Upper Engine Rebuild
#31
05-08-2013, 10:09 AM
you could have saved 30 post by going to ARP website.
"I did find an interesting write up that makes so much more sense "
During engine assembly or maintenance, a bolt must be installed by torqueing it into place. Due to the head bolt’s design, it has to be rotated into its slot in order to engage the threads and secure it into place. This process creates both twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the cylinders within the engine’s begin accumulating load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.
By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening. A stud can be threaded into a slot up to “finger tightness,” or the degree to which it would be tightened by hand. Afterward, the is installed and a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely. Because the stud is torqued from a relaxed state, the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt. This ultimately translates into higher reliability and a lower chance of failure.
This an exact quote from the ARP catalog
"I did find an interesting write up that makes so much more sense "
During engine assembly or maintenance, a bolt must be installed by torqueing it into place. Due to the head bolt’s design, it has to be rotated into its slot in order to engage the threads and secure it into place. This process creates both twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the cylinders within the engine’s begin accumulating load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.
By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening. A stud can be threaded into a slot up to “finger tightness,” or the degree to which it would be tightened by hand. Afterward, the is installed and a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely. Because the stud is torqued from a relaxed state, the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt. This ultimately translates into higher reliability and a lower chance of failure.
This an exact quote from the ARP catalog
Everyone else could have saved 30 posts by just letting it be...
#32
05-09-2013, 08:53 PM
Finally made it down to removing the valley pan gasket. That thing was nasty. Also had a few other nasty things, like the coolant pipe from the intake manifold to the heater core. Looks like the O-ring had been seeping some also.
Anyone ever powder coat their pipes, intake, valve covers, etc? I've got a complete setup and I'm thinking about it...
Here's where I'm at so far...
Removed:
Alternator
Viscous fan
AC compressor
Upper and lower intakes
Valve covers
Drivers side front bracket
Coils and wires
All Hoses
Tomorrow I start on the heads removing the rockers and rods, and pull the heads. I would have gotten that done today also, but ran out of daylight. It's been a slow process due to the rain we've had here lately and my work schedule. Seems like mother nature knows when I have some spare time...
Like I said before, the one thing I wish I would have done as an absolute first step is to pressure wash the engine. Would have made everything so much less gunky and probably made a few of the bolts, etc easier to find/see.
Yay! Moving right along!
Anyone ever powder coat their pipes, intake, valve covers, etc? I've got a complete setup and I'm thinking about it...
Here's where I'm at so far...
Removed:
Alternator
Viscous fan
AC compressor
Upper and lower intakes
Valve covers
Drivers side front bracket
Coils and wires
All Hoses
Tomorrow I start on the heads removing the rockers and rods, and pull the heads. I would have gotten that done today also, but ran out of daylight. It's been a slow process due to the rain we've had here lately and my work schedule. Seems like mother nature knows when I have some spare time...
Like I said before, the one thing I wish I would have done as an absolute first step is to pressure wash the engine. Would have made everything so much less gunky and probably made a few of the bolts, etc easier to find/see.
Yay! Moving right along!
#36
05-25-2013, 06:58 PM
Figured I'd update the thread..
Heads have been removed and sent to the machine shop for a good cleaning, valve lapping and grinding, and my new valve stem seals put in.
I also dropped off my upper and lower intake manifold to them so they could also dip them in their cleaner. They have 2 seperate vats... one for carbon steel, the other for aluminum...
I'll have them back by mid next week so I can start the rebuilding process! YAY!
Heads have been removed and sent to the machine shop for a good cleaning, valve lapping and grinding, and my new valve stem seals put in.
I also dropped off my upper and lower intake manifold to them so they could also dip them in their cleaner. They have 2 seperate vats... one for carbon steel, the other for aluminum...
I'll have them back by mid next week so I can start the rebuilding process! YAY!
#37
05-31-2013, 08:50 PM
Heads, upper and lower intake, rocker assemblies, and valve covers back from the machine shop. Started to clean the mating surfaces again (already cleaned them a few times, but since I'm getting ready to put the heads on, it wouldn't hurt.. and it started raining. My luck. Looks like I'll be doing that tomorrow.
I was lucky enough to get the oil separator out of the valve cover all in one piece. Looks like it was sludged up so bad that I couldn't even blow through it. Probably the reason why my valve cover gaskets were leaking oil, along with the bolts that were loosening due to vibration. Cleaned up the oil separator and will be using some blue locktite on the bolts to make sure it doesn't happen again. Got some black RTV so I'll put a small bead around the outer race of the valve cover gaskets to give double assurance.
Got every thing for the thermostat mod also so will be doing that along with the engine rebuild..
Hope all goes well....
I was lucky enough to get the oil separator out of the valve cover all in one piece. Looks like it was sludged up so bad that I couldn't even blow through it. Probably the reason why my valve cover gaskets were leaking oil, along with the bolts that were loosening due to vibration. Cleaned up the oil separator and will be using some blue locktite on the bolts to make sure it doesn't happen again. Got some black RTV so I'll put a small bead around the outer race of the valve cover gaskets to give double assurance.
Got every thing for the thermostat mod also so will be doing that along with the engine rebuild..
Hope all goes well....
#38
06-01-2013, 06:58 AM
I just finished my 99. Kinda scary pulling it apart but I took lots of pics and notes . I like you am very meticulous about everything I do with the Rover. I went with stretch bolts . Didn't have $200 for ARP studs But stretch bolts are working fine. Blow out the head bolt holes with compressed air to prevent hydrolocking the bolts.
Took me a few weeks but I wasn't able to work on it everyday.
You got this
Took me a few weeks but I wasn't able to work on it everyday.
You got this
#39
06-01-2013, 10:50 AM
#40
06-01-2013, 12:10 PM
