As detailed elsewhere I have had HELL with my rebuilt 4.6. It is running like a top now, but I hear a loud ticking from the engine and have had difficulty narrowing it down. I am confident that it is not a slipped liner because my shop put something on the lower lip of the liners when the block was redone and the cylinders honed, and I visually inspected them when I replaced the conrod bearings this weekend--the stuff they put on the lip of the liners is still there. If I hadn't confirmed that, I would think it WAS a slipped liner (just based on descriptions of symptoms I have read).

Basic history is: engine redone at shop, heads honed, valved checked and seated, new crower 229 cam, crank turned (.010). New bearings, rings, lifters, plugs, bolts, washers, etc. The push rods are my old ones but they are straight the ends are smooth. First horrific event was a stuck injector that cause a bent rod and destroyed piston (#8) during the initial 10 minute startup. I replaced that. Metal also destroyed my front cover and oil pump, so I replaced both.


Then I somehow dropped a bolt in the intake and destroyed the head; no other way to say it. I pulled the heads off of a spare engine, cleaned them (always a mistake), and slapped them on. Compression is good. I replaced the conrod bearings out of caution but they looked fine to me. The spare engine made some noises but nothing like what I am hearing now and I am pretty sure it was just slop from old main bearings. I am driving it now with the new 4.6 and have maybe 20 miles on the new setup. The ticking is getting quieter, but sounds louder at startup. After a couple of blocks, I can't really hear it. By the time I return home can't hear it all (parked next to a brick wall with the window down). Let it sit 10 minutes and I hear it again at startup.

So, aside from replacing the heads and conrod bearings, I have made sure that all of the conrod caps are facing the right direction (so the little rounded parts meet, per RAVE, in case one twisted. turning the engine manually, I can't hear anything--all smooth. I am as positive as I can be (following somewhat confusing RAVE instructions and having marked the pistons) that all of the piston heads, conrod caps, and conrods are facing the right way.


I always kick myself when the CLEAN things, and I am wondering whether it could be valves, or maybe the new lifters or cam, or even the crank. I am obviously still in the 500 mile break in. The piston (#7) took a hit from the bolt, and the face is not perfect, but it isn't hitting the valve and there are no metal shavings in it; I specifically tested the compression and it is high--no misfires. The conrod is arrow straight on number 7 (and I did vusally inspect all of them this weekend), and there is no sign of contact between the crank and the #7 piston. I suppose it could be a flex plate, too. It looked great (and was a replacement for a broken one) when I installed it not long ago, but that sound wouldn't go away, would it? I did turn the crank and hold a flashlight on the inspection hole, and see no cracks, but if it was cracked, they could just be around the retaining ring.

Rotella 15w40. Oil pressure is great. I use an oversize (wix 51459) filter, too. Oil passages are clear to my knowledge (and they should be; the block has very little run time after a bath at the engine shop).

I am just vomiting info here because I am a little lost. When I replaced the heads I looked for a spung crank bearing, sticky lifter, bent pushrod... nothing; they all looked and moved fine. I obviously don't mind pulling it all apart, but I want to do that with a purpose, so I am just seeking a little guidance on narrowing the problem down. I have laid under the truck and listened from the right and left, and all I can say is that it sounds like it is coming from the middle. WHen I do pull it apart, I have a replacement piston and conrod for #7, but I don't see that making a difference with good compression and no valve contact.

The Crower cam calls for stiffer springs and I did not do that because Crower had already pissed me off by taking weeks to ship an in stock item, and, discussing it with others, I decided valve float would not be an issue at the RPM range I live in, and that stiffer springs would be harder on the valves. It seems that stiffer springs might make the valves louder, but I am just guessing at that.

My purge valve is acting up and I jostled the splice on my driver side ABS sensor; other than that I have no codes.

Help.

Charlie V

 

Charlie, my man. I feel for you more and more every time you post. You've already listed pretty much every moving part in the engine, so I dunno about moving parts, but the first thing to come to my mind is an exhaust leak. Those can be very ticky or tappy sounding sometimes. That's what I would check for.

 

Might also try a "for the hell of it" seafoam to the engine and fuel system. Maybe a valve sticking or something needing a little help. Maybe mechanic stethoscope to pinpoint the location.

 

I haven't seen anybody really discussing them on this forum so maybe it doesn't happen with these lifters (although you do mention "sticky lifters" so maybe that's what you're meaning...)
But anyway, the hydraulic tappets on my bike will often tick after a rebuild if air gets into them. Over time the air gets displaced by oil so the noise eventually goes away, but I know that people have reported that it comes and goes for a long time before it eventually resolves.

 

That answer appeals to me!! Hahahahah

 

I'll try seafoam. I have a whole box of it. Hail Mary pass! Maybe it will work. Can't hurt.

 

You are a good, kind man. But never feel sorry for someone who drops a bolt in his intake. It is the kind of thing a person does to enemies! I wish I had a secretary or cop or helper to blame it on. Sadly, no one to blame.

I haven't been able to detect an exhaust leak but that does fit the goes away after it is hot theme. And I did reuse my manifold gaskets (because they had less then four minutes time on them, but that's not really the point since they crush). I have extra gaskets. Maybe I should double them like I used to. That's an easy thing to try. I'll do it!

It runs great. The ticking sound, though, is a tiny bit embarrassing on a bright red painted engine. Makes me want to park a long way away from people.

 

i know what will fix it.

Insert on of these
http://static1.squarespace.com/stati...3/?format=500w

right between the frame rails.

 

Hahaha. Yes that is the plan.

I'm just getting this engine perfect so I can sell it to someone who does not read these forums!

Imagine their surprise when they do the first head gasket job and see my initials carved in the number 7 cylinder face... in bolt threads!

Honestly, the performance difference between a gimpy, old 4.0 and a high compression 4.6 has me wanting even more. It is my nature. I spent last night reading about four port injector upgrades and their conical patterns and droplets burning from the outside in, porting heads, and swapping 4.0 pistons into 4.6 engines. TINKER TIL IT BREAKS. Sadly our computers are not the brightest and all of those things might give them a headache.

I also spent some of the evening looking at LM7 crank information

The devil unplugged my purge valve. I fixed that last night (pressed the connection on; highly technical work) and every code disappeared. The engine is so smooth I could put champagne on the intake and not spill a single drop. The ticking persists.

 

Oh no. You've caught the bug, Charlie.

Turn back now if its not already too late!

Or, or, long tube headers. No cats. Larger diameter exhaust with performance mufflers.

No, no! Save yourself!

And forced induction. Yes. Maybe twin turbo and shorty headers. Who need mufflers?

Stop it! Its so expensive!

And a manual transmission swap... Ahhh.

Noooooo *pulls out checkbook*

And now you understand my eternal struggle. I'm actually going to be switching lifters soon because of this. I found out that evidentally our factory lifters would make more power in the lower RPMs than the Rhodes I have since I'm using a more torquey cam than a high power cam. Speaking of, I need to shoot Erik a message or give them a call.

Good luck with your new found addiction. And just remember, long tube headers and full new exhaust systems fix exhaust leaks.