tune kit for disco
#1
10-31-2021, 08:46 PM
tune kit for disco
Does anyone have any suggestions on a chip our tuning product I can buy for my 2003 Disco 2 I am trying to improve performance in any way possible. Thanks so much in advance!
So far I ordered 2' one lift kit and terrafina wheels. Any help on performance improvement from a tuning chip or anything else I can do to add power or HP. Thanks so much!
So far I ordered 2' one lift kit and terrafina wheels. Any help on performance improvement from a tuning chip or anything else I can do to add power or HP. Thanks so much!
Terrafirma Alloy Bead Lock Ready Wheel - Anthracite - 7 x 16 - ET20 - RA2108TFA
#2
10-31-2021, 11:07 PM
Stuff like that doesn't really exist for these vehicles. Only company I know of that tunes ECU's is Tornado in England. Involves sending your ECU to them. Unfortunately, can't just plug in a laptop or handheld device and adjust parameters or throw in a "canned" tune even, not on Thor V8's at least. Apparently the ECU isn't very tuner friendly, or nobody bothers because the market isn't that big in the first place since most people just want to throw in a lift and big tires and other off road oriented things.
As far as other "performance" stuff goes, Magnaflow I believes makes an exhaust kinda oriented toward the performance crowd, Terrafirma has a middle muffler delete, there are headers that are apparently for a D1 but can fit a D2 with some modification and custom exhaust from collectors back. People have made their own "cold" air intakes the old fashioned way, but they don't really do much besides let more hot air in and lose the ability to mount a snorkel. The 4.6 equipped discos and P38's had an air box lid with a slighty larger snout where the maf connects, as well as a different maf housing with a slightly larger diameter where it connects to the lid. Not 100% on whether the outlet part of the maf or the intake tubing itself was larger, but the tubing was a different design from the 4.0s. I see you have an 03 though, so already have that.
There's some camshafts on the market that people apparently either love or hate. I'd never even consider one unless I had the ability to precisely log various points of data like AFRs and the means to adjust fuel and timing accordingly, which is not possible at this time. Sure, you can monitor timing somewhat, and could hook up a wideband o2 as well, but how are you gonna make any adjustments if needed? A lot of people swear that the Bosch ECU in disco 2's can handle it and adjust accordingly, but I'd be wary of those statements. Not doubting it can, but it's only to a certain point that they can adjust. I'm just not a "throw a cam in and hope it works" kinda guy.
I'd love for someone to prove me wrong though. I wouldn't mind an excuse to blow a little more money on a little cam.
Beyond that there's stupidly expensive crate engines that can go up to 5.2 liters or so, and equally stupid expensive ported heads, mostly from British companies. Being a British engine (that's based off an old Buick design) that never had a big following in America, most of the stuff you'll find as far as aftermarket engine components or otherwise are gonna come from British companies, especially since they use them in performance apllications over there.
As far as other "performance" stuff goes, Magnaflow I believes makes an exhaust kinda oriented toward the performance crowd, Terrafirma has a middle muffler delete, there are headers that are apparently for a D1 but can fit a D2 with some modification and custom exhaust from collectors back. People have made their own "cold" air intakes the old fashioned way, but they don't really do much besides let more hot air in and lose the ability to mount a snorkel. The 4.6 equipped discos and P38's had an air box lid with a slighty larger snout where the maf connects, as well as a different maf housing with a slightly larger diameter where it connects to the lid. Not 100% on whether the outlet part of the maf or the intake tubing itself was larger, but the tubing was a different design from the 4.0s. I see you have an 03 though, so already have that.
There's some camshafts on the market that people apparently either love or hate. I'd never even consider one unless I had the ability to precisely log various points of data like AFRs and the means to adjust fuel and timing accordingly, which is not possible at this time. Sure, you can monitor timing somewhat, and could hook up a wideband o2 as well, but how are you gonna make any adjustments if needed? A lot of people swear that the Bosch ECU in disco 2's can handle it and adjust accordingly, but I'd be wary of those statements. Not doubting it can, but it's only to a certain point that they can adjust. I'm just not a "throw a cam in and hope it works" kinda guy.
I'd love for someone to prove me wrong though. I wouldn't mind an excuse to blow a little more money on a little cam.
Beyond that there's stupidly expensive crate engines that can go up to 5.2 liters or so, and equally stupid expensive ported heads, mostly from British companies. Being a British engine (that's based off an old Buick design) that never had a big following in America, most of the stuff you'll find as far as aftermarket engine components or otherwise are gonna come from British companies, especially since they use them in performance apllications over there.
#3
11-01-2021, 03:55 PM
Recovery Vehicle
#4
11-01-2021, 08:37 PM
Camel Trophy
Cam, head work, and headers are about the only options.
In response to the cam scepticism, it can definitely take it. I've had both the Kent H180 which I put about 30k miles on, as well as one of the Crower Stage 3 cams. Both ran really well. The Crower was a bit big, but they have smaller cams. The Kent H180 was a really nice fit.
Beyond that, porting the cylinder heads and long tube headers also make a noteworthy difference. My '03 had both before the #3 cam bearing walked out. Cat back exhaust is not worth anything unless you have other modifications requiring higher flowing exhaust.
The "cold air" intake is a good mod, but at this point in my life I would still retain the factory airbox. The factory box works just fine with the cold air intake. I've run them together and been pleased.
And beyond that... Gearing is about the only thing will make a difference, but these things are already geared pretty low. If you do highway driving be careful not to go too low with the gearing.
None of these modifications make a massive difference, but it is noticable and I think a combination of cam/ported heads, intake tube, and headers/exhaust does make for a more enjoyable driving experience.
For exhaust I ran 2.5" from the headers into a single 3". I do recommend installing some high flow catalytic converters (factory are high flow, but it's easier to fit universals), but alternatively you can get 2.5" resonators on eBay that look very similar to a "spun" style cat. They pass a visual inspection. You can get 90* O2 spacers for the rear O2s that will keep converter codes from showing up. I also really like a Flowmaster FlowFX muffler. This is not a traditional Flowmaster/chamber style muffler. It's more like a Magnaflows style. They have a nice deep tone, but very mellow. I have these on my Silverado as well as my Tahoe and I'm very happy with them. Not obnoxious to drive.
In response to the cam scepticism, it can definitely take it. I've had both the Kent H180 which I put about 30k miles on, as well as one of the Crower Stage 3 cams. Both ran really well. The Crower was a bit big, but they have smaller cams. The Kent H180 was a really nice fit.
Beyond that, porting the cylinder heads and long tube headers also make a noteworthy difference. My '03 had both before the #3 cam bearing walked out. Cat back exhaust is not worth anything unless you have other modifications requiring higher flowing exhaust.
The "cold air" intake is a good mod, but at this point in my life I would still retain the factory airbox. The factory box works just fine with the cold air intake. I've run them together and been pleased.
And beyond that... Gearing is about the only thing will make a difference, but these things are already geared pretty low. If you do highway driving be careful not to go too low with the gearing.
None of these modifications make a massive difference, but it is noticable and I think a combination of cam/ported heads, intake tube, and headers/exhaust does make for a more enjoyable driving experience.
For exhaust I ran 2.5" from the headers into a single 3". I do recommend installing some high flow catalytic converters (factory are high flow, but it's easier to fit universals), but alternatively you can get 2.5" resonators on eBay that look very similar to a "spun" style cat. They pass a visual inspection. You can get 90* O2 spacers for the rear O2s that will keep converter codes from showing up. I also really like a Flowmaster FlowFX muffler. This is not a traditional Flowmaster/chamber style muffler. It's more like a Magnaflows style. They have a nice deep tone, but very mellow. I have these on my Silverado as well as my Tahoe and I'm very happy with them. Not obnoxious to drive.
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