If you're not getting heat, you could have compound problems (not heating up & heater issues). First check the engine temp. After the vehicle has been running a while and it's fully warm (leave the cap off while it warms up), stick a probe thermometer down into the radiator coolant and see what the temperature is. A cheap air conditioning thermometer or even a meat thermometer will work. If you have an infrared thermometer aim it at the thermostat housing and check it there. The goal is to see what temp the engine is running at. It should be somewhere in the 190-195 degree range typically. If it's within a couple degrees of your thermostat, then you know your engine is within range and you might have a bad sending unit or gauge. If not, it's possible you could have gotten a bad new thermostat. When you go to install at stat, always make sure the pellet is towards the manifold (away from the radiator). If temp is good then you got to look at your heating situation. Feel the hoses going to the heater core. If they're cool or mildly warm, see if there is an inline valve that isn't opening, or some obstruction (like a plugged heater core). Sometimes ya can back flow a radiator by using a garden hose spraying at reverse flow.Better, is to not waste time and replace the Heater core. If the hoses are hot to the point where you can't hardly touch them, then you probably have a heater box door that isn't opening properly. It could be that a hose came off the actuator, or even an leaking actuator (usually air operated). At any rate, you'd have to look at the heater box door levers under the dash and make sure the doors are moving properly.

Away to bleed the air out is to park it on a very steep hill while it is running (rad cap off).

 

Thanks mark
I'll try these suggestions
I assume you park with the radiator uphill?
Bc

 

I have a question about the air bleeder on the upper hose...Does or is it supposed to come out altogether or un screw partially, or pull -out?
I have it "pulled out" about a 1/4"...but it's not bleeding...The upper hoses are all hot, I can feel and hear bubbles in the lines. Maybe it clogged? I'm tempted to give a quick shot of compressed air...carefully...

 

don't have one, but many users complain of breaking them, and getting a replacement at the BMW dealer. I suspect people would find it easier if it actaully had a nipple you could attach a clear plastic hose to, and drain into a bucket. Keep venting until the bubbles stop, even with engine idled up. Recover coolant. Less mess. With 10 - 15 psi in there, it is going to come out (hoses will be firm if under pressure). Good idea to wear some eye protection.

 

Question: I saw a replacment/aftermarket "TEE" that goes betwixt all the upper hoses, it had a bleeder and a bung for a temp sensor...any
body know where to get one?
Thanks

 

Along w/ the aftermarket "TEE" w/ the temp sensor bung & the bleeder, I have another Q: I've got a temp sender in the bottom of the pass side radiator tank, I don't have electric fans. Is there a handy ELECTRIC temp guage that would read that? & if so, where could I get it/
Thanks
PS head gasket replacement complete, runs like watch...but I'm still a bit leary of its inate overheating malady and lack of accurate reporting...need back-up guage

 

Here's info on that monitoring stat, if you have one.

You do have an electric fan for the AC condenser I guess, but that is controlled by the ECU based on inputs from mainly the temp sensor on top of the engine between compressor and alternator. Spec sheet attached, should come on at 212F and off at 202F, which I consider evidence that Rover believes the normal operating temp to be between 180F and 204F (the open to full open range of the stat) when on the highway, level ground, no trailer.

I share your reluctance to depend on the temp guage. The design uses the ECU to "process" the data and set the pointer to 9:00 for a very wide range of temps. So when you get to the top of the range and start to move up past 9:00, you are already overheating...

Another alternative is the Ultra Gauge, which plugs into the OBDII port, monitors and displays whatever you like that appears on that port, with alarm points you set. Also functions as scanner and code reader. About $70.

 

Thanks for the info, Savannah Buzz, Two more Q's:1) where can I get an Ultra Guage, and 2) preface; I DO NOT have electric fans, but I don have a temp sending unit/sensor on the pass. side radiator tank. (My understanding was that one runs the fans and the intake sensor talks to the computer)...In any case, is there a guage that will work off that signal, it's the two pin sensor that came up on every part house search except CAR QUEST, who showed them both...I got a manifold/upper sender, FAE for $22 from them, everyone else wanted around TWICE that much...
Oh, in all fairness the intake sensor did show-up listed under "RANGE ROVERS" not for the Disc...go figure...
What I'd really like is a set of column mount gauges for the Disco 2, tach, temp & oil...anybody got a line on some VDO's or other high end gauge set? I have a beige interior.
Thanks
PS don't get me wrong, I like the Disco. I fly hang gliders and live in Oregon, we fly some seriously remote locations w/ our wives and/or girl friends driving retrieval... puting them in some non-servicable areas...as in NO CELL and NO RADIO COVERAGE...we fly w/ cell and 2 meter fm.
So, when I tell people to sell their rigs, what I mean is: if you aren't into mods and being a mechanic or a money pit: sell it, get a Toyota...

 

link to electric cooling fan, most with AC will have this A/C Condenser Fan - Land Rover & Range Rover Parts

switched on by D2's ECU when needed, on a D1 there are 2 and they come on when AC is engaged.

D2 coolant sensor - pix and info attached. It is same sensor that drives ECU and would be displayed by an Ultra Gauge.

re: gauge pod - there have been write ups on that (door pillar). I've always thought an oil PSI and coolant temp would be good. Maybe a voltmeter. One place that might work for a temp sender is a T put in the feed line for the heater core. Hot coolant is always being pumped there, no on/off valve. Coolant flow diagram attached. Might wrap some insulation around pipe and T to reduce heat loss before sender unit.

Ultra Gauge - UltraGauge Automotive Information Center and OBDII Scan Tool

BTW my wife did recovery for a friend who "hung around" Lookout Mountain, in north Georgia/Tenn/Ala - lot easier now with GPS.

 

PARTS LIST:3/8" TO 1/4" brass bushing, 1/4" brass drain valve.
SUPPLIES: 2 part epoxy( I generally have some 5 min laying around...& carb cleaner...) Carb cleaner, teflon paste pipe dope, had that, too
Tools: 7/16" drill bit, 3/8" pipe/MIP tap, small wire drill brush, a bit of 80 grit sand paper( have all the tools)
1) Rinse TEE w/ fresh water. Clean upper rad. hose TEE w/ carb cleaner ( remove from rig 1st...)
2) use small wire drill brush to rough-up TEE at proposed bushing site. I tilted mine back to allow for hood clearance.
3) drill 7/16" hole & tap TEE for 3/8" pipe/MIP/ bottom tap to seat the bushing hex head flush against the TEE
4) cut down bushing, use a hack saw, so the bushing doesn't protrude into & obstruct the coolant flow.
5) use teflon pipe dope to seal the valve body threads & tighten into the bushing
6) use 5 min. epoxy ( put SMALL amount on threads in the TEE and a SMALL amount on the bushing threads)
7) install the bushing into the TEE, snug to the hex head on the bushing( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THIS)
8) aquire some milled fiber glass( I got some from the exhaust end of a fiber glass shop's grinding booth, they won't care...)
9) mix a small amount of 5 min epoxy( like an 1/4 tsp max) w/ a small pile of fiber. Make a moderately stiff paste
10) w/ a popsicle stick ( or some such stick, w/ the end cut off at a slight angle) trowel a curb/fillet around the bushing head, smooth and allow to cure

You don't need to paint yours, I just did it for easier viewing. Also, you can use 1 hr epoxy...JB WELD, whatever, 2 part epoxy you want...marine/aviation, it will all work fine...I like 5 min for the 5 min part...)If you can't get milled fiber, you can use baking soda...not quite as strong but, considering the app...strong enough, hell, a little BONDO would work... In fact, thruth be known, (I'm big on the "no question it's gonna work" end of the spectrum) you could actually skip this step altogether...(though you notice, I didn't...)
Not rocket science, enjoy.
Also, this cost, incld the epoxy: about $7. Beats the $70 the dealership wants for the entire hose ***'y( plus I have a 230 mile round trip...)
PS that's coolant squirting out of the bleeder...