Hello, thought for sure that it was the exhaust manifold gaskets. Replaced manifold gaskets, studs, spacers, cats to manifold gaskets and nuts and studs, new exhaust. 132K on a 2004 Discovery I recently acquired. Researched heavily and came up with one guy who replaced thermostat with a 180 and the ticking disappeared. I do have a leaking coolant tank I’m going to replace and ordered a new stat. Any ideas? Thanks. Video was too big. The ticking increases with acceleration.

 

Note the exact temperature it starts ticking (use an obd reader ). Check the oil pressure. Report back.

 

Just checked it. 143 F is when it starts ticking after cold start. Got an oil pressure tester coming tomorrow. Appreciate the response.

 

143 is too low to be fixed by thermostat and likely too low to be an oil pressure issue, likely a slipped sleeve from a prior overheat. When the D2 engine is heating up, first the coolant gets hot, then the oil. You can see this by observing one with an oil pressure gauge. Normal engine cold start achieves normal operating temp first, but oil pressure still reads high because the oil has not fully come up to temp and the viscosity is still high. Lets say on cold start it idles around 40 psi, normal operating temp it comes down to 30 ish, but after 30 minutes of driving it is down around 12-18. If yours is ticking at 143 degrees it either has a slipped sleeve or a walked cam bearing or broken oil pump gears. The last two will show up with an oil pressure test. I have seen 04's with slipped sleeves so bad they ticked straight from a cold start.

 

Thanks again for the very informative response. Will let you know about oil pressure when the tester arrives. Sounds like some major surgery.

 

Oil pump can be done in the vehicle. Not a huge issue at all. Getting the fan off the hub is probably the hardest part for most people.

Walked cam bearing can be diagnosed without engine removal but needs engine removal for cam removal/install. Install can be a bit of a pita. I use a long 4 ft section of 3/8 all thread and some echo/shindawia string trimmer upper side blade adapters to press in the pre-machined bearings from Turner in the UK. One against the block and another pushing in the bearing . Freeze them before install for easier fitment although it's not required. Just make sure they start in straight as you'll damage them if the get off kilter, easily damaged due to being so soft. Pay attention to the alignment of the oiler holes before removal, this is very important to have them aligned for install.

Slipped liners can be done in the vehicle but I'd rather not fight things like that when it's much easier to work on outside the vehicle.

 

you can do a cam swap in the vehicle....unsure about the bearings. It's not fun but it can be done. Rad comes out and ac condenser has to be moved out of the way but can be left hooked up. Done it twice (put new cams in when I did HG on both my discos and put new rads in so it wasn't too much extra to move the ac condenser at that point)

 

With enough fighting you can probably get the rear cam bearing out without removing the engine. I don't have the swear word capacity to give that a try.

With broom stick and mallet both the rear cam bearing and freeze plug come out in seconds. While on a work bench that is

 

I have installed new cam bearing and pinned liners in vehicle. Do not wish to do again. Only about 4 hrs to get engine out, better quality work done out of vehicle. Can even get machine shop to do if lacking tools/shop.

 

Just did the oil pressure test. Cold idle 50 psi.
@2500 rpms 35 psi

Running temp 15 psi @ idle. 2500 rpms 45 psi. Again, I appreciate all the help.