While diagnosing/troubleshooting my TC/ABS/HDC problem, I found that my drivers front lug nuts were virtually impossible to remove. Required a 3' cheater to get them loose. I know they were torqued correctly because I did it myself back in May/June. Turned out they were badly corroded. There was a solid layer of white corrosion filling the cylindrical gap between each lug nut and the wheel, no corrosion on the threads. Anybody else seen this? Anyone know how to prevent it? If this had gone any longer I don't think I could have gotten them off! Currently I'm thinking htat I will replace all my lug nuts, but this is not as cheap as one might hope.

On the TC/ABS/HDC front, I replaced all brake pads with factory ones and reseated all the ABS sensors. My old pads looked good on the back, but hte fronts were getting thin and were cracked. Tomorrow I will get the dealer to read the codes and clear the error. Then we'll wait and see.

Elliot

 

You might want to consider putting a couple of drops of oil in each lug not prior to putting them on.
As for your brake faults, I will be interested to see how that turns out.
Mike

 

TC/ABS/HDC: The front driver's sensor had a fair amount of metal filings struck to it when I pulled it out. Anyone know if that can contribute? I have an appointment for tomorrow at 11 to have the codes read and cleared. I really hope it is not the modulator. An ABS sensor would be a relief, even if I actually have to replace one or all. Wish me luck. I will post with the results tomorrow.

Lug Nuts: I work in a Mechanical Engineering group. Concensus is that the corrosion is zinc oxide. The lug nuts appear to be steel, galvanized (zinc), then plated with yellow chromate. Each layer protects the layers underneath. I think I noticed a small amount of corrosion in the past and hit some of these with a wire brush. Probably took too much of the yellow chromate off, which exposed the zinc to the ellements. But I am not sure why my bright chome plated lock lug is showing some corrosion also. I think I will order a new set of lug nuts all around as I don't want to chance this happening again.

 

The metal filings are usually an indication of excessive axial hub end-float on the Disco II. In cases like this we usually end up having to fit a new hub assembly which comes with the ABS Sensor (about $450 from the dealer --I have them for $50 less), as just clearing the fault and removing the filings does nothing to correct the root cause of the problem. The light is coming on due to a changing air-gap between the sensor and the target ring. It is not a uncommon problem on the Discovery II-- when it rolls over the 100K mark.

On the Disco I --- when the end-float goes out of spec, it frequently pushes the ABS sensor out of it's bore. In some cases, a simple clean-up, and tapping the sensor back into the bore will correct things. If metal shavings are present here--- we replace hub bearings, seals, and sometimes the hub itself if it chewed up the hub.


regards,

Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com

 

OK, I got my codes read by the dealer (no charge). Intermittant signal from the right front ABS sensor. The actual mechanic said they see this more on trucks with slotted/drilled rotors like mine. Dealer cleared them and they have not recurred on the drive home (35 miles). So far, so good! Hopefully it was just the front brakes pads wearing low and cracking, combined with the slotted/drilled rotors. I guess only time will tell. At least it was not the modulator.

BTW: my dealer also said that they have never had any success with the shuttle valve rebuild kits. Said they always fail again within 50 miles.

 

So did you have any luck with the trio lights?I just started getting this problem,and I'm looking for any good advise.Thanks.