When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks Extinct ( and others). Pretty clean Discovery. I’ve got about $4K in it. Including $1800 purchase, replacement rear diff, hubs and bearings, all new brake lines, new exhaust with new manifold bolts, spacers, gaskets and a few other items. What would you guys do? I’m leaning toward pinning the liners with the engine still in truck. I read a few right ups about it. Sounds like a bear of a job.
I would rebuild it...but I've built engines before. I have space and tools and know-how and a great machine shop nearby. Based on someone like Extinct saying that they've done pinning in-vehicle and that they wouldn't do it again, I'd never chose to do it in-vehicle. Then, if I've pulled the engine anyway, I'd do a rebuild. Top hat liners, renew everything with QUALITY parts, and I have a 0 mile engine. That's the decision that makes sense for me and my situation.
Thanks Extinct ( and others). Pretty clean Discovery. I’ve got about $4K in it. Including $1800 purchase, replacement rear diff, hubs and bearings, all new brake lines, new exhaust with new manifold bolts, spacers, gaskets and a few other items. What would you guys do? I’m leaning toward pinning the liners with the engine still in truck. I read a few right ups about it. Sounds like a bear of a job.
that depends on a lot of factors:
do you have a good machine shop near you
Do you have a shop to work in?
What is your proficiency with Machining operations? Drilling, tapping, Etc.
What is your risk tolerance if you mess something up?
unless you are very experienced mechanic, machinist, or engineer I would recommend taking the engine out and having a machine shop do the work. There was a forum member in the New Jersey area that would do it in the truck and he has gotten good reviews on the work.
After further review and mainly this forums trusted advice I’m gonna rebuild the motor. I rebuilt a 5.7 Hemi 5 years ago with a former neighbor. I do have the facilities to do this. Pretty mechanically inclined. Retired union carpenter, all commercial construction. I do have a great machine shop near me. Now I’m seeking advice on quality parts to do this. Any good kits out there that sell the whole parts package? Thanks in advance.
I had mine done by a shop on here, he only did the drivers side. RoverMasterTech or similar. Its been probably 3-4 years and the engine is silent. Best thing I ever did for a Disco. Said that the driver side is almost always the problem. After seeing it first hand it is a pretty simple task. The only special tool would be an angle drill to get into the space. Given what sounds like your experience it should be super simple. If it were me I would do in the garage. no reason to pull the engine, drop the oil pan and you can see what you going to do.Start w the drivers side, see if that is the issue and if necessary tackle the passenger side. He had done a bunch of them and it only took him a few hours.
Thanks RedRover75 for the valuable feedback. I’m going to fix the rest of the issues with this newly acquired Discovery and then drive it around the block and assess the engine tick issue further. Great info from knowledgeable members on this forum. Still get sucked into a rabbit hole while researching this issue. Some saying swollen radiator hoses is a symptom of slipped liners. Others saying it’s already too late, the block is trashed already and similar posts.
RedRover, what were your symptoms before you had the liners pinned?
I have pinned several. Slipped liners do not necessarily equal cracked blocks, blown hg or other forms of combustion gas leakage. However you have those (evidence by pressurized hoses) pinning the liners will not fix that. They can both be present or they can present individually. the one thing they have in common is they are almost always caused by an overheat event. Slipped liners primary symptom is the ticking at temperature, the aluminum block expands faster than the cast iron sleeves.
Its a little involved in the truck, I have done it both ways. You can do a better quality job out of the truck. Since it is newly acquired suggest you make sure you it is not got a combustion gas problem. I recommend starting with a pressure test of the cooling system.
Again, thanks Extinct for your valuable posts. I will move forward with the pressure test. The coolant tank does have a small amount of seepage at a seam area when at running temperatures . Gonna install the new tank and a new stat, bleed system, test. Take it from there. A pic from the ad when I picked it up for $1800.
Again, thanks Extinct for your valuable posts. I will move forward with the pressure test. The coolant tank does have a small amount of seepage at a seam area when at running temperatures . Gonna install the new tank and a new stat, bleed system, test. Take it from there. A pic from the ad when I picked it up for $1800.
Good looking truck. I hope you have a long happy time with her.
I strongly recommend an aluminum tank. There are a couple of other pieces in the cooling system that have AL replacements available. Cars4x4.com is one source to look at. There are others too.