is notoriously crappy. It's also a regular grade octane. I have only filled up here once, and I added some STP octane boost to that tank. (it is STP OCTANE BOOSTER Made with Jet Fuel!--one container for 80 litres) I hope that wasn't a mistake.

How do I test the crank position sensor? I will scour the forums and try to figure it out for myself, but any help is much appreciated.

 

From the RAVE:
The CKP sensor is located towards the rear of the engine below cylinder number 7, with its tip adjacent to the outer circumference of the flywheel. The CKP sensor is the most important sensor on the vehicle and without its signal the engine will not run. The signal produced by the CKP sensor allows the ECM to determine crankshaft angle and speed of rotation. The ECM uses this information to calculate ignition timing and fuel injection timing.
The CKP sensor works as a variable reluctance sensor. It uses an electromagnet and a reluctor ring to generate a signal. As the reluctor ring passes the tip of the CKP sensor the magnetic field produced by the sensor is cut and then re-instated. The ECM measures the signal as an ac voltage.
The output voltage varies in proportion to engine speed. The reluctor ring has a set tooth pattern, 60 teeth are spaced at 6° intervals and are 3° wide, two teeth are removed to provide a reference mark at 60° BTDC for number 1 cylinder. There is no back up strategy or limp home facility if this sensor fails, the engine does not run.

 

Thank you. I had the shop manual and now I'm slowly (very slowly) downloading the RAVE.

 

Our Canadian neighbor,
Are you in the North West territories?

Take your truck into the heated garage that the mechanics use
and let the truck get to 40 degrees (10 C) or so.

Then it may start

For testing for spark, just get an old spark plug and put it in
and keep the end against ground.

You should see a spark if it is dark enough.

Make sure your battery is charged to top notch.
Your starter should spin fast.

And you should have 0-30W Mobil ! synthetic up there for faster spinning of start in the morning.

Conventional oil up there will kill your battery faster in the morning,

 

Here is the easy way to check the crank sensor, turn the key on, all dash lights come on including the check engine light, now crank the engine over and try to start it, the CEL should go out, release the key and the CEL comes back on.
IF the CEL does NOT go out while cranking the engine over then the crank position sensor is bad.