Hey now! Let's not bring bacon into this! I like bacon. And... I never said I was right. Sounds to me like everyone else is saying that they are.. I guess those who would die for ARP studs must have them in all of their vehicles. If they don't then why??? How dare they! They need to park all of their vehicles until they do! Stretch bolts are so much more inferior, especially since they are in most all vehicles...

Actually, I may go ahead and do the studs the more I think about it. Especially if I take the heads off and find out they've been changed before. May prevent any stripping of threads in the block. I understand the reasoning behind them... I just don't feel like they are a make or break part that needs to be added.

 

You can use puppy leg tendons for all I care...whatever works. Guessing, but I think the appeal for the studs is that it makes it a simpler job, and perhaps why so many engine builders use them. As far as longevity and performance...probably about the same.

 

If you get the studs, lucky8 had the best price I could find.

They didn't include the ARP ultralube, but O'Reilly sells a tube for about $8 IIRC.

 

Puppy leg tendons.. Can I get those in straight thread or NPT?

All joking aside, I did find an interesting write up that makes so much more sense..

 

Studs are reusable too.

Also, you will find many opinions on ideal/safe torquing. I went 25-50-75 and have had 20 miles of trouble-free operation

 

20 miles.. that's funny!

Did you torque them each at 25, then each at 50, then each at 75 instead of doing each bolt/stud individually?

 

All to 25, then all to 50, then finish at 75.

 

Thanks Pinky!

 

Fyi:

Lots of forum posts say 20-40-65.

Lucky8 said he goes 20-40-80.

I compromised.

 

you could have saved 30 post by going to ARP website.

"I did find an interesting write up that makes so much more sense "

During engine assembly or maintenance, a bolt must be installed by torqueing it into place. Due to the head bolt’s design, it has to be rotated into its slot in order to engage the threads and secure it into place. This process creates both twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the cylinders within the engine’s begin accumulating load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.

By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening. A stud can be threaded into a slot up to “finger tightness,” or the degree to which it would be tightened by hand. Afterward, the is installed and a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely. Because the stud is torqued from a relaxed state, the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt. This ultimately translates into higher reliability and a lower chance of failure.


This an exact quote from the ARP catalog