Yup, best way is a rebuild kit, but some folks get away with just the bearings. Given what's involved in the work just to replace the bearings, I'd do the kit.

 

That's exactly what mine did. No wobble until I hit about 65 or so, and *usually* only when I hit a bump.

The lower part of the swivel housing has a tapered roller bearing, much like a wheelbearing. The upper part consits of a steel pin that rides in a bushing, that appeared to be made of a copper or bronze material. Thats where mine was worn badly. I probably could have reused the lower bearing, but I got a new one with the kit so...

http://www.rovahfarm.com/DiscoIAxles.htm- scroll about a third down the page

 

Interesting,

I just manage to get the upper swivel pin off. what was below was just a mess! Several metal pieces that were washer remnants and a needle bearing cage with some rollers...

Rovers North show one washer and one needle thrust bearing as part of a rebuild kit.

The link you sent ( thanks a lot by the way, I didn't know about this place: it's in the US but close to home!) shows those parts individually but also as a kit where 2 washers are shown:

Do I need 1 or 2 washers? In that case I suppose they're mounted in the following order: washer, thrust bearing, washer, swivel pin (with shims).
Do I also need a new swivel pin? I figure that any wear on this part would be compensated by the shims.

 

2 washers, and you are correct on assembly order. When mine went bad, I contemplated replacing just the lower bearing and the upper bushing, reasoning that the upper pin is steel, where the bushing is a softer metal. Logic told me that the bushing would wear,and not the pin. But I ended up getting the kit,being it came with all the seals also. You'd probably be fine with a bearing and bushing.

 

I have found on my 97 Discovery I that it is much easier to remove the bolts and such by starting 2 to 3 days ahead of time with the PB Blaster application. I also bought a set of half inch drive impact wrench deep sockets, six-sided and an extra long 1/2 drive breaker bar to avoid rounding the corners or otherwise stripping the bolt heads. If that don't get it loose, it will provide enough lever arm to go ahead and shear the head if the bolt is froze.

Aren't these things a ton of fun to fix.

 

I have found on my 97 Discovery I that it is much easier to remove the bolts and such by starting 2 to 3 days ahead of time with the PB Blaster application. I also bought a set of half inch drive impact wrench deep sockets, six-sided and an extra long 1/2 drive breaker bar to avoid rounding the corners or otherwise stripping the bolt heads. If that don't get it loose, it will provide enough lever arm to go ahead and shear the head if the bolt is froze.

Aren't these things a ton of fun to fix. I just got thru replacing my fuel lines from the fuel pump to the engine bay due to extreme corrosion. Brake lines will be next major tubing project. Did one transmission cooler line already as well.

 

The pin is very tight in the bushing and hard to get in or out. There was only one .030 shim under the pin. I'm planing to only get a new top bearing in. I've ordered the thrust bearing, washers, and shims along with a new outer seal that I plan to split to install as seen on some postings.

According to the exploded views, the bottom bearing sits in the swivel ball and cannot be changed by just removing the bottom pin to gain access, am I right? How did you assess the condition of the bottom bearing?

 

The only way I know of to inspect roller bearings is to clean and look at the roller and race surfaces. They should be bright,shiny, highly polished surfaces. When the get worn, you will see scratches,gouges,worn non-shiny dull areas.

But yes, the only way to inspect the lower bearing would be to tear the axle down to the swivel ball.

If when you took the upper pin out, and all you had under it was mangled or missing,that would cause you problems there. The only issue I would see with replacing just the washers and needle bearing is if you have tiny remnants of the old washers floating around in the swivel housing.

And I'm sure you knew, but I didn't know until I did my axle that the swivel housing does not take gear lube like the repair manuals say. They (land rover) changed the recomendation to use grase.

 

Job's now done on the two sides. I put a new seal on without removing the swivel ball. I split it as shown on some links. Opening the spring is what took time (messed it up somewhat).

Since I never got the filling plug off (the head's now completely round : - ))
I poured the new grease through the ABS sensor hole. As long as you keep turning the wheel it works well.

The right side thrust bearing and washers were still whole but I changed them anyway and redid the preload.

The steering is now much nicer although some wobble persists when goiing over railroad crossings (along with the hazards turning on).

 

All bets are off on fixing your problem when you don't do a proper swivel pin rebuild and just replace a few selective parts.