You can monitor the 02 sensor output with a scan tool (elm327 from Amazon is a good choice - $5 and gives good data), Same with the MAF, but occasionally they provide output signal but still give trouble.

If you like the truck, I would have a good indy shop do the engine, or maybe just swap in a lower mile engine. I can recommend a good indy shop down in Greenville, SC, or a good place in central VA to get a good engine.

The great thing about your truck is it being one owner and almost exclusive dealer service. I have two with 220k+ on it still running great. You probably do need a new set of HG based on your description, about $1500 for that job typically. Depending on service history might want to get a new waterpump, thermostat, hoses, coolant bottle, cps, and starter while you are at it.

I am sure plenty of folks will have recommendations on shops to use in your area or nearby.

Let me know if I can help, I am in Lynchburg VA.

 

only way to know for sure on the plug gap is to check them yourself or have them checked in front of you. but if you trust the shop who did the work, then you probably trust they did them correctly.

major coolant leaks pas the head gasket can cause misfires but with only a minor leak as you described this doesn't sound like your issue. small chance it could be but doesn't sound likely.

another thing to check would be all the wire looms in the engine bay. i had one of the plastic holders break on one of the wire looms which allowed the wires to rest against the exhaust manifold, melt and cause misfires.

when was the last time the front cover was done?

 

Hi Eric. I’ve been watching this thread but haven’t had a chance to reply until now. You’ve gotten a lot of ideas and advice from a lot of experienced and well-intentioned forum members, but please don’t be scared off.

First, DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK if the Service Engine Soon light is flashing. A flashing SES light indicates catalyst-damaging misfires.

That said, the likelihood that the truck needs an engine rebuild is very, very, very, very small. Take a deep breath. Don’t panic.

Forum members have told you it could be this and it could be that causing the misfires. It could be any of those things, but before leaping to a worst-case scenario conclusion I recommend you start with a more careful diagnosis. The probability that multiple misfires are caused by a headgasket failure, a slipped sleeve or a cracked block is small. Those problems most often result from the truck driven while overheated.

You wrote that you are not mechanically inclined and are without a garage. That may very well mean it’s time or nearing time to sell your Rover and move on. A 19-year old Discovery with 178,000 miles needs a “Rover whisperer” to keep going. But I recommend first solving the misfire problem; otherwise you’ll get little to nothing for it if you sell.

You say the truck has new plugs, wires and coils. The codes from last June are now irrelevant, even if they end up now being the same as before. It’s important to know whether the codes are all on one side of the engine (i.e. all even-numbered cylinders or all odd-numbered cylinders). And although you likely have misfire codes you may also have codes indicating vacuum leaks, which are very common. Vacuum leaks can cause misfires, as can bad O2 sensors. As someone else wrote, diagnose, diagnose, diagnose.

It would be great if there were a forum member near you who could help you out but off the top of my head I don’t recall anyone in your area. I’d help if you were closer.

 

Hello again. I really appreciate all the advice you guys are giving. Yesterday I swapped in a used MAF sensor I ordered from Ebay (same part number as original) but it didn't seem to make much difference. Several forum members suggest current codes to diagnose the problem. Would getting the codes read by a shop like Auto Zone be enough? I ask because I have seen the reader offered by Atlantic British goes for $400 and others on Amazon are a little as $10. There must be a reason.

Last weekend I gave into the Dark Side and test drove a new Discovery and a Range Rover Sport. My wife thought the Disco drove more like a car but was too big for just the two of us (and eventual Basset). The Range Rover Sport really was nice. As much as I did not want it to be, I did enjoy driving a new Rover. I am still debating things, but will likely opt for a new Rover in the next month or so. Sad, but they are nice.

 

Keep in mind that JE Robins makes a KILLING selling their re-manned motors. Just a quick stroll through their webpage is enough to make someone drive a brand new disco2 right off the assembly line and into one of their bays. YOU DO NOT NEED TO SPEND 15k ON A MOTOR. Sorry for the caps, but those guys **** me off. Here's the thing... If you're asking if it's time to get rid of the disco, you're not someone who should ever pay attention to even the mumbling of a 15k rebuild. There are alternatives to keep your disco running for a reasonable rate. I bought a 2003 d2 with a blown motor, and dropped a 99 P38 motor in it with about 90k on the clock, and it's been good so far (2 years ago). The motor cost me 2100, and 1500 for labor and new plugs/wires/etc.. After getting the truck for 2k (no rust at all on the frame, and in great shape otherwise), I did the brakes, ball joints, new o2's (cause of the blown motor), and I was good to go, for about 6k. I could have paid less for a crappier disco, or lesser used motor, but I've never felt that I haven't gotten my money worth. In fact, for what I paid, and rovering into my 3rd year now, I feel like I'm winning.

 

If I can find a good independent shop in northern VA I'll have them look at it. I am in Reston, VA. The one I used in the past went out of business. What are the thoughts on the Atlantic British rebuilts?

 

 

I know this is a loaded question, but you guys are the ones who would know. If I decide to sell my Disco II what would be a fair asking price given the condition I've described? It has 179k miles, body is in good shape and there appears to be no rust damage on the frame.

 

I think your problem is likely bad ignition coils, about $30 plus some labor cost or about 1 hr DIY.

Running rough, truck is worth about $1500. In great shape with zero problems, about $4500.

Good luck.

 

I reviewed my vehicle maintenance paperwork (I save everything) and see that the spark plugs have been replaced 3 times, wires once. The latest was 20k miles ago and that included the new wires. I see nothing about the O2 sensors. I swapped in a used MAF sensor and nothing changed. As Atlantic British recommends they be replace every 90k mile I am suspecting them. I just about to order a set of four ($229) when I saw an after market set for $79. Can I trust aftermarket on these or should I stick with original equipment?