Plshhh plus oil leaks sounds like oil escaping oil coolant hydronic lines. Dunno. Y it died

 

Pushed inertia switch - already feels depressed and no audible click
Checked fuses - all fine
Pulled a plug wire and I am getting spark when I crank over.
Checked the voltage across F10 under hood - no voltage across when turned to position two and I also do not hear the fuel pump.

So can I eliminate the crank position sensor?

I am getting a "chime, chime, chime" (3 times) and the three amigos while cranking over - is this normal?

 

+1 on the color. Very cool.

 

Update - goal elusive

Thx - I like the color also!! Why did they paint the front bumper pieces same as body color and not black like the rest of the trim???

Anyway...
First thing, I attempted a start - still turns over, does not run.
Pushed on top of inertia switch; did not feel movement or hear "click" - no change.
Removed spark plug wire from #2 and placed on intake with old plug; cranked - spark.
Checked fuse #10 - good.
Checked fuel pump relay - confirmed good by connecting 12V across appropriate relay spades - relay clicks and continuity across other spades.
Took some terminal spades and placed in the power slots of the fuel pump receptacle; with multimeter on hood the relay gets approx 7V with key on and 12V while cranking.
Although I did not have codes before, after cranking for a while, some were stored:
P0134, P0154, P1668, P1230, P0560, P1536 and P0340.
P0340 is a head scratcher as it is my understanding from manual if the cam sensor faults, the ECU will go to some defaults settings and still should allow engine to run.
Took inertia switch off firewall and it seems to be working fine. I can shake it and activate it. I even checked continuity across the three terminals; outer two have continuity in "normal" mode. One outside terminal and the middle terminal are connected in "fault" mode. When I re-installed the four-flashers worked as I expected they would - still just cranks over, no start.
Placed battery on charge for a while.
I still cannot hear fuel pump. Don't remember how loud it was in the past. Too many ding-ding-dings etc to be certain. I am solo, so I took my phone, placed it in center of cargo area above pump and started recording. I'll try to attach. Still did not detect pump actuation.
Now I am thinking it is the pump or something between the relay and pump. Wiring diagram search will commence. Ideas? Thoughts?
I don't hear the fuel pump - do you?? (MP3 format)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vco5q5q6ak66ihq/Memo.mp3

 

Fuel pump draws like 5 amps. You should be able to pull the fuel pump relay and bridge across the pins in the base to force pump on for a few seconds.

 

Back at it today.
1) When I connect a meter across the relay receptacles I initially get 5-6 Amps then settles to 0.45 A. I can hear the pump when I listen near the right rear wheel. I think the pump is OK.
2) Swapped relays - no change.
3) I tested relays - fine. BTW, about 6V will activate the relay.
4) Built a jumper and the pump runs with the jumper in place.
5) Still will not start with the jumper in place and the pump running.

I have not climbed on the engine and locate the valve in attempt to test fuel rail pressure (wtf - it is a test port, why not make it accessible??)

Question - with a failed crank position sensor, will the system still create spark?

I have a new crank sensor however I am hesitant to swap as I thought a failed sensor would equate to no spark.

I am pretty certain the ECU is not powering up the fuel pump relay. I wonder what else is not being activated?

EDIT - I replaced the crank sensor - no joy.

 

Noted pressure at the fuel rail.
Any thoughts before I go beat my head some more?

 

Well, with spark and pressure at the fuel rail, it was time; compression test.
#2 = ZERO!!! Whaaaatttt! How is that possible!! Gauge busted?? No, tested on a motorcycle - fine.
Grabbed a buddy; cranking - piston moving. Finger over hole - no compression. Checked #6; piston moves however no compression.
Guessing timing chain; at 46k and while driving at constant speed, WOW!

 

Oh no...

I don't think these engines are interference, but it's still a pain in the *** getting the front cover off. Good luck with it.

 

Well, looks like I'll be on 2 wheels for a while. I think I may lack the gumption for the mission at hand. Anyone have experience with Aristocrat motors in KC or have a recommendation for motor work in the mid west? I don't mind spending some $$ for excellent work.