The "Tick" - how long have you driven with it?
Rotella T is a fine oil that has millions of miles on it.
There' s a lot of disagreement on this, and there have been threads in the past that got a bit heated.
There are basically three types of motor oils.
Dino - this is refined from dinosaurs that died millions of years ago. It is refined to be a lubricant (as opposed to being gasoline or plastic, which are also made from dinosaurs). This basic process goes back ~100 years, and the main change has been additives that make the oil more slippery and give it a wider viscosity.
Group III synthetic (basically all 'synthetic' motor oils besides M1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple) - also refined from dinosaurs that died millions of years ago. Refined in a modern process that makes it lubricate "much like" Group IV oil. It's not legal to call Group III oils synthetic in some countries, because they are just dino oil refined differently.
Group IV (and V and VI, but they are uncommon) synthetic (M1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple) - these are oils that were designed in a lab to be lubricants. They are manufactured instead of refined.
So, dino oil is the most primitive type of motor oil. It is a bit like using ethanol to fuel your car. It will certainly work and work well, but it isn't the 'best' choice for the job if maximum performance is your goal.
Rotella T6 is Group III and M1 is Group IV. There is much argument about how much difference there ultimately is between Group III and IV. I personally feel that a product designed from scratch to be a motor oil has to be better than a refined product.
The Rotella T guys advocate more frequent oil changes and say that fresh oil will keep the engine cleaner. They (accurately) say that semis have run T for millions for miles with no problems, so it's going to work fine in our trucks.
The synthetic guys say that you can run a synth longer before it deteriorates, it is slipperier and has a wider viscosity range than dino (which reduces engine wear), and they generally aren't as worried about fouling. Many of us also feel/hear a difference between the oils.
So, run whatever you want. My truck certainly got noisier when I ran Rotella T. I'd had M1 10w30 for the winter, and when I changed it to T the truck sounded worse, despite the fresh oil. Then when I changed it to M1 TDT, it got quiet again.
That alone is reason enough for me to run M1, although I'd certainly be willing to run T6 if I got it for a steal or something. 90% of the reason I'm running M1 TDT it's slightly thicker than T6. The other 10% is the whole Group III vs IV question. But if I lived in a cooler climate, I'd probly run T6.
If you want more info, check out bobistheoilguy.com for an infinite amount of info about motor oil.
One last thing - people with more modern engines can run a full synth oil for insane miles (I have 14000 miles on the Amsoil in my Nissan Armada right now, for instance). None of us are saying that's a good idea in our Rovers. I haven't decided yet, but I'd imagine I'll change out my M1 around 7k miles. It would probly lubricate much longer than that, but I'm certain it'll be so contaminated that it should be changed by then.
There' s a lot of disagreement on this, and there have been threads in the past that got a bit heated.
There are basically three types of motor oils.
Dino - this is refined from dinosaurs that died millions of years ago. It is refined to be a lubricant (as opposed to being gasoline or plastic, which are also made from dinosaurs). This basic process goes back ~100 years, and the main change has been additives that make the oil more slippery and give it a wider viscosity.
Group III synthetic (basically all 'synthetic' motor oils besides M1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple) - also refined from dinosaurs that died millions of years ago. Refined in a modern process that makes it lubricate "much like" Group IV oil. It's not legal to call Group III oils synthetic in some countries, because they are just dino oil refined differently.
Group IV (and V and VI, but they are uncommon) synthetic (M1, Amsoil, and Royal Purple) - these are oils that were designed in a lab to be lubricants. They are manufactured instead of refined.
So, dino oil is the most primitive type of motor oil. It is a bit like using ethanol to fuel your car. It will certainly work and work well, but it isn't the 'best' choice for the job if maximum performance is your goal.
Rotella T6 is Group III and M1 is Group IV. There is much argument about how much difference there ultimately is between Group III and IV. I personally feel that a product designed from scratch to be a motor oil has to be better than a refined product.
The Rotella T guys advocate more frequent oil changes and say that fresh oil will keep the engine cleaner. They (accurately) say that semis have run T for millions for miles with no problems, so it's going to work fine in our trucks.
The synthetic guys say that you can run a synth longer before it deteriorates, it is slipperier and has a wider viscosity range than dino (which reduces engine wear), and they generally aren't as worried about fouling. Many of us also feel/hear a difference between the oils.
So, run whatever you want. My truck certainly got noisier when I ran Rotella T. I'd had M1 10w30 for the winter, and when I changed it to T the truck sounded worse, despite the fresh oil. Then when I changed it to M1 TDT, it got quiet again.
That alone is reason enough for me to run M1, although I'd certainly be willing to run T6 if I got it for a steal or something. 90% of the reason I'm running M1 TDT it's slightly thicker than T6. The other 10% is the whole Group III vs IV question. But if I lived in a cooler climate, I'd probly run T6.
If you want more info, check out bobistheoilguy.com for an infinite amount of info about motor oil.
One last thing - people with more modern engines can run a full synth oil for insane miles (I have 14000 miles on the Amsoil in my Nissan Armada right now, for instance). None of us are saying that's a good idea in our Rovers. I haven't decided yet, but I'd imagine I'll change out my M1 around 7k miles. It would probly lubricate much longer than that, but I'm certain it'll be so contaminated that it should be changed by then.
Last edited by dr. mordo; Aug 11, 2013 at 07:35 PM.
Haha no I just put lots of work into it. I have a leaky transfer case though :/
My tick....
Went away when I cleaned out the rocker arms and shafts.
I found most of the holes on the rockers sealed shut. Only a few were still open. I ran my parts washer through them and also picked at the holes with a pic. I was surprised to see the crud in there and how they hardened.
Went away when I cleaned out the rocker arms and shafts.
I found most of the holes on the rockers sealed shut. Only a few were still open. I ran my parts washer through them and also picked at the holes with a pic. I was surprised to see the crud in there and how they hardened.
I don't remember what member showed this item, but I have a tick that comes from this part. I'm not concerned about it since my truck runs awesome!
I'm embarrased, my engine is dirty here because I have not washed it since my last outing
.
You can track it down by using a ruler like Savannah Buzz always mentions. Fold the little piece of skin in the middle of your ear to cover the hole. Hold the ruler to that fold, then place the other end against the items you want to hear. When you hit the item ticking, it will be very evident in your ear. You can track down MANY sounds using this method.
I'm embarrased, my engine is dirty here because I have not washed it since my last outing
.You can track it down by using a ruler like Savannah Buzz always mentions. Fold the little piece of skin in the middle of your ear to cover the hole. Hold the ruler to that fold, then place the other end against the items you want to hear. When you hit the item ticking, it will be very evident in your ear. You can track down MANY sounds using this method.
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XCELLER8
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