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tie rod ends

Old Feb 5, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by tweakrover
if someone can get anything that fits anywhere on a land rover at advance, more power to them.
You can get quite a few Land Rover parts at advance. Tie rod ends aren't one of them though. At least not that I've seen.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:32 AM
  #22  
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Yes they have tie rod ends, not on the shelf, but overnight, I just paid for mine, will be here tomorrow. I got under the truck this morning and at least one it completly gone, I can move the thing up and down there is so much slack. I'm just doing them all so one trip to allignment shop. As for my concern with the grease nipples getting damaged, they all face up except the one on the steering box arm , which is higher up, so I don't think I'll have a problem. Thats what I get for asking dumb questions before I even look closely.http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_446420294___
 

Last edited by tweakrover; Feb 6, 2010 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:46 AM
  #23  
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I think the confusion in the name is the fact that a tie rod end is made of a ball joint, I don't think a ball joint is a specific connector in a chasis but a type used in different locations.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 03:27 PM
  #24  
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Cool, last time I looked, albeit a long time ago, they didn't list them. Let me know if they have the castellated nut as illustrated. I prefer them over the nylocks.
I may order one from Amazon to look at. They're $27 total from them.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #25  
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I have AllMakes brand tie rod ends for $18.19/ea plus USPS shipping.

I'm almost out of the RTC 5870 but expect more next week.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:07 PM
  #26  
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too late, I've already paid for them.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 06:57 PM
  #27  
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just changed them finally, well the front two, which were the loose ones. what a job required a torch, 2 large pipe wrenches and a 5 foot pipe to get the one broke loose.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 07:23 PM
  #28  
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tweak, if you want to align the toe-in yourself, get two pieces of 1" flat stock banding (stiff) & make a telescopic piece to fit between wheel edges.

The manual said 0"--1/4" TOE OUT

I pulled into my driveway straight (don't worry about the steering wheel angle.)

I set mine for 1/8" toe out - then drove around the block & straight again.

I then adjusted the drag link to align my steering wheel.

Had it checked @ alignment shop a week later (new tires) & it was good.

luck,greg
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:25 PM
  #29  
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you may try parts from autopartsway.ca
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 11:43 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by tweakrover
As for my concern with the grease nipples getting damaged, they all face up except the one on the steering box arm , which is higher up, so I don't think I'll have a problem.
If you ever want to completely eliminate the possibility of the zerks breaking off why not just go with flush fittings and get a needle adapter for your grease gun...I think the fittings are here (not exactly sure which one you'd need):

http://www.saeproducts.com/flush-grease-fittings.html
 
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