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Tricky Dick - Coil Pack Replacement SAI

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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 09:51 PM
  #1  
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Default Tricky Dick - Coil Pack Replacement SAI

Well, I decided to replace the coil packs and ignition wires on Tricky Dick. Yes, I knew I needed to remove the intake manifold and yes I knew it was going to be a ton of fun. Now...multiply that by a factor of 100 due to SAI.

I have been looking across YouTube for a walk through on the coil pack replacement for a truck with SAI. I came across one but, the guy is all over the place, another where the guy said to drain the coolant system, and one by AB saying they will have a follow up video for trucks with SAI (but, I can not find it).

While I am not worried about tearing Tricky Dick apart, I am significantly worried about getting him put back together and overlooking something.

Questions I have:

1. Where is the video for changing the coil packs for a truck with SAI?
2. Should I just buy Gerry's coil pack relocation kit because this is going to suck big ******* with SAI?
3. Adopt an Asian dwarf to get his/her hands back there with out removing all the crap?
4. Set Tricky Dick on fire and ram it into my neighbors house with the barking dogs and collect the insurance?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 11:13 PM
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I have SAI and have replaced the coils / wires -- it sucks but it is not that bad. Just remove the SAI cross tube thingy and you'll be fine
 
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Saturnine
I have SAI and have replaced the coils / wires -- it sucks but it is not that bad. Just remove the SAI cross tube thingy and you'll be fine
did you remove the SAI from the exhaust manifold or just unbolt the brackets?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2018 | 11:27 PM
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Nah, just leave everything but remove the tubes (the alum ones) that go across the motor on the backside -- you'll have space to get to the coil.

If you are removing the upper IM, you have to unbolt the brackets in order to remove out of the way. On my rover, the passenger side SAI bracket was behind the coolant pipe that secured on the same stud (coolant pipe goes to the heater core) which was really irritating. Has to remove the coolant hard pipe which caused me to loose coolant / bleed the system. Once the IM is outta the way, you have tons of room to get to the coils.

Soo.. I'd go with #4
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Saturnine
Nah, just leave everything but remove the tubes (the alum ones) that go across the motor on the backside -- you'll have space to get to the coil.

If you are removing the upper IM, you have to unbolt the brackets in order to remove out of the way. On my rover, the passenger side SAI bracket was behind the coolant pipe that secured on the same stud (coolant pipe goes to the heater core) which was really irritating. Has to remove the coolant hard pipe which caused me to loose coolant / bleed the system. Once the IM is outta the way, you have tons of room to get to the coils.

Soo.. I'd go with #4
I really don't want to bleed the coolant again but, it sounds like that pipe has to come off...I will use some clamps on the heater core side and hopefully not get the air pocket down in the core.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 04:57 PM
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I was not planning on taking the truck apart till the new parts showed up but, I was bored and decided to pull it apart. Truth be told, I had all this off in about 1 hour 30 minutes.





Bad news...looks like I need to replace the heater inlet pipe as the gasket is shot to hell






 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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There is no big deal removing sai tubing
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 06:47 PM
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I replaced my SAI tubing with reinforced nylon, much easier to get out of the way when you need to.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2018 | 06:57 PM
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While you've got it that far apart ditch that OEM plastic nipple that feeds onto the passenger side valve cover. Either install an FV308 PCV valve or at least get yourself a 1/4 thread 3/8 nipple. That OEM plastic nipple is famous for snapping off.

SAI metal pipe is the only thing that ever needs to come off really. I'd replace the studs that secure the SAI stacks to the intake manifold with bolts and that will make future removal a breeze vs fighting with the studs (easy to do with the intake manifold off).

I tinkered around in the heat today with bleeding two D2's all by myself with just a long lead and a switch. First one was a customers that needed a new MC. Second D2 was my 99 that I wanted to do a brake fluid flush on. Although my wife is sexy as hell bleeding the brakes by myself was SO much faster and truly painless. Adding that switch/long lead to my trail box, and even tossing in the little rubber line I used to collect the brake fluid easily without any puddles.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
While you've got it that far apart ditch that OEM plastic nipple that feeds onto the passenger side valve cover. Either install an FV308 PCV valve or at least get yourself a 1/4 thread 3/8 nipple. That OEM plastic nipple is famous for snapping off.

SAI metal pipe is the only thing that ever needs to come off really. I'd replace the studs that secure the SAI stacks to the intake manifold with bolts and that will make future removal a breeze vs fighting with the studs (easy to do with the intake manifold off).
Thanks for the feedback, I will do both items you recommend. I will have time this week while parts are in transit to clean things up and do all the little bits.

Another thing I am going to do is replace the throttle body heater line with a single hose to the reservoir (I removed my TBH and hooked existing hose into new hose)

I am considering doing a flush of the injectors but, will need to look into that more and what else needs to come off..
 
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