Invalid, you did what instructions warned against doing. Do a web search to find hole diameter for tapping threads. Your copper T will be marginal at best due to wall thickness. Location in hose to radiator OK but should install sensor in inline adapter as Alex_M did.

......

 

Yes but that was for the Bosch gauge. It was incredibly pathetic. It had a short capilary tube and the temperature was 100F off (put it in boiling water and it only read 110F). So it was completely unusable. I think I mentioned this before. I am using an electrical gauge by Hotsystems from Amazon. The instructions actually say to use a tee fitting....

Link to it:
I did some more research and apparently I can wire in a capacitor (or resistor I can't remember which) that would correct the 30F difference. I have to calculate exactly which rating capacitor/resitor to use. So far, this is the most appealing fix to me.

If that doesn't work then I will do Alex's inline mod.

 

Likely says to install in a T fitting as GlowShift install also says. Temp sensor location requirement doesn't change just because it's electric. Your chosen location will never give a true indication of coolant temp.
Water Temperature Sender Attachments

......

 

Did the Alex_M style temp gauge mod and my temps are getting closer to what the ECM reads. Once all the air is out of the system I think I should be right on the mark. Thanks for that tip number9. Now to the oil pressure gauge. Was about to install it today, but then I realized that the included nylon tube is way too short (6FT tube 1/8"). For this reason, you might be compelled to use an electronic gauge. I am using a mechanical gauge because the look of the gauge reminds me of the one I had in my 1999 Isuzu Trooper (RIP).....

I am going to Orchard Supply tomorrow to get a longer tube (I think 10FT should be good) and I will hopefully install it by the weekend. I will make a full write up on the oil pressure gauge as soon as it is successfully installed so you guys can install one as well (if you'd like).

 

So I am back with an update.

I went to install the oil pressure gauge today with a longer tube and found that using a mechanical gauge in this application is quite difficult. Also, the capillary tube has to be ridiculously long to reach the front cover. Because of this, I bought an electric gauge. I recommend you do so as well.

I plan on installing this tomorrow, so stay tuned...

 

Wires are usually much easier to route and/or change length of than OP & capillary tubes. Glad to hear the temp gauge in operational. Thanks for the update.
......

 

MUCH easier, as well as more accurate. And they'll never leak. And if you accidentally cut one it doesn't pour oil and water all over the inside of your truck.

 

I am trying to install the gauge now.
Can this plug be used for the oil pressure gauge? It is a few inches under the oil filler neck.
I can't remember if it is a head bolt or not.

 

So I have found that it is pretty much impossible to get to the M12 plug on the front cover without actually removing the front cover itself.

The alternative is to use the M20 plug. It is very accessible but you will need an adapter to 1/8 npt.

I will report back once it is fully installed.

 

Guys, I finally did it. And here is how:

1. Drain your oil. Doing an oil change before you install the oil pressure sender will make this job a lot easier because the filter is in the way.

2. Wiring:
Get an add-a-fuse and put it on the cigarette lighter fuse under the dash. It is F32. Use a 2 amp fuse. I ended up using a 5 amp because my coolant temp gauge and voltmeter are on this circuit. Wire that up to your desired location in the truck. Use a hinge stud from the fuse box door as a ground. Then get your signal wire from the gauge and bring it towards the fuse box. Get some extra wire (I used 18 gauge) and feed it through the hood release cable grommet. Reach up in the dash and you will feel the cable. Bring that into the compartment and connect the two together. Under the hood, bring that signal wire down to the oil filter area. I went around the perimeter of the engine bay to get there. Wire that to the sender once you install it.

3. Making the adapter (Optional)
I couldn't find an M20x1.5 pitch to 1/8 NPT adapter anywhere. And I mean anywhere (well actually, eBay had one but I couldn't wait). So I decided to get my own. to do this part, you will need:
-21/64 twist bit
-powerful drill or drill press (used my Milwaukee)
-vice or a c-clamp with a bench
-1/8 NPT thread tapping tool
- 20mmx1.5 pitch bolt (Length doesn't matter but get the shortest you can. Mine is a 40mm long bolt)

First, drill a hole straight through the bolt with the 21/64 bit. Use plenty of oil when cutting so you don't warp the bolt or bit. Then, tap the threads. Go as far as your tool lets you go. Be careful when doing this because my drill whipped around quite a bit. Then install the sender on the bolt as tight as you can. Clean off all of the metal shaving from the bolt with oil and a paper towel.

4. Installation:
Reinstall your drain plug with a new washer. Take the oil filter off. Let it drain, then remove the bolt on top of it. I think the size in 1". Note the tightness of the bolt so that you do not over-tighten the sender. If you have an oil cooler, try using a tee. I don't have one so I am not sure how to do this mod with an oil cooler. Put 2 rounds of Teflon tape on the end of the threads of the sender/adapter assembly. Screw it on until it won't go anymore. Then get a wrench and SNUG it up. Do not over tighten! You will strip the threads on the engine! Apply some RTV around the sender assembly for added assurance. Connect the wire you routed earlier and install your filter of choice. Fill her up with your favorite oil. Start her up and check for leaks and make sure that the gauge now works. Top off the oil as necessary.

Please ask me any questions you have. Also, please share your experience with this mod and any tips you have as well.