How did you actually check the transmission level? Was it running and was it warm? Did you pull the plug on the side of the transmission pan? Was the fluid burnt or red?

Did you just buy this vehicle? Seen maybe a used car seller change the fluid and not fill it properly cause they already have an issue.

Finally is the CEL light on? Does it come on when the vehicle is turned to position 1?

 

Would be concerned that your battery voltage while underway (if checked with a scanner or meter) is low. Possibly corrosion on lots of places where big wires join. These added up voltage drops can make electronics not do well. 13.3 is not a good level underway. Of course, this may just be one of several things that can be wrong at once, Rovers are known for "multi-tasking".

 

R4life,

checked properly per your question. Ive owned it for 4 1/2 years. fluid is not burnt. I'm using quality fluid. Redline High Temp. Hoping my statement below stays true.

Buzz,

I started with the cheapest and simplest trouble shooting first. cleaned the battery terminals and wire leads. went for a test drive and it seems to tentativly done the job. Just had to reset A/C to F.

 

The under hood fuse box is also a place where larger sized wire connections can need attention. And of course, automotive batteries are designed to die in three years or less usually, so the battery companies can grab the cyclical replacement business.

 

Spike,

I just replaced the battery as I have a rovertym bumper coming in and plan on getting a winch.

I am leaning toward the alt now due to what I am seeing on my scan gauge.

Alt is still working but it is on the low side and I still have the issue with the M showing up. Funny though, while driving to work this morning with cruze on worked fine and "S" showed up anytime I pushed mode button. when I got into in town driving "M" shows up when mode button is pushed.

This is why I am leaning toward the alt now.

Any suggestions on where to by alt?

Cheers

 

Savannah Buzz,

thanks for your input... I checked all the connections and they are good. I keep my engine bay clean. about the only thing I found was the gray corrosion on the old terminal. cleaned them but no joy. Now that I am thinking about it there has been a very slow decline in the voltage over a period of about 14 months.

Any wisdom on which alt to go with?

Cheers

 

Buy a brand new alternator from Advance Auto or from a Rover parts supplier.
The rebuilt ones are junk.
One second thought, you have a Bosch alt, those rebuilds may be better quality than the DI rebuilds which are crap.

 

The mass market rebuilds seem to have a high failure rate. Would suggest another alternative would be rebuild by a local starter/alternator shop, these guys know what they are doing, and rebuild everything from units for big earthmovers to outboards to any known car. And they will stand behind their work.

 

Thanks for your input Spike and Buzz!... I order one from British Parts of Utah and I am going to get my old one redone... suspect it is probably just the voltage regulator.

On another note my Rovertym wide face bumper came in yesterday. I am currently out of town and won't be in until tomorrow evening... sure you can guess what I will be doing this weeked. Thanks again to all my fellow rover folks for the shared wisdom.

cheers

 

Sure,
First go and have your charging system retested and get back to us with the numbers. Do you have any check engine light, if so what are the codes, and did you check the fluid level while the engine was running?