Then what? HG
#61
NIce work.
I'm getting ready to do the head gaskets myself. Unfortunately one of my elring gaskets is damaged:
I have another pair of gaskets that came with my head gasket kit from Lucky8, but the brand is unknown... it came in plain plastic wrapping. They're tacky/shiny. Other than that, they looks the same as the elrings... so I was thinking to use one of each, but not entirely comfortable using no-name parts. Anyone used either and can comment?
I was about to order a set of Fel-Pro gaskets off of RockAuto for cheap, but judging by the picture they don't have the metal webbing that connect the cylinder rings... and I feel like thats a miss.
I'm getting ready to do the head gaskets myself. Unfortunately one of my elring gaskets is damaged:
I have another pair of gaskets that came with my head gasket kit from Lucky8, but the brand is unknown... it came in plain plastic wrapping. They're tacky/shiny. Other than that, they looks the same as the elrings... so I was thinking to use one of each, but not entirely comfortable using no-name parts. Anyone used either and can comment?
I was about to order a set of Fel-Pro gaskets off of RockAuto for cheap, but judging by the picture they don't have the metal webbing that connect the cylinder rings... and I feel like thats a miss.
But, if you don't, I'd trust anything from Lucky 8.
I'll throw in, just to irritate everyone, that I once used copper coat gasket spray on both sides of some head gaskets as an experiment. When I had to remove the heads for other reasons I had to use an engine crane to get them apart (no kidding... and I had the engine OUT... a large rubber mallet and even more drastic means I will not admit to in writing would not separate them from the engine). That's a stout seal. I didn't use it on the reinstall though because getting them apart to do gaskets with the engine in the Rover would, in my imagination, been more than difficult. To further rouse the rabble, I wish you'd use studs instead of bolts. It makes positioning the heads so much easier and they pay for themselves next time you do the gaskets.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 11-28-2016 at 10:55 PM.
#62
Looks like you are getting it done.
Here are some pictures from when I did this 4 long years ago...
In a parking lot.
Took two weeks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Here are some pictures from when I did this 4 long years ago...
In a parking lot.
Took two weeks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
#63
Looks like you are getting it done.
Here are some pictures from when I did this 4 long years ago...
In a parking lot.
Took two weeks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
Here are some pictures from when I did this 4 long years ago...
In a parking lot.
Took two weeks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/
My son adding to the damage. Lol
#64
#67
On the other hand, is it uncommon after the HG work that the Service engine light started flashing? Is it possible that the engine didnt have enough time to warm up yet? I sint want to get it running for long time since the belt is loose. Thanks
#69
I remember that the truck was squeaking badly before the HG replacement. Also, i forgot the tensioner outside in the rain for days coz i will replace it anyway. I ordered a replacement thinking that needed to be replaced but didnt arrive in time.
On the other hand, is it uncommon after the HG work that the Service engine light started flashing? Is it possible that the engine didnt have enough time to warm up yet? I sint want to get it running for long time since the belt is loose. Thanks
On the other hand, is it uncommon after the HG work that the Service engine light started flashing? Is it possible that the engine didnt have enough time to warm up yet? I sint want to get it running for long time since the belt is loose. Thanks
That belt shouldn't be loose at all. Squeaking and a loose belt are probably not connected. For squeaking, the easiest fix is if a pulley is not right, so check those. If you idle the engine while standing next to it, state down at the pulleys and see if any are wobbling. That can cause a squeak. But if it was squeaking before and they are right, pull the fan and use some WD 40 with the straw on it (fan off) and spray a little I'm the center of each pulley while it is running. That will a show you which is squeaking.
For the slack, the tensioner pulley must not be on right or the belt is routed wrong.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 12-03-2016 at 07:56 AM.
#70
Just be careful around that tentioner, especially if you suspect it is damaged. I had a tentioner come a part on a Max Force diesel engine just last week, blew shards of spring steel into the fiberglass tilt hood a good quarter inch. I'd just had my head in there seconds earlier. Yes, I had safety glasses on...but my heart kind of sunk when I thought about the damage one of those pieces of steal could have done if it connected with that.
So, used extreme care around a running engine.
Brian.
So, used extreme care around a running engine.
Brian.