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Throttle Body Heater Plate Kit

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  #31  
Old 07-14-2014, 05:28 AM
Jared9220's Avatar
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Originally Posted by aguison
Firstly thank you to everyone who replied to this post.

I worked on it this weekend. The instructions everyone provided were all perfect. However it didn't have a happy ending

While tightening the last of the 3 bolts after replacing the heater gasket, I flet the threads on the throttle body got stripped! I was so pissed off since I was only using a 1/4" drive with a short 4" handle and was tightening the socket with my hand grasping the socket!

Hoping that the seal would still hold, I put everything together and I drove the vehicle for a few blocks and saw coolant seeping through the new gasket. Needless to say, was very disappointed.

Warning to other members: Be careful when tightening the 3 bolts on the underside of the throttle body. The threads can strip easily and you will end up like me!

So I ended up bypassing the coolant hoses. I sawed off one of the metal hose tubes from the old heater part and used the sawed off metal hose to join the two coolant hoses together.

Don't really know how important the heater is, being I'm in California. What would you guys do? Is there a way to salvage the throttle body? Would you buy a replacement throttle body to reinstate the heater function?

Attached are some photos of the project for those members who will be attempting this fix.
As long as you are not in the mountains in Cali you should be fine. Plenty of members in the warmer climate areas bypass the thing all together and never have issues. You should be fine if that is the route you decide to take.
 
  #32  
Old 07-14-2014, 05:58 AM
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drill it and tap to the next larger size or install a helicoil
 
  #33  
Old 07-14-2014, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
drill it and tap to the next larger size or install a helicoil
Either way.

If it were me and I was in southern CA I would let it ride with the bypass or maybe buy or make a U shaped piece of tubing and put in place of the piece you have in now... to insure you don't have any lines kinked and are not restricting your flow and also to give you a little more griping area with your hose clamps.
BUT that's just me.

I live so far south that I bypassed mine and am not worried about it.

Or you could do like drowssap said above.

Whatever makes you happy! Depending on whereabouts in CA you live.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 07-14-2014 at 07:57 AM.
  #34  
Old 07-15-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
Dusty,
as stated earlier it have a lot to do with the wind chill factor, I would assume on a 30 degree trucking 65mph that your wind chill factor would be well below the 30 degree ambient temperature.
Strictly speaking, it has nothing to do with wind chill because that is when an organic object (eg human body) attempts to replace warm air that was next to the skin but which has been blown away by the wind.

What happens in the throttle body (choke tube) is that as air passes through it, it expands into the inlet tract and slows down. This expansion causes a temperature drop and the localised temperature may drop below 32F/0C. If there is moisture present in the air then there is a risk that this will freeze. A carburettor is more likely to have this problem because it has venturis to create this pressure drop to atomise the fuel. Fuel injection systems usually don't have the venturis because the injectors take care of the atomisation, but there is still a pressure drop in the throttle body due to the airflow restrictions caused by the throttle butterfly itself.

You are probably less likely to get it happen when the intake air temperature is below freezing point because the water will probably already have condensed/frozen out of the air. Moist conditions with the temperatures up to as much as 70F (20C) can cause carburettor icing but because throttle bodies don't have a venturi as such then that temperature is likely to be lower.

No water in the air = no risk of icing but anywhere that the air is warmish and moist there is a danger of icing.
 
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