Those with oil pressure gauges.....
#1
#3
IMHO you have a combination of oil pump problems (many have posted photos of cracked ones that continue to pump, just not enough) and low oil viscosity (are you running something-W-40 or 50). 10W30 is only speced in the factory manual for a high end of 95 degrees F.
The oil warning switch comes on at like 8 PSI, so you are wearing out that precious metal at a very fast rate. I'm thinking there have been posts of 20 PSI or so for warm idle.
If you have 10W30 now, swap to 15w40 and see how much it improves. If you are where it stays warm, 20W50.
From RAVE workshop manual, general data:
Before you start taking the front cover off, read the recent posts about that very thing. At the same time you can do water pump and timing chain and front crank seal.
You do realize that it should be considered a good thing that you have caught this. You may be able to change oil viscosity and keep rolling while you build up the parts cabinet, get wife's car out of the warm garage, etc.
The oil warning switch comes on at like 8 PSI, so you are wearing out that precious metal at a very fast rate. I'm thinking there have been posts of 20 PSI or so for warm idle.
If you have 10W30 now, swap to 15w40 and see how much it improves. If you are where it stays warm, 20W50.
From RAVE workshop manual, general data:
Pressure at idle (Cold) 3.0 bar (43.5 lbf.in2)
Pressure at 3500 rev/min (Hot) 1.5-3.0 bar (21.75-43.5 lbf.in2)
Relief valve opening pressure 4.0 bar (58 lbf.in2)
Low oil pressure switch opening pressure 0.2-0.6 bar (3.0-8.8 lbf.in2)Pressure at 3500 rev/min (Hot) 1.5-3.0 bar (21.75-43.5 lbf.in2)
Relief valve opening pressure 4.0 bar (58 lbf.in2)
Before you start taking the front cover off, read the recent posts about that very thing. At the same time you can do water pump and timing chain and front crank seal.
You do realize that it should be considered a good thing that you have caught this. You may be able to change oil viscosity and keep rolling while you build up the parts cabinet, get wife's car out of the warm garage, etc.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 10-20-2011 at 01:51 PM.
#4
This is an older short block from a RR. New oil pump, so if the readings are low, it's due to internal wear. I'm running 10/40. I live in PHoenix, could I get away with 20w/50? Or maybe I'm making an issue outta something that really isn't a problem. The sub 10 psi readings only occur when really hot.
#6
This is an older short block from a RR. New oil pump, so if the readings are low, it's due to internal wear. I'm running 10/40. I live in PHoenix, could I get away with 20w/50? Or maybe I'm making an issue outta something that really isn't a problem. The sub 10 psi readings only occur when really hot.
As for the 10psi at a hot idle, you are making a mountain out of a mole hill, that is perfectly normal, the oil is hot and thin and thats what happens.
Switching to 20w-50 will solve that "problem" for sure.
#10
I have a number of vehicles I own and use at the office, and I would be concerned about 32 PSI while driving. My high miles Mercedes does over 3 bar (43.5 PSI), and idles at 1 bar (14.5) to 1.5 bar. And can outleak the Disco in quantity, just not from as many places.
On the other hand, you are middle of the range for RAVE spec. If the 20W50 does not bring things up, might want to inspect or replace that oil pump.
On the other hand, you are middle of the range for RAVE spec. If the 20W50 does not bring things up, might want to inspect or replace that oil pump.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 10-21-2011 at 04:54 AM.