The CPS simple to replace, I did on my back with my fat fingers. I replaced ours just for insurance because I read somewhere they can leave you stranded.

 

Glad it was easy for you, it was a bear for me to seem so simple and only a couple small screws. I guess it depends on how well you flex

 

Mine was an absolute nightmare. what i thought would be a 10 minute job turned into several hours. including removing a cross member, the y-pipe, and still barley being able to fit my SKINNY hands up and around to reach it.

It was one of those jobs where you look at it and say "Ahh, that looks easy enough" In reality, I would have rather changed my plug wires by removing the IM again, then do this job again.

It SUCKS!.

When people say "Just reach around from the top"... no idea what the hell they are talking about, it is not even visible from the top. The worst part is getting the plug disconnected from the connector, then trying to get it plugged back in.

Maybe when people say "reach from the top", they don't have SAI, or they have there motor completely out?

It is a pain in the ***!

 

Here's some pages on the sensor. Best to plug new one in and let it hang down before mounting. Every nut and spacer must go back on exactly. Like Spike says, if the computer can't see the CKP pulses making 80 rpm or better, it doesn't do some other things. Like keep fuel pump running. Like make sparks.

 

Thanks again guys! I've finally got some time to check things out.

@Spike555
I tried your suggestion, but am a little confused. So I made a quick video of the dashboard while trying to start the Disco. Things are not what I expected. In the quick video there is also a shot from the engine compartment that depicts the sound of the engine trying to start. It seems to sputter a bit… I don't like the way the battery light seems to stay on. I charged the battery fully yesterday. I will put the meter on it and see what it says.


I will have an ODB2 sent up here asap, my quickest solution for product will be either

OBD II Code Reader | Canadian Tire

I have a choice between Canadian Tire and NAPA auto parts.

I'm not way up in NWT (thank goodness). I'm a couple of hours out of Fort McMurray in Northern Alberta.

I can see my CPS, it looks easily accessible. Until I get a code reader, I'm going to go outside and visually inspect what I can and clean up all the ground wires that I see. Any other suggestion for what I can do without a code reader?

Should I pop the fuel pump hatch and see if it's getting power? Can I put a meter on the CPS to tell if it's working?

 

How long have you had the truck?
Your check engine light and ABS lights do not come on, people break those bulbs so they can sell the truck to a unknowing buyer.
Hook up your scanner and I bet you find many many trouble codes.
The battery light will stay on until the alternator starts charging the battery.

 

I've had the truck since last March. I bought it from a reputable rover specific shop in Calgary, Alberta called TRS Automotive (formerly The Rover Shop until Land Rover complained). I certainly hope they wouldn't do something like that. I've been back for oil changes and bought tires from them and seem like decent people.

I think I've tracked down a scanner right here in camp. The guy is due back in 45 minutes. I'll be keeping my fingers crossed and hoping for the best!

 

I am quite busy at nights with my work. Tonight was no exception, but in the middle of it a guy came over with his scanner and Android phone. I don't know the model or make of the unit but I will find out when I see him sometime over the next couple of days.

He plugged it in and I turned on the Disco 2 and two codes came up.

P0440 and P1668. I'm exhausted and 5:45 come early (four hours and thirty minutes away) when I get to do this all again. I will have time in the day tomorrow for the Rover.

His android did not have rover codes, but one came up as exhaust something or other, and the other as ground short in injector 3.

Aww heck, who am I fooling. I'm going to look for the codes as soon as I finish typing this and hitting the post button!

 

P1668 Engine anti-theft signal circuit high - Serial link open circuit

P0440 Purge valve not sealing

The 0440 is related to emmissions, it won't keep truck from cranking.

The 1668 code is for a wiring problem between the ECU and the BCU. This could be keeping you from starting. The ECU and BCU have to exchange information or the truck will not run. These units are matched together by use of a shop level computer. If you have a remote, press the unlock button, or lock and unlock several time with the remote. Use of the remote forces the 70 bit security code to be exchanged between the BCU and ECU.

In your video the alarm light does not seem to be on, which is good, not immobilized.

From the RAVE:


stopped and the injectors are disabled. This also prevents unburnt fuel from entering the catalyst.

That signal appears on a wire between the ECU and BCU, light green with slate; BCU connector 661-10 to ECU connector 637-33. Hopefully you have not been cutting wires under the dash. I guess you could try turn key to position 2 and leave for 8 minutes (helps BCU resync with other modules, but not the ECU). May try the EKA code several times. Re-sync of a BCU and ECU that have had programming scrambled may take a dealer or shop level computer, perhaps a Hawkeye (some one will correct me); but certainly more than an OBDII code reader.

If you can eliminate the possibility that you have no spark, by attaching a plug or screw driver to a plug wire, and laying on the manifold, that would rule out the CKP. It will be easier to change the CKP than get the BCU and ECU reprogrammed.

 

Thanks Mr.Buzz! All the guys are out the door so I'm going to get a bit more coffee into me and try and figure this out. I just popped the key to position 2 and have 6 more minutes to go for the glory fix!