Ticking sound -- NOT A SLIPPED SLEEVE
#71
05-09-2016, 04:53 PM
Yeah, it LOOKS nice. 
Runs like .png "Poop")
at the moment.
3 inch Terrfirma MD springs plus 2 inch aluminum pucks (5 inches, total, but back to about 3.75 inches after bumper and winch weight) with +4 shocks and extended brake lines (all from Lucky8, if memory serves) and an adjustable panhard bar to keep everything nice and centered.
Wheels are just my stock ones (16 inch) with Matte black Flexidip paint that has been on for well over a year with no issues. I also have 2 inch aluminum wheel spacers (because my tires are a bit too big and were rubbing).
Next time I will get smaller tires, but these (Toyo Open Country M/T 33x11 point something)--even doing alignments with a tape measure in the driveway--just won't wear out.
Runs like at the moment. 3 inch Terrfirma MD springs plus 2 inch aluminum pucks (5 inches, total, but back to about 3.75 inches after bumper and winch weight) with +4 shocks and extended brake lines (all from Lucky8, if memory serves) and an adjustable panhard bar to keep everything nice and centered.
Wheels are just my stock ones (16 inch) with Matte black Flexidip paint that has been on for well over a year with no issues. I also have 2 inch aluminum wheel spacers (because my tires are a bit too big and were rubbing).
Next time I will get smaller tires, but these (Toyo Open Country M/T 33x11 point something)--even doing alignments with a tape measure in the driveway--just won't wear out.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 05-09-2016 at 06:25 PM.
#73
05-09-2016, 05:03 PM
I'm sorry you are having all this trouble with your Rover after all the money and work you've put into it.
-On the inside of the valve covers there are oil splash guards screwed to the top. Are you sure that they are screwed in tight?
- Have you tried to rotate the crank by hand and checking the rocker shaft and push rods for any play? I would rotate the crank about 1/8th turn and check, then another 1/8th turn and check, and keep doing that until you have completed the full rotation.
-Have you checked to make sure your springs are still to spec? I think I remember you saying you have an upgraded/non-stock camshaft installed so did the manufacture recommend different springs to go with it?
-If you are almost positive that the noise is coming from the top then maybe you can try and crank the truck with the valve cover off to see if you can pin point the location/cause of the knocking. You can probably pull the relay or fuse for the fuel pump,and the plug wires if you don't want the engine to turn over.
5.0 engine running without valve cover - YouTube
I've always thought it would be nice to have a set of these clear covers so I can inspect everything while the engine is 100% together and running.
Clear Valve Covers - start, idle, rev, shutoff - YouTube
-On the inside of the valve covers there are oil splash guards screwed to the top. Are you sure that they are screwed in tight?
- Have you tried to rotate the crank by hand and checking the rocker shaft and push rods for any play? I would rotate the crank about 1/8th turn and check, then another 1/8th turn and check, and keep doing that until you have completed the full rotation.
-Have you checked to make sure your springs are still to spec? I think I remember you saying you have an upgraded/non-stock camshaft installed so did the manufacture recommend different springs to go with it?
-If you are almost positive that the noise is coming from the top then maybe you can try and crank the truck with the valve cover off to see if you can pin point the location/cause of the knocking. You can probably pull the relay or fuse for the fuel pump,and the plug wires if you don't want the engine to turn over.
5.0 engine running without valve cover - YouTube
I've always thought it would be nice to have a set of these clear covers so I can inspect everything while the engine is 100% together and running.
Clear Valve Covers - start, idle, rev, shutoff - YouTube
I did turn the engine (battery only) with the covers off and didn't hear any clicking. But the rotation is so slow. I also turned it by hand, heard nothing, and did not feel any catch.
Oddly, I have started my engine with the upper intake and valve covers off... years ago... only catlike reflexes and a well-lubricated ignition stopped it from blowing up. Talk about a runaway! 0-6000 RPMs in about 1.5 seconds. Never tried that again. It is too bad that the upper intake is in the way of the valve covers. It would have probably saved me alot of work, in light of my obviously bad directional hearing.
#74
05-12-2016, 03:03 PM
Winching
If I had clear valve covers, I'd probably feel compelled to paint the rockers.
I did turn the engine (battery only) with the covers off and didn't hear any clicking. But the rotation is so slow. I also turned it by hand, heard nothing, and did not feel any catch.
Oddly, I have started my engine with the upper intake and valve covers off... years ago... only catlike reflexes and a well-lubricated ignition stopped it from blowing up. Talk about a runaway! 0-6000 RPMs in about 1.5 seconds. Never tried that again. It is too bad that the upper intake is in the way of the valve covers. It would have probably saved me alot of work, in light of my obviously bad directional hearing.
I did turn the engine (battery only) with the covers off and didn't hear any clicking. But the rotation is so slow. I also turned it by hand, heard nothing, and did not feel any catch.
Oddly, I have started my engine with the upper intake and valve covers off... years ago... only catlike reflexes and a well-lubricated ignition stopped it from blowing up. Talk about a runaway! 0-6000 RPMs in about 1.5 seconds. Never tried that again. It is too bad that the upper intake is in the way of the valve covers. It would have probably saved me alot of work, in light of my obviously bad directional hearing.
#75
05-12-2016, 08:16 PM
#77
05-12-2016, 09:21 PM
I asked because I saw this video and it seemed to do a nice job of at least narrowing it down. (Yes I know its a Diesel)
A tool for finding odd engine noises - The Fine Art of Land Rover Maintenance - YouTube
A tool for finding odd engine noises - The Fine Art of Land Rover Maintenance - YouTube
I thought the noise was from the passenger head. But I have swapped the heads along with valves and rockers, found no play in the push rods, changed the rod bearings, checked to be sure the crank isn't touching the piston skirts, checked the cam bearings... my videos tell the tale. Very loud sound. I should be able to spot something hitting or rubbing.
I'll take the engine out again this weekend and... I dunno. Look at it. Haha. I'll figure something out. I actually wish that whatever was making the noise would just break. I'm sure I have another (whatever it is). I have another whole freaking engine that doesn't make that noise.
#78
05-13-2016, 07:21 AM
Faulty/ collapsed cam follower, rocker arm pushrod insert/s worn, were the followers replaced with genuine ones or generic GM ones? The other issue that can arrise after machining deck heights and cylinder heads is that lifter clearances become too tight . Have a read https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&s...97D6vqVO8gixkQ
this article that he posted has mostly to do with adjusting lifters so I don't know what hes thinking, really. But I didn't want to ask. Obviously he thinks that the preload has changed since you have swapped so many parts, but I don't know anything about that, myself. You aren't going to adjust your lifters but if you at lease check your clearances you may find something. That new cam may not be syncing/vibe'ing with the stock valve train components. The mechanic that advised you to upgrade the springs....why don't you give him a call and tell him about the tapping noise and see what he thinks.
this article that he posted has mostly to do with adjusting lifters so I don't know what hes thinking, really. But I didn't want to ask. Obviously he thinks that the preload has changed since you have swapped so many parts, but I don't know anything about that, myself. You aren't going to adjust your lifters but if you at lease check your clearances you may find something. That new cam may not be syncing/vibe'ing with the stock valve train components. The mechanic that advised you to upgrade the springs....why don't you give him a call and tell him about the tapping noise and see what he thinks.
I posted the article because someone stated that you cant adjust the preload. Since you may have changed components or had the heads milled the preload could have changed.
Did you check the rocker arm to shaft fit? That was the source of my valve train tick. The rocker arms a made of a soft alloy that get embedded with metal particles. The metal particles ware down the rocker arm shaft.
When I did my cam I needed to replace some springs because they were out of spec. I bought the Crower springs and retainers but they required the heads to be machined (valve seat needed to be bigger and machined lower). The machinist that did my head used Chevy small block springs, there were a little stringer than the factory springs, didn't require machining and a lot cheaper. With the 229 cam the factory springs are ok to use.
Last edited by acamato; 05-13-2016 at 07:28 AM.
#79
05-13-2016, 07:37 AM
From the RAVE:
Valve spring free length = 48.30 mm (1.90 in).
Valve spring fitted length = 40.40 mm (1.59 in).
Spring load - valve closed = 339 ± 10 N (76 ± 2.25 lbf).
Spring load - valve open = 736 ± 10 N (166 ± 2.25 lbf).
#80
05-13-2016, 07:52 AM
Baja
There is a section on setting lifter preload but you need to use shims.
When you check valve springs, you also need to check the spring load. My springs were within spec for height, but were out for spring load.
From the RAVE:
Valve spring free length = 48.30 mm (1.90 in).
Valve spring fitted length = 40.40 mm (1.59 in).
Spring load - valve closed = 339 ± 10 N (76 ± 2.25 lbf).
Spring load - valve open = 736 ± 10 N (166 ± 2.25 lbf).
From the RAVE:
Valve spring free length = 48.30 mm (1.90 in).
Valve spring fitted length = 40.40 mm (1.59 in).
Spring load - valve closed = 339 ± 10 N (76 ± 2.25 lbf).
Spring load - valve open = 736 ± 10 N (166 ± 2.25 lbf).