Hey gents!

My wife and I are thinking about buying a travel trailer for a couple month trip out to Colorado Springs where she'll be 'shadowing' a guy in the Agriculture Industry.

It looks like we'll be buying a 16 or 18 footer that weighs between 2,500 and 3,000 pounds.

Have any of you ever towed?

If so, I have some questions... I am a freaking NEWB, and I really, really need your help. I don't want to hurt my Disco!!! If not for my NewB behind, please give me some pointers for the sake of my innocent Disco.

THANK YOU all so much!

1) Would a 3,000lb trailer make a Disco perform weird, or put me at a greater risk of losing control? I've never towed ANYTHING before.

2) These small trailers don't have breaks on their axles- is that going to eff me up?

3) Some have one axle, and some have two- should I care? I suppose the two-axled jobs are better balanced, and would give the Disco a better time?

4) Which Disco would be better equipped to pull this trailer for thousands of miles? The '04 HSE (has the self leveling button on the rear end) with the 4.6L & ACE, or the '00 SE with the 4L.

5) I know you can over-heat your tranny if you use too high of a gear- so if you're pulling 3,000 pounds behind you, at what RPM is it safe to drop it into "Drive"?

6) Is there a special kind of Tranny fluid I should replace with the stuff in my tranny before the trip? It's going to be May-July, so it will be warm.

7) How about brakes? The brakes on my Disco are so nice compared to how my Jeep and pickup used to be that I almost tear up when I have to come to a stop. I really don't want to hurt them! Should I flush the fluid in there as well, or put any sort of heavy duty pads or rotors on? Anything to keep them especial cool?

8) I have also NEVER driven in mountains... I know that you should use your engine compression to slow you down when possible- but are there any special braking methods I should keep in mind?


I'd be lost without you guys.... THANK YOU!

 

According to the owner's manual, any trailer over 1500 lbs needs its own brakes to be towed by a Discovery. The standard brakes at the wheels are designed to stop the truck at its full gross weight of 6017 lbs. Their not designed to stop a trailer also.

A single axle trailer likes to pivot on the axle like a teeter-totter making for a terrible towing experience, IMO. 2 axles distributes the weight better, rides smoother and is a lot easier to control.

Make sure you have the tranny a 3rd gear when towing, not drive. You'll destroy the transmission trying to tow in drive. 4th gear (overdrive) is not designed to handle the extra weight of a trailer behind the truck. Don't plan on being the first up the hills when pulling a trailer. Keep your speed between 55-60 on the highway and you'll be fine. Coming from the east it will be gradual climb up to Colorado Springs elevation, no major hills that I know of.

I would recommend using the 04 to pull the trailer. The extra power from the 4.6 will make for a nicer trip. You also have to remember that the Springs is at 6000 elevation, you're going to lose some power because of the thin air.

There are a number of us that live in Colorado and would gladly give you a hand with anything you might need once you get out here. It's only about an hour to Colorado Springs for me.

 

Pat-No worries.
Use the '04, bigger engine and level ride.
You will not need trailer brakes but they will help.
Like AK said tow in 3rd gear, if you dont you will overheat the tranny because she will be "hunting" for the right gear all the time.
Keep your road speed no higher than 65.
Load as much of your gear as you can into the truck and whatever you need to carry in the trailer place over to just infront of the axle.
To much weight in the back of the axles will raise the tongue of the trailer and the back of the truck making for a squirrly ride.
You need to pretend that it is a snow covered road that you are driving on as you will need much more stopping distance.
www.atlanticbritish.com has the plug-N-play trailer wiring harness for your truck, DO NOT go to U-Haul to get the trailer wiring.
As for going down mountains, you can shift into 2nd gear and use engine braking if you need to.
The ECU will not let you over rev the engine, your max speed in 2nd gear will be under 45mph.
Light steady brake pressure is the best way to slow down.
I pulled 5400lbs with my DI a month or so ago, no problem.
Get the trailer, practice driving it around Ionia.
If you want help in leaning how to back it up and the like let me know and In would be more than glad to come over and help you guys, I have been towing trailers since I was 14.
The tandem axle trailer will be heavier than a single axle trailer and will also be harder to turn/back up/park.
Dont fill the fresh water tank before your trip if you dont have to, water weighs 8.5lbs per gallon and if you have a 20 gallon fresh water tank...not to mention that the water will slosh around and make the trailer unstable when turning/stopping.
We used to be members of the West Michigan Travel Trailer Association, all that really means is that we went camping once a month all over this great state.
There are alot of nice used trailers out there.
Make sure that the wheel bearings are packed with fresh grease, that the trailer brakes check out and that the tires are good as well as the spare and jack and lug tool.
Make sure that the LP tanks are tuned off before you drive, as well as all the windows and roof vents closed and the batteries are charged. (yes campers tank batteries, 12v deep cycle batteries, at least one)
If you wont be where there is a AC hook up then buy a small generator, Harbor Frieght has them for cheap.
Like I said, any questions or help let me know.

 

There is a reason that the owner's manual says that you need trailer brakes over a certain weight. In an emergency stop the trailer brakes really make a huge difference. Without brakes on the trailer you have an extra 2500 - 3000 lbs pushing the truck requiring that much more braking force. Essentially you're trying to stop twice as much weight as the brake system was designed to handle. I am surprised that a trailer in that weight range doesn't have brakes anyway. I don't remember what the limit is but there is a point where once a trailer's gross weight passes it requires brakes. It's just a safety matter.

A tandem axle trailer is a lot easier to back up than a single axle. Because it takes a little more effort to turn a tandem axle you're a lot less likely to jack-knife and cause damage to the truck and trailer. Driving forward you'll never notice a difference between a single and tandem axle trailer except that there is less shock be transferred to the truck from the trailer. If you can find a trailer with torsion axles, go that way. My tandem axle trailer has torsion axles and it's incredible how little of the shock from the trailer hitting a bump is transferred to the truck. With the torsion axles my trailer essentially has 4 wheel independent suspension. It's very nice.

 

I did not mean for him to not use electric brakes.
And you are right AK, a trailer of that size will have them.
Back in 2005 when I delivered FEMA trailers to Mississippi and Louisiana I used a F-250 and pulled 26 and 28 ft trailers at 70mph without electric brakes, but I do not recommend this unless you are experienced.
Northern Indiana to Baton Rouge LA and back in 36 hours BABY!!

 

I may have misunderstood what you were saying. Sorry. I would trust an F250 to handle a trailer without brakes more than I would a Rover.

I made it from Alaska to Denver (3500 miles) in 98 hours towing my trailer. Truck and trailer together were 15,000 pounds. I was really thankful I had invested the money into and exhaust brake when I went through the Canadian Rockies.

 

These FEMA trailers were weighing in at 10-12,000lbs, the truck was not rated for that but we did it anyway.
Man that was a fun gig.
If I ever do it again it will be with a diesel.
And not a 4x4.