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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 07:12 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by oysterhead
sorry to bring this thread back from the dead.

can someone post of picture of what the "bypass" looks like?
sorry to bring this thread back from the dead.

can someone post of picture of what the "bypass" looks like?

should i go and eliminate my heater connection as well like i did on the D1?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 07:48 AM
  #32  
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I have gone thru 4 good cold winters in Colorado with no issues at all, either at starting or driving at 10 t0 15 below zero.
The process was simple, using a small piece of coper tubing, bent into the shape of a "C" and join the hoses together. -Mike

Best description so far. I can do that.Mike's commented on it like a zillion times so I'll probably get in trouble for bringing it up.But, it's not as clear as you all think...so I'll work it out here, get a pic and then maybe the next guy will have an easier time.

What's not clear is a) do i remove the entire throttle body heater plate and somehow get it back together without it and/or do I just cap the two hose inlet/outlet on the plate. And b) does it just hang there on it's own or do I tie it up somehow.


 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 07:59 AM
  #33  
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This sticky fix it thread is the most informative and illustrative yet for fixing the problem going stock: Throttle Body Heater Gasket Repair - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum.

It will help me in identifying all the bits so I know what I am looking at. But I still need figure out how the bypass should look.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #34  
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OK, everyone is scared to answer because they'll get flamed. Remember, my temps rarely would go below 68F....so...I'm doing it.

I'm going to connect the two hoses together and clean and cap the throttle body heater plate as I don't know if I should remove it or not.

If I'm the next one in a Daily News article then you guys can call me an idiot too.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #35  
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Two hose clamps and male to male splice fitting ought to do it.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #36  
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Yup, that's what I'm going to do....and cap the throttle body heater plate somehow.

Or do I remove it entirely.

Thanks as always.
 
Attached Thumbnails  Throttle Body Heater-01062011733.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 03:11 PM
  #37  
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No need to remove it, it won't leak air into throttle body. You can see from pix it just makes a warm wet spot under the throttle body. That helps keep your motor running on a cold night.
 
Attached Thumbnails  Throttle Body Heater-mgm000010k.jpg  
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 05:24 PM
  #38  
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perfect. thanks sava.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 09:06 AM
  #39  
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Default Damn plastic hose

awwwwwwwwww fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuug.

while waiting for my hard line hose, expansion tank to throttle body heater I decided to make sure I didn't have any other leaks and go ahead and clean up the throttle body area of the leak and maybe do the conversion to the old hose.

well the hard line broke again in two spots rendering it useless. i thought I might be able to eliminate the entire line somewhere close to the expansion tank but looking at the RAVE it think i would mess up the flow.

so I'm off to PEP boys to find some hosing to reconfigure that hose. I might render the hose I just bought from AB useless but it should be ok as a permanent replacement. i like the silicon idea but that's just gonna get pricey.

these plastic hoses are an accident waiting to happen on a lot of trucks i bet.

despite the leaks and my constant topping off with d.water, my temps are great rarely hitting 190.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2012 | 09:52 AM
  #40  
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IMHO the quantity of water flow thru the throttle body heater to expansion tank is minimal. You could plug at each end, but keep in mind it is more difficult to make a stopper that will hold 20 PSI than replace with hose. Just get thick wall stuff that can take 240F, and attach it so that it can't sag and contact really hot parts, or kink and increase pressure and pop off, squirting coolant everywhere.
 
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