Trail package Aux lights
#1
Trail package Aux lights
My 04 has the port/dealer installed Trail Package, which includes the LR front driving lights. My 00 had the same type package. Both have the extra switch in the cockpit for the lights, but neither worked. I read up on them last time, and got many confusing answers, all to which pointed to a mystery relay box. On the 00, I opened up that box and still could not figure anything out. What I did to get those to work was to just wire a relay and fuse that was triggered by the high beams, so they came on with those. As all my other rigs had and have xenon, the LR lights were just too dim for me,especially on the dark mountain roads I often drive on. That worked fine for the past couple years, and song with some better headlight bulbs (not fake xenon or colored) I was happy.
I'm looking for more of a clean instal on this rig though, and would like to have it hooked to a switch, preferably a LR factory switch, inside.
Has anyone done this and how so? Any thoughts? I'm thinking a cruise control switch would be best, as it could always stay on, so if fired by the high beams I would not have to push the switch each time, but would be ale to have them off if needed. I could also use an extra fog light switch. I'm not sure on the extra workings of the port installed switch, so not sure if I could use that. Would be nice if I could though.
Another question, are the wires there from the factory, or are they put in when the option is added? I figure for a port or dealer install, it would be a pain to run the wires, so I was thinking they might be there. The rave isn't helping me, but I'm also to a wiring diagram expert. Would it be possible to find the wires coming through the firewall for the switch, add in an extra fuse and relay, and just bypass the factory black box with the mystery relay? Hook it to the battery for power and high beam for signal? Anyone that has done this or knows more about it, please let me know. Also, any ideas on which type of switch would be best would be great. I would really rather not have a tacky looking toggle, and be able to use a factory one, which I have extras of.
I'm looking for more of a clean instal on this rig though, and would like to have it hooked to a switch, preferably a LR factory switch, inside.
Has anyone done this and how so? Any thoughts? I'm thinking a cruise control switch would be best, as it could always stay on, so if fired by the high beams I would not have to push the switch each time, but would be ale to have them off if needed. I could also use an extra fog light switch. I'm not sure on the extra workings of the port installed switch, so not sure if I could use that. Would be nice if I could though.
Another question, are the wires there from the factory, or are they put in when the option is added? I figure for a port or dealer install, it would be a pain to run the wires, so I was thinking they might be there. The rave isn't helping me, but I'm also to a wiring diagram expert. Would it be possible to find the wires coming through the firewall for the switch, add in an extra fuse and relay, and just bypass the factory black box with the mystery relay? Hook it to the battery for power and high beam for signal? Anyone that has done this or knows more about it, please let me know. Also, any ideas on which type of switch would be best would be great. I would really rather not have a tacky looking toggle, and be able to use a factory one, which I have extras of.
#2
I am only guessing here, but I think it would be fair to assume (like the seat heaters) the wires are already there. And you need to install the switch and relay to active them.
All those blank spot around the edge of the dash panel pull out and can be replaced with LR switches, (I grab them at the bone yard) some are double pole some are momentary.
I don't think LR would leave all those spots for switches only to have mechanics just stringing wire anywhere under the dash.
I would think our resident schematic expert will chime in and my be able to tell you exactly what wires you want, my eyes have gotten to old to read all those lines.
All those blank spot around the edge of the dash panel pull out and can be replaced with LR switches, (I grab them at the bone yard) some are double pole some are momentary.
I don't think LR would leave all those spots for switches only to have mechanics just stringing wire anywhere under the dash.
I would think our resident schematic expert will chime in and my be able to tell you exactly what wires you want, my eyes have gotten to old to read all those lines.
Last edited by drowssap; 04-12-2013 at 07:13 AM.
#3
I was thinking it would be easier if they were not there from the factory, but looking around a bit you are probably correct. Seems like a waste though, seeing as though the only ones from the factory with the lights were the G4 models I think.
I have spare switches, and I'm fine with using the factory switch in there too, but if memory serves me correct that is a momentary one, and if hooked to the high beams you would need to press the button each time you go back to low beams.
I have spare switches, and I'm fine with using the factory switch in there too, but if memory serves me correct that is a momentary one, and if hooked to the high beams you would need to press the button each time you go back to low beams.
#5
You can imagine the fun if the wrong harness went on at station G23 on the asembly line, and at station S56 the lights had no place to connect to - yank that truck off at the end of the line, dismantle, re-work. Profit margin plumments.
As for the RAVE, I just see the front fog light wiring. You will note that the BCU is involved, the dash switch tells the BCU to operate the relay in the underhood box, etc. Some lights also involve the IDM module on back of the fuse panel.
Slaving a relay to the high beams is looking better and better.
As for the RAVE, I just see the front fog light wiring. You will note that the BCU is involved, the dash switch tells the BCU to operate the relay in the underhood box, etc. Some lights also involve the IDM module on back of the fuse panel.
Slaving a relay to the high beams is looking better and better.
#7
#10
I found this, which I think I used last time to put the relay in. I remember taking apart that box too with the hard sandy stuff in it. I just think there has to be an easier way to bypass that box and still have the dash switch active.
www.discovery2.co.uk Driving / Spot Lamps
www.discovery2.co.uk Driving / Spot Lamps