I was underneath the truck looking up at the CKP wondering how I was going get at that part and gently tugging the wires to check their connections when lead wire popped right off at the clip that the CKP wire connects with the wiring on the truck. It barely had any resistance. So I climbed up top of the engine and somehow wiggled one of my arms down there and one-handed the clip back together. It did not seem to 'click' into place and I can't really get a good grip on it.

I think it is connected, but not very well. I'm guessing that it should have a latch or clip holding it in place, so I'll try again to get it more secure.

I then tried starting the truck and got it to sputter and try to catch. It sputtered quite a bit, not like before where there was almost nothing but a quick sputter at the start of a crank and then nothing. I could smell gas.

But my battery is quite low and I'm out of juice. So I hooked my booster battery to that but it never got plugged back in and really has no cranking power to it either.

I've cranked this engine quite a bit in the last couple of days. I'm guessing it may be flooded and needs a bunch of cranking to clear it up. Hoping more than guessing. What is the best way to unflood the engine?

So now my battery is on the charge and the booster battery is too. Could it be that the connection just wiggled loose because it wasn't well secured in the first place? It is very hard to get to.

I'm going to the cantina for lunch. I'll start looking around for a skinny set of arms and hands and try and make that connection better.

 

It seems that the connection is not the problem. I'm actively looking for a part. NAPA doesn't have any in Canada. I'm trying to contact my shop back home. (TRS Automotive) and see what they can do for me.

I will try the lock de icer in the door lock…. and try the security code idea. I've never used the door lock before. Hopefully it's just iced up. I did do a car wash on a real cold day before heading into camp.

I downloaded the Rave manual, but am having a hard time using it. I got half of the tutorial to work, then it crashes. The full file did download.

I'm looking for specifics on removing the CPK.

Also, my battery seems to be finished. It charged up, claimed full charge in a number of hours but dropped down to 12.2 volts after a small bit of cranking. I will have another battery sent up also.

 

Forget the lock de-icer, WD-40, warm.
Keep a can of it in your cabin/apt/tent/whatever you oil guys live in up there inside the Arctic Circle, stick the straw into the lock and spray, it will melt the ice and displace the water and then keep it from freezing again.
If you ever wash it again and its going to freeze spray the lock/latch before it freezes.
Have you tried good old starting fluid?
I'm sure there's plenty around the big trucks or the camp store.
Rovers North - Land Rover Parts for Series, Defender, Range Rover, Discovery, LR2, LR3 and More woll shop to Canada.
Here it rained all weekend, then got down in the single digits and froze my truck solid, I had to use my fist as a hammer all around the door frame and latch so I could get in, my wipers we so frozen to the glass I had to let the defroster run for 15min before they would come loose.
Took 2 days of parking in the sun at work to get the rear wiper to unfreeze and the doors not to stick anymore.

 

I've got some gas line antifreeze that should work for now. I'll try the WD 40 too.

 

I will try the 1515 code for the alarm/door key thing. Where would I find what my code is supposed to be?

 

original paperwork delivered with vehicle; or a dealer might be able to provide it with VIN number and lots of information from you. It is one of those things like a radio code that should be written down somewhere.

BTW, what is your camp working on up there in the garden spot?

Been thinking that you could meter for AC volts (up to 6 or so) across the two signal wires that come from the sensor. They are black with yellow, and pink with black. You can't get at them easily at the ECU, because the RAVE does not provide a connector layout, and there are more than one wire with same color on that connector. You could get at it on the cable up from the sensor connector, you'ld have to disturb the shield (screen) and be sure that was put back electrically when done (don't break connection for it). You can poke a couple of straight pins into the individual wires to put meter probes to. When engine turns, the coil of wire inside the CKP produces a voltage. The waveform of the signal is used to trigger spark timing. No signal, the ECU thinks flywheel is not rotating, so no sparks commanded.

Also, until battery is in great shape you risk getting the alarm triggered and immobilzation. I'd unplug the under hood alarm switch. If truck is locked and alarm "armed", and battery dies, when you jump truck or replace battery the system wakes up, and recalls when it went to sleep it was armed, now the hood is open, disable vehicle! Alert the local population! Off with his head! Leak more oil so he will be easy to track! You get the idea. Or hold hood switch down with a brick before tinkering with jumper cables or new battery.

 

New battery will be here soon (I hope). I'm glad you mentioned that.

I was just outside, got the key lock de iced and was going to try the reset with the key procedure. Now the Locks don't lock or unlock (it's in unlock position) with the FOB. The alarm light lights up and blinks when I press the lock button on the FOB. The driver door locks and unlocks with the key and the alarm light lights up. When I press the unlock on the FOB the doors do not unlock, but the two signal light indicators on the dash turn on briefly. When I use the manual unlock button on the dashboard, nothing happens.

WHen I try to hold the door key in the unlock position for 5 seconds to start the reset process, nothing happens. No beep indicating the start of the procedure.

I tested the battery this morning after charging it up (pulled charger off when it was charged about 8pm last night) and it sitting all night and now it only read 12.2 volts. I have not cranked it today. The day before after charging the battery to full, it lost all charge after just a short bit of cranking. So I'm pretty sure that changing out the battery is important.

Having the error code 1668 makes me think that there might be something to do with the alarm has immobilized the system.

I am about to call my shop back home and ask them about getting me a new CKP. I will consider trying to meter it today. Obviously I cannot discount that very likely possibility.

I work in oil and gas exploration. I'm on the survey side of things and currently work as a mapper on a large geophysical operation. Sometimes it's called 'seismic' or the old school term 'seismograph'. We look for underground formations by shaking the ground (in this case drilling dynamite down a short ways) and listening to the reflections bounce back to the surface with instruments which are set into the ground. I'm part of the survey end of things. We set up where the seismic company will do the actual work. I make the maps that support the operation. This project is in the oil sands area in North Eastern alberta. I don't like to be too specific on exactly where and who we are working for. This is an 'open' camp. It's rather large and max capacity is 500 men (there are larger ones around). We are an operation of under 50 men here in full capacity for this seismic operation. Other people here are working building pipelines and other infrastructure, as well as working at or building facilities that extract the oil from the sand and send it through pipelines to market (further upgrading). The term "tar sands' is often used to describe this area. It is inaccurate as there is no tar. In some areas, the oil is literally seeping out of the ground. It is all shallow and mixed in with sand. Most of the extraction process these days is done using a technique called Steam Assisted Gravity Drainage. It used to be done with open pit mining.

 

I suspected an oil patch.

The guy who handles down hole instrumentation and the like might have smaller tools and better meters. Bet the battery life on a total station is lower than down here, where it was 82 yesterday.

 

So, YOU are the guy that get's us all the gas we need for these thirsty vehicles. So far, I'm getting around 13.6 MPG. Ouch! That's a combination of City and Freeway.

I also am leaning towards the immobilizer due to the 1668 code. But maybe that is also triggered when 'No Spark' happens?

Here is a page LRScott shared in These Forums that might help you understand the system a little more. NOTE: They are referring to a Range Rover, but it should have some compatibility.

Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A

Pay close attention to:
Emergency Key Access ("EKA") Procedure
(Disarming Alarm & Starting Vehicle when Remote is Lost or Fails)

There is also mention of powerful Cell Towers immobilizing Rovers. You are maybe near one???

And yet another thread with a more DIRECT approach to verifying/disabling the system:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/ala...tem-55949.html

 

Thanks for that super sport.
Now I'm baffled at the door locks suddenly not working.
I will look through all the fuses again.