Sudden die or won’t start
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
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From: TN
O’Reilly 🤷*♀️ That’s where the starters are coming from. When it does the click click, I can turn key to on position but not started~ Just where all dash lights are on and put in into neutral and let it roll back or push it fwd and bam it will start? Anyone ever heard of anything weird like this? I only found this trick out bc I was dead on the hwy and was gonna have to push it and so I pushed it to end of Walmart’s parking lot to leave it so that would be easier for me to work on etc and it started after so many failed attempts while sitting in Park and so then each Couple random times it did this sudden won’t start crap I put it in neutral roll it some and she will start right up. I swear the thing is possessed lol but I have no other options it’s put money into curing this or ride my bike and well it’s too cold right now to ride a bike lol and can’t put my 6yr old son on the bike either.
I guess to check this 2nd new starter next time it goes click click hoping someone is near me somewhere and can help do the tap tap deal? Hit the starter while they try and start it. And the wires I have checked they look fine but I guess I need a voltage meter? It’s the only thing I haven’t ordered yet, I have a scan code reader on the way along w new MAF and both upstream and downstream o2 sensors
I guess to check this 2nd new starter next time it goes click click hoping someone is near me somewhere and can help do the tap tap deal? Hit the starter while they try and start it. And the wires I have checked they look fine but I guess I need a voltage meter? It’s the only thing I haven’t ordered yet, I have a scan code reader on the way along w new MAF and both upstream and downstream o2 sensors
Thread Starter
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: TN
O’Reilly 🤷*♀️ That’s where the starters are coming from. When it does the click click, I can turn key to on position but not started~ Just where all dash lights are on and put in into neutral and let it roll back or push it fwd and bam it will start? Anyone ever heard of anything weird like this? I only found this trick out bc I was dead on the hwy and was gonna have to push it and so I pushed it to end of Walmart’s parking lot to leave it so that would be easier for me to work on etc and it started after so many failed attempts while sitting in Park and so then each Couple random times it did this sudden won’t start crap I put it in neutral roll it some and she will start right up. I swear the thing is possessed lol but I have no other options it’s put money into curing this or ride my bike and well it’s too cold right now to ride a bike lol and can’t put my 6yr old son on the bike either.
I guess to check this 2nd new starter next time it goes click click hoping someone is near me somewhere and can help do the tap tap deal? Hit the starter while they try and start it. And the wires I have checked they look fine but I guess I need a voltage meter? It’s the only thing I haven’t ordered yet, I have a scan code reader on the way along w new MAF and both upstream and downstream o2 sensors
I guess to check this 2nd new starter next time it goes click click hoping someone is near me somewhere and can help do the tap tap deal? Hit the starter while they try and start it. And the wires I have checked they look fine but I guess I need a voltage meter? It’s the only thing I haven’t ordered yet, I have a scan code reader on the way along w new MAF and both upstream and downstream o2 sensors
btw my lady that keeps showing is really supposed to be the one face palming her head lol not the idk one
Only thing I can think of for the placing it into N and rolling it and it starts = something with the XYZ switch adjustment or the linkage cable from the shifter to the XYZ switch is to tight.
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
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From: TN
Okay I will recheck that bc I just replaced it. Would that cause it to just suddenly die outta nowhere driving too? Sounds like a got multiple issues going on tbh. I have some sorta starter/ground wire issue on top of XYZ Switch being maybe not installed correctly. And I legit follow directions from here or Atlantic British videos so yeah it’s possible 32 yr old female doing all this stuff lol it’s no telling what I did. But I read a lot about those codes and the link up there someone posted so I mean it can’t hurt for me to replace the maf and o2 sensors at this point I mean they already being shipped so idk but I swear this rover gonna be brand new by the time I’m finished with it. lol and god willing it will last me awhile dang at least a year anyhow lol. I bought it last March and legit have been able to drive it MAYBE 6mths total all diff days/weeks combined. Luckily it’s able to be driven now I mean it drives smooth~ no weird noises etc but still have a ways to go~ this issue now~ next A/C~ after that I really do need to replace the whole ignition switch bc I broke a key off in it last year and took it apart to get the key out and when I reinstalled it well the key you have to be like a ninja and have it pulled out just a teeny tiny bit to get it to turn to start and pretty sure it’s like off a click (meaning I think the on position should be the start or something idk but it’s def not right) and have to push it in and turn towards you to get it fully off but even then I don’t think it is bc you can put key in and the ding ding ding sounds so yeah def not good. Anyhow thanks for all your all’s help and reading my venting stories 😊
Melissa
Melissa
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,865
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From: Michigan
I believe, in the link I posted..the guy that had the same codes as you corrected the problem by doing a smoke test, and finding out he had a vacuum leak at his injectors. He replaced the o-rings and that solved his issue.
Your ignition switch "could" be part of your issue too. Sounds like something is not right with it. And making sure your XYZ switch is adjusted correctly might help, too (but l doubt this would be the stalling issue, or contribute to it). But, if the starter is clicking when you turn the key, usually, that is a bad connection or faulty starter.
Also, put the year and model in your signiture, so we know what year model we are working/talking about.
Brian.
Your ignition switch "could" be part of your issue too. Sounds like something is not right with it. And making sure your XYZ switch is adjusted correctly might help, too (but l doubt this would be the stalling issue, or contribute to it). But, if the starter is clicking when you turn the key, usually, that is a bad connection or faulty starter.
Also, put the year and model in your signiture, so we know what year model we are working/talking about.
Brian.
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: TN
I think so too and maybe I am getting bad ones from O’Reilly but I buy the lifetime warranty ones that are like $100 I believe would have to check receipt and like i said above I honestly don’t know exactly what it is, a guy at a local shop that only fix Land Rover and another brand told me Discovery II but my title doesn’t say that. I know it’s a 2003 The back says Discovery and side says HSE7. Vin # SALTR14443A774457. I’ve been saying D2 all this time and now I’m not really sure.
Only stalling issue I've ever encountered on a P38/D2 had to due with a stuck/faulty IAC. One was replaced under warranty (made a noticeable buzz with the key in position II), and the other was just extremely dirty. IAC's on our 4.0/4.6L are pretty robust units, but they're mechanical and anything mechanical can and will break eventually.
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
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From: TN
I will have to google this cable. Not sure exactly what that is and yeah I think the XYZ Switch is maybe on too tight, okay so it just went into limp mode 30min ago on the way home. I really thought this limp mode was cured but it isn’t. It will jerk really hard and like skip a gear then I get the flashing m&s lights so I pulled over and turned it off then back on luckily it started and no click click but I almost felt like for a sec it was stuck in Park like it’s just too stiff so I sat in driveway and changed thru all gears just to see, so it just doesn’t feel right and also I had to like sit and hold it in a certain perfect position just to get the Neutral to snow on the dash or else it wasn’t really in N nor had red dot on the shifter, so as I got to 1 2 and 3 it was super stiff like almost impossible to get it into 3rd.
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Mudding
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: TN
Only stalling issue I've ever encountered on a P38/D2 had to due with a stuck/faulty IAC. One was replaced under warranty (made a noticeable buzz with the key in position II), and the other was just extremely dirty. IAC's on our 4.0/4.6L are pretty robust units, but they're mechanical and anything mechanical can and will break eventually.
Ive read that on other posts~ seems leaking o rings from injectors and this idle control valve have been the last things I’ve seen unfortunately. I’ve just thrown wayyy too many parts and just crazy things keep happening. My code reader should be here today. The MAF And new o2 sensors by Friday and I guess I really need to try and find a friend to help me w this smoke test cause it seems super beneficial
You can simply remove the IAC and clean it out with brake cleaner or carb spray. You want it to rotate freely vs stick.
On the XYZ switch business I'd crawl under the D2, and where the linkage/cable connects from the PRND321 to the XYZ there is a 13mm nut. Loosen the 13mm nut and push the linkage/cable maybe 1-2mm back up towards the D2. Then tighten the 13mm nut. The PRND321 should not feel stiff. It should have a little slop (not a lot but not stiff/tight either).
When I installed the CDL into my 02 Kalahari I of coarse had to remove the PRND321 assembly. I marked it, but when I tightened it up I put it in a littler tighter than before. It shifted thru the gears, but I did notice it being a little stiffer. I drove it maybe 10 miles and parked it at a gas station. When I got in I tried to crank it and I got absolutely nothing. Kinda went into panic mode for a second then I remembered I had messed with the PRND321 assembly during the CDL install. I cycled thru the gear selections and put it back into part. I noticed it seemed to barely be on the verge of being fully into park. I nudged it a little bit and boom it started up. I drove home and immediately adjusted it with a tiny bit of slack and the problem has never occurred again.
M&S flashing is 99% of the time from a weak battery, dirty battery cables, loose connections (even though they seem tight the OEM battery Clamps can not be grabbing the post tight enough), or the XYZ/Shifter Linkage is not properly adjusted. It can also be the wiring harness to the transmission with an issue (rare but has happened) or the valve body inside the transmission itself (also rare, but as these vehicles aren't getting any younger it's possible). The ZF22/ZF24 is an extremely robust transmission, but the XYZ switches or battery connections can cause the M&S to just about drive you nuts.
I honestly prefer the older tan ZF XYZ switches, as I've had way more issues with the newer black style, but results are different for everyone.
On the XYZ switch business I'd crawl under the D2, and where the linkage/cable connects from the PRND321 to the XYZ there is a 13mm nut. Loosen the 13mm nut and push the linkage/cable maybe 1-2mm back up towards the D2. Then tighten the 13mm nut. The PRND321 should not feel stiff. It should have a little slop (not a lot but not stiff/tight either).
When I installed the CDL into my 02 Kalahari I of coarse had to remove the PRND321 assembly. I marked it, but when I tightened it up I put it in a littler tighter than before. It shifted thru the gears, but I did notice it being a little stiffer. I drove it maybe 10 miles and parked it at a gas station. When I got in I tried to crank it and I got absolutely nothing. Kinda went into panic mode for a second then I remembered I had messed with the PRND321 assembly during the CDL install. I cycled thru the gear selections and put it back into part. I noticed it seemed to barely be on the verge of being fully into park. I nudged it a little bit and boom it started up. I drove home and immediately adjusted it with a tiny bit of slack and the problem has never occurred again.
M&S flashing is 99% of the time from a weak battery, dirty battery cables, loose connections (even though they seem tight the OEM battery Clamps can not be grabbing the post tight enough), or the XYZ/Shifter Linkage is not properly adjusted. It can also be the wiring harness to the transmission with an issue (rare but has happened) or the valve body inside the transmission itself (also rare, but as these vehicles aren't getting any younger it's possible). The ZF22/ZF24 is an extremely robust transmission, but the XYZ switches or battery connections can cause the M&S to just about drive you nuts.
I honestly prefer the older tan ZF XYZ switches, as I've had way more issues with the newer black style, but results are different for everyone.
