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  #71  
Old 03-20-2016, 12:45 PM
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More pics...
 
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  #72  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Joemamma1954
You are very welcome. If you have not done so already, at least get you that OEM 180 thermostat, My temps were too high for me and that helped considerably. I even went further this last weekend and installed the inline thermostat and now my temps are a steady 180-185. I installed my oil cooler I got off Ebay a couple of months ago and it was pretty straight forward, since everything is already prepped for it. The only thing that raised my blood pressure was hooking up the line to the hole right above the oil filter, it is at a slight angle and it was getting dark and almost crossed threaded because I was going straight in instead of at the slight angle. Don't expect to see lower coolant temps, but keeping cooler oil to your bearings, cylinder walls, cam bearings and valves, make for a happier engine.
I have come across a couple of posts and members describe higher coolant temps with adding oil cooler; another member from TX actually replied with cancellation of oil cooler mod in regard to this. Now, it did persuade me to put it off with my 194-203 temps for now, but with an inline setup and operating temps in high 180s, there is room for a slight increase in temps. I'm thinking of doing both in 1 shot before Summer time hits down here. I would high-5 myself if I was able to get a new pump-gear set on there at the same time. Thank God this truck had brand new tires when I bought it because I woulda started off backasswards with meats and lift-kit only to have nothing left over for the $$ thousands I have in repairs and preventative maintenance ALREADY.
 
  #73  
Old 03-21-2016, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by chubbs878
I have come across a couple of posts and members describe higher coolant temps with adding oil cooler; another member from TX actually replied with cancellation of oil cooler mod in regard to this. Now, it did persuade me to put it off with my 194-203 temps for now, but with an inline setup and operating temps in high 180s, there is room for a slight increase in temps. I'm thinking of doing both in 1 shot before Summer time hits down here. I would high-5 myself if I was able to get a new pump-gear set on there at the same time. Thank God this truck had brand new tires when I bought it because I woulda started off backasswards with meats and lift-kit only to have nothing left over for the $$ thousands I have in repairs and preventative maintenance ALREADY.
I have heard the same as well. I think for any 4x4, a deep sump for the motor is better than an oil cooler. Both of my Toyotas came with them and at some point, I would want to get one for D2. This way, all of the oil stays in the engine and doesn't affect other fluids. Sure, the oil temps will be a bit higher than with an oil cooler, but I would prefer this method.

I don't remember who made it, but some company was selling a deep sump for the LT230. The same concept for the engine would be ideal (in my opinion).

This was the first oil change that I did using the big mobil 1 filter (301?). I noticed that it took 1 quart extra than before (using M1-204)
 
  #74  
Old 03-21-2016, 12:46 PM
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I am an advocate for deep sump pans also. But you need to remember, with a deep sump pan, either for engine or tranny you need to have the pickup tube extended the same amount as the sump is lowered. I installed a deep sump on my Allison on my 2500 Silverado,(school bus pan made by Allison for only 55.00) and it came with an extended pickup tube to take advantage of the deeper sump. Otherwise you are only adding oil that sits an inch or two below the pick up.
I would check on the members who had higher temps on their oil cooler setup, and they may have used a transmission oil cooler, which is twice as large as the factory oil cooler, therefore covering up twice as much of the radiator space. Mine did not increase temps at all(did not lower them either).
I went with the recommendation from respected LR technicians, of whom have dealt with these engines for several decades, along with trusted engine builders that build these engines for racing applications.
Just some thoughts to ponder.
Rock on, Dudes

By the way, nice install on the gauges. FYI on the bolt you drilled for the sending unit, if it leaks, there us an o-ring that is on the plug and the oil cooler tube that goes in that hole. This is the reason some guys just drilled out the plug and tapped it since it has a place for the o-ring. And of course, if you do decide to add an oil cooler, you would need to move the sending unit you installed. That is not a problem since guy have removed the factory sending unit and installed a T then reinstalled both units on the T.
 

Last edited by Joemamma1954; 03-21-2016 at 12:54 PM.
  #75  
Old 03-21-2016, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoCam
I have heard the same as well. I think for any 4x4, a deep sump for the motor is better than an oil cooler. Both of my Toyotas came with them and at some point, I would want to get one for D2. This way, all of the oil stays in the engine and doesn't affect other fluids. Sure, the oil temps will be a bit higher than with an oil cooler, but I would prefer this method.

I don't remember who made it, but some company was selling a deep sump for the LT230. The same concept for the engine would be ideal (in my opinion).

This was the first oil change that I did using the big mobil 1 filter (301?). I noticed that it took 1 quart extra than before (using M1-204)
I came across that little finned deep sump the other day and whichever site it was wanted over $200 for it... not that it matters
 
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