Time for...
#11
#12
Brake job
Spike, I can't stress this enough:
You must totally clean the pistons before pushing them in.
Any dirt on the surface will cut the seal and they will leak.
Push the pistons in just enough to lift the caliper off, then use brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the surface.
I have even used the tooth paste as an abrasive polisher.
SD
You must totally clean the pistons before pushing them in.
Any dirt on the surface will cut the seal and they will leak.
Push the pistons in just enough to lift the caliper off, then use brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the surface.
I have even used the tooth paste as an abrasive polisher.
SD
#13
All I know is a guy used ceramic pads on his E-250 and had new rotors put on at the same time.
Mind you on the Ford's you have to repack the wheel bearings when you replace the rotors.
He had to replace the rotors again in less than 2 months.
On the Ford's the rotors last a year because they are thick.
Keep in mind that we are all contracted, that means we own the van and FedEx pays us to deliver their packages.
So the less I we on brakes the more money that goes into our pocket.
Guys have experimented with different brake pads and getting a extra week or two out of a more expensive set of pads is not worth a big difference in price.
We also need brake pads that we can get today if we need them today, not a week from now, not waiting because they are on backorder, today.
When you go though as many brake pads as we do you learn alot about brakes and rotors and we dont care about dust, just (in this order) price, life and noise.
And I can tell you that NAPA's most expesive pad and their least expensive pad have a life span with only ~2 weeks difference.
Mind you on the Ford's you have to repack the wheel bearings when you replace the rotors.
He had to replace the rotors again in less than 2 months.
On the Ford's the rotors last a year because they are thick.
Keep in mind that we are all contracted, that means we own the van and FedEx pays us to deliver their packages.
So the less I we on brakes the more money that goes into our pocket.
Guys have experimented with different brake pads and getting a extra week or two out of a more expensive set of pads is not worth a big difference in price.
We also need brake pads that we can get today if we need them today, not a week from now, not waiting because they are on backorder, today.
When you go though as many brake pads as we do you learn alot about brakes and rotors and we dont care about dust, just (in this order) price, life and noise.
And I can tell you that NAPA's most expesive pad and their least expensive pad have a life span with only ~2 weeks difference.
#14
Spike, I can't stress this enough:
You must totally clean the pistons before pushing them in.
Any dirt on the surface will cut the seal and they will leak.
Push the pistons in just enough to lift the caliper off, then use brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the surface.
I have even used the tooth paste as an abrasive polisher.
SD
You must totally clean the pistons before pushing them in.
Any dirt on the surface will cut the seal and they will leak.
Push the pistons in just enough to lift the caliper off, then use brake cleaner and a toothbrush to clean the surface.
I have even used the tooth paste as an abrasive polisher.
SD
#15
You don't have to take the caliper off. Just clean it the best you can with it on, push them back and drop in new pads.
It is also the quality of the rotors. Mine had new brakes 10 months before I bought it. A week in, I started rubbing metal. I dropped the Autozne pads in, not knowing anything else, and I went through 3 set before going to the EBC (saving enough for them). I have been totally pleased with how they have worked.
PS, if and when you do the rotors, you will find the Ford a walk in the park. You have to pull the axle on the rear, take the hub off and unbolt the rotor from the back of the hub. Wheel bearings are done at this time. Fronts are a little easier as you just have to pull a flange and then pull the hub. No long axle shaft to remove. The brakes are simple, but a lot of stuff to take off (rotors).. Pads are rediculuosly simple. pull tire. clean, pull pins, remove pads, clean, press pistons, drop new pads in, replace pins, bleed and you are done. (well, you should put the tire back on too)
It is also the quality of the rotors. Mine had new brakes 10 months before I bought it. A week in, I started rubbing metal. I dropped the Autozne pads in, not knowing anything else, and I went through 3 set before going to the EBC (saving enough for them). I have been totally pleased with how they have worked.
PS, if and when you do the rotors, you will find the Ford a walk in the park. You have to pull the axle on the rear, take the hub off and unbolt the rotor from the back of the hub. Wheel bearings are done at this time. Fronts are a little easier as you just have to pull a flange and then pull the hub. No long axle shaft to remove. The brakes are simple, but a lot of stuff to take off (rotors).. Pads are rediculuosly simple. pull tire. clean, pull pins, remove pads, clean, press pistons, drop new pads in, replace pins, bleed and you are done. (well, you should put the tire back on too)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Landys4ever
Discovery II
41
08-10-2009 01:06 PM
Skibum232
New Member Introduction
0
11-20-2007 05:46 PM