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Throttle pedal frozen...

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  #11  
Old 01-02-2018, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Externet
Thanks.
The stuck throttle only happens on very cold mornings; the suspicion of ice in the butterfly is just a suspicion. That is why was asking if there were similar experiences. It is too cold now to get my hands and camera do diagnose/post.
And of course, whenever the weather allows me to do it, the misbehavior is gone.
It is Napa green coolant 50/50, and the body heater is operational.
Will come back at some point...

Edited : Pulled the throttle cable by hand at the engine end and the pedal moves, the butterfly is stuck.
For some reason I can’t post any pictures, but “if” you find the throttle body plate covered in oil varnish/goo I’d honestly remove it from the D2 (you can leave the throttle body heater connected), remove it from the intake so you can fully clean both sides of the throttle body plate. Then re-install. I’ve seen a few with broken return springs in my day from rust/corrosion as well.I bought an 04 about 6 years ago & it drove fine on the way home. I stopped off for some gas, started it up & noticed the idle slightly higher. When I gassed it to go it just stuck and wouldn’t return to idle, I just parked it, removed the intake to find the nastiest throttle body I’ve ever seen to this day!!! I went back into the gas station bought some carb spray & cleaned it as best as I could. I then got home & removed it from the D2. It was actually so bad it’s movement was extremely notchy. I had a spare throttle body so I just swapped it out. I eventually got it clean, but it wasn’t 100% smooth so I removed the TPS & tossed it into the trash.
 
  #12  
Old 01-02-2018, 01:55 PM
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Update :
Pulled the air duct and there is no ice at the butterfly inside the throttle body duct. It has some oily film. Force pushed the butterfly open and it now moves fine as in any day with warm temperature. If there is ice in the coolant chamber by the end of its shaft, it will be inspected another moment that I can work longer and carefully to avoid breaking anything. Will try to find pictures of that plastic coolant chamber to see if there is a chance for coolant to pass to the shaft end from a defective gasket in there.
The stuck condition never happens again later in the day; only once at first morning very cold start.
Thank you.
 
  #13  
Old 01-02-2018, 02:40 PM
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As with the old style motorbike brakes, if there was water in the brake cable it often froze and the front brake was inoperative. In many cases I would regularly oil the brake cable, in this case the throttle cable, using an old cycle inner tube valve section wired tightly around the cable outer sheath and bent and wired the opposite end then fill with oil via the valve hole and the screw the valve in and pump up with a cycle pump, this forces the oil down the cable sheath and cable. Job done, then just re-install.

No worries these days though, hydraulic brakes both front and rear.
 
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Old 01-02-2018, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Externet
Update :
Pulled the air duct and there is no ice at the butterfly inside the throttle body duct. It has some oily film. Force pushed the butterfly open and it now moves fine as in any day with warm temperature. If there is ice in the coolant chamber by the end of its shaft, it will be inspected another moment that I can work longer and carefully to avoid breaking anything. Will try to find pictures of that plastic coolant chamber to see if there is a chance for coolant to pass to the shaft end from a defective gasket in there.
The stuck condition never happens again later in the day; only once at first morning very cold start.
Thank you.
Did you wipe it down and clean it while you were looking at it? Just sounds dirty to me, but report back & keep warm!
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 08:28 AM
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Now I know why people leave this forum
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Now I know why people leave this forum
If they can get better help at Discoweb & not get attacked the second they post something = more power to them & good luck! No one is fighting here, or slamming anyones tech abilities.We’re diagnosing something. Like Offroad said I’ve seen plenty of sheathed cables stick in cold weather, they can rust inside, cables can break and snag, coolant can leak out of the seepy & poorly made throttle body heater plate & if the water to coolant ratio isn’t spot on it “could” freeze when it leaks...We know his cable is good as he’s diagnosed it now. That leaves a dirty sticking throttle body (especially since his throttle body heater plate is connected).
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 10:54 AM
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Its not poorly made. Many people fix them and seal them and they work like they are supposed too.

Instead of telling people to remove something that has an important function, talk them through fixing it the right way if its broken.

The general feel around here lately is if something is giving you grief, just fabricate it, change to some other part, eliminate it.
Pathetic.

Throttle bodies DO freeze, condensation CAN build up and talking someone into removing that dastardly throttle heater might eventually wind someone up in some liability.
 
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2018, 11:07 AM
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Seems like this winter might finally mean using the TBH!

I’m in so cal and always repair the leak instead of bypass as I don’t want the liability if someone were to go into freezing temps.

But I know plenty of people that up until now have not had issues.
 
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Old 01-03-2018, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Its not poorly made. Many people fix them and seal them and they work like they are supposed too.

Instead of telling people to remove something that has an important function, talk them through fixing it the right way if its broken.

The general feel around here lately is if something is giving you grief, just fabricate it, change to some other part, eliminate it.
Pathetic.

Throttle bodies DO freeze, condensation CAN build up and talking someone into removing that dastardly throttle heater might eventually wind someone up in some liability.
Okay I’m first going to state in this thread I NEVER said to remove a throttle body heater plate. Second it is poorly designed as it’s attached with 3 screws with one dead center of the two coolant nipples making it very difficult to have a good seal. LR used to replace entire throttle bodies out as it was quicker to mess with vs cleaning & sealing it. You DO NOT see nearly as many issues with RRC/D1/D90 throttle body heater plates due to the different design. Third yes throttle bodies can freeze, but this is upon a cold start up where it hasn’t been running long enough to make any hot/cold moisture buildup in the air intake! And I stand by my statement of Jeep’s & Hummers not having any kind of throttle body heater plates with hundreds of thousands of them on the roads all over the USA & Canada and not one single verified case of a frozen throttle body. From the sound of this situation I’d HIGHLY recommend a very good cleaning of the entire throttle body front/back of the throttle plate, good inspection of the springs, and activating it to see if it smoothly opens/closes without being notchy. If it still doesn’t feel smooth PM me & I’ll help you out. The only thing Pathetic here is acting like every single part on a LR is perfect lol.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; 01-03-2018 at 12:04 PM.
  #20  
Old 01-03-2018, 12:08 PM
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I would never take a jeep or Hummer to the places I would take a Rover.
 


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