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Transfer Case Bottom Cover Leak

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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 05:23 PM
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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 05:28 PM
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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CharminULTRA
The fuel pump on D2s typically goes bad between 100-150k miles. Replacing mine fixed my issues with needing to hit the starter twice.
Have had four trucks over 215k, none needed a fuel pump.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Casualfriday
Update: at the beginning of July, I had an Indy LR shop drop and reseal the transfer case. They actually had to drop and reseal twice as they saw it was still leaking after the first time reinstalling. I’ve put about 1000 miles on it since (mostly around town) and it’s been dry.

This Friday I bailed on my father in laws birthday to go to my first MAR (he wanted me to go, wife is still pissed). Drove down (125 miles), paid, set up camp, and got about 2 hours of green and yellow trails in low range before I realized the tcase was leaking again. Unfortunately I didn’t have the fluid or tools with me to just keep it topped off and was in a bad mood as I just paid $2k less than 3 months ago to have it good to go for MAR so I ended up just packing up and went home. I’m sure I could have kept driving for the weekend and been fine but I’m an anxious guy and figured better safe than sorry. Huge bummer though.

Anyway it’s not leaking from the intermediate shaft anymore. I think it’s leaking from the main input seal where it connects to the trans and definitely on the rear cover plate. Pictures below for reference. What do y’all think? Take it back to the shop and have them redo it again? Throw some blue devil in there and hope for the best? I think I can remove the rear cover plate without removing the tcase to throw some rtv on there but the tcase has to be dropped in order to replace the main input seal which is where the majority of the fluid is coming from.
I would make them do it or refund your money, who was the shop? Consider Sportscar workshop in Richmond area going forward. ROAV sponsors.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2025 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Extinct
I would make them do it or refund your money, who was the shop? Consider Sportscar workshop in Richmond area going forward. ROAV sponsors.
Yeah that’s what I was thinking, thanks for the backup. The owner is a good guy so I’m hoping he’ll take care of it. I’m up in Northern VA, I’ve heard good things about Sportscar workshop and would try them out if I was closer.

Too bad I left early, I hoping to meet you Extinct! Could have shown you the nice new see through plug on my transfer case you made showing how low the fluid was in it lol. Next time!

 
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Old Jun 3, 2026 | 11:07 AM
  #16  
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Just wanted to throw a follow up to this thread - the indy shop did the right thing by dropping and resealing the tcase again at no cost to me. They blamed the paper gaskets from AB, said they would no longer be using those in the future and used RTV on everything instead the second time around. It's been almost 9 months and another couple thousand miles, and the tcase does seep but not bad. No active drips, it just looks like it's seeping from either the mainshaft oil seal or the front output RTV seal wasnt perfect. I just keep my eye on the level at this point.

Regarding XRAD's request for a writeup on the AB long block experience, I'll probably due a separate thread on that but the update summary is that it has been solid so far after 3K miles. I've had no issues with the block itself, it runs and sounds great. No misfires or codes relating to engine.
The only two issues I've experienced with the truck since the swap is a very very mild "rumble" at idle (every few seconds you feel a mild rumble through the seat) but this existed before the engine swap so it's either normal or something else - I suspect the IACV may be dirty inside so I plan on removing and cleaning. The other issue is cooling and it's really not bad at all but I'm hyper aware of overheating due to the investment of the new engine. For example it was 75 degrees out yesterday as I drove home in traffic through Tysons Corner for 45 minutes, it got up to 196. No spikes or anything weird, the ultragauge clearly shows the thermostat opening and closing for a while and then it stays open after a certain point and temps just creep up slowly from there. I know I know, 196 is not overheating but anything close to 200 gives me anxiety. I've got Extinct's inline therm mod on there with 180 degree stat, hoses are new, new borg warner fan and clutch, the radiator looks pretty clean/new (previous owner told me they replaced it roughly 2-3 years ago), and coolant is less than a year old and is the prestone all vehicle green. I suspect the radiator is clogged or cheap and just isnt working as good as it should per Extinct's writeup.

Just did an oil change and sent the oil away for testing so I'll post the AB long block writeup once I get that back. Interested to see the initial results and the change over time on subsequent oil changes. I imagine the first I'll try to post all results as I do oil changes on the new thread.
 
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Old Jun 4, 2026 | 07:42 AM
  #17  
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Usually it is the center shaft o-ring that weeps, it woudl have been easy to do while it was out but its a bitch now and not worth another pull.
 
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