Can you guys check out this video and see if the chain looks too loose? I have a replacement kit from Atlantic British, but I’m a bit unclear about removing the cam bolt without it moving. I have a wood block in the engine now, but I need to align the timing marks on the wheels so I’ll have to remove it and I was only able to block the engine by turning it until I got the wood block just right. Maybe it’s possible to loosen the cam bolt now while the wood block is in there, then remove the wood and I’ll put the crank bolt back on to turn the engine until the wheels align, then just pull the wheels off (pulling the crank bolt off again too), but hopefully I can manage that without turning the engine any more after the marks are aligned. I understand that one tooth off and it’ll destroy the engine. I’ll open the front cover oil pump cover and see if the gears are broken.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...38/#post548912

This may help you some.

I would definitely replace it. Replace the oil pump as well, whether the gears are cracked or not.

 

Once you crack the tension on the cam gear bolt you can rotate the crank again to get the engine back to TDC. It's ok it the gear moves during the initial bolt-loosening process, just return the gears to where they were before you get the cam bolt too far off. Because the gears are keyed it's pretty hard to screw this up if you realign the marks on the two gears after they are loose and before either of them are removed. You can only misalign the cam and crank if the marks aren't lined up when you fit the gears. It will be obvious however so just make sure the marks are aligned once again after the new gears are on. To confirm there will be no problems you will want to rotate the engine through TDC twice BY HAND. This is extra hard to do smoothly with the plugs in, and another reason it makes sense to remove them when doing this type of job.

 

Thank you both - I read through that guide (great work by the way). The only issue is that my power steering pump is removed, so I’ll have to restrain the cam some other way - maybe just a screwdriver. Since the spark plugs are still in, there’s a lot of resistance turning the engine and it’s probably impossible to do it from the harmonic damper. I’m on jack stands so it’s hard to get under the hood at all right now even with a step ladder. I’m hoping I can manage to get the shaft bolts off and on and off and on when needed without turning the engine when the chain isn’t holding them together.

One other question I’ve got is if the spacer on the harmonic damper can be put on either way or if it has to go on one way specifically. When I pulled the damper, I didn’t know it was on there and it fell, so I’m not exactly sure which way it was on, but it might have marks from the surfaces it was mounted to that I’ll check. Do you think I should install the speedi sleeve? There might’ve been an oil leak from the front cover front oil seal on the crank shaft before - I put a new seal in the new cover and I’ll grease the inside of the seal when it goes back on the crank.

Thanks again, I’ll clean everything (big mess of old gasket, oil and crud everywhere) and get the chain removed according to your instructions - the engine hasn’t had oil in it for a few months and it’s pretty dry. Is it bad that I’ll need to turn it by hand a bit to get TDC and check that it’s rotating smoothly once the new chain is on? Also, do I have to do anything like drop oil through the spark plug holes to get oil there quicker when it starts up again? I packed the oil pump with Vaseline (but filled the area to the side of the gears as well) and planned to drop oil on the timing chain. I also planned to pull the fuel relay when I’m going to start it again to prime the new pump. I have a new oil pressure gauge installed so hopefully that’ll help me determine it’s working properly. Big job for me!