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Upper Hose T Connector Broke

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  #31  
Old 03-20-2012, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ATLDisco
Search "inline thermostat mod" and it pops right up. Just look for his sig on the right.

He lists, with links to buy, everything that you need with instructions.

Amazon has all the parts, but gave me free shipping, except on glow shift part. Not sure which one you need but they're all on there for pretty cheap. Shipping part might be helpful to you in PR.

Yeah, hosetechniques is nice. They will not fail you.

Re: cooler temps - the ability to change out t-stat temps will be helpful, and I just flat out like this design over the rover one. if I lived somewhere colder I would worry about thermal shock, but its March, its 85 degrees out, and its only going to get hotter. For now, waiting on the UPS man.
I already did the inline thermostat mod. I thought you were talking about using a copper or other metal hose instead of the thin hard line going from exp. tank to engine. Didn't realize it was all on Amazon tho. Did you use the BMW hose or a hosetechniques hose? Just curious.
 
  #32  
Old 03-20-2012, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Just run a 180 stat in line and it is all good. I have a 180 in my block, and was watching temps yesterday of 180-183 at 55, 183-185 at 70, went up to 192 in stopped traffic and right back down. Over 80F here yesterday. Consider that stat starts to open at marked temp, and is fully open at 15-20 above that. My 195 stat (went thru several) would produce peaks into the 220's.....

SWMBO has a Kia minvan 211K, 3.8 liter, electric fan, runs 180F like it was nailed up, 23-25 mpg.

Just like at the office, I'd rather not be in hot water all the time...
I'm running the same temps in my D2. My D1 is lower. 180 t-stat in the D2. 160 as you know in the D1. May go higher in the D1 to get better gas (and save on engine wear?).

How are you not always in hot water when you have this SWMBO?
 
  #33  
Old 03-20-2012, 10:03 AM
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Did not know you were referring to expansion tank hose.

I ordered H.T. hose for that. Don't see the point in replacing a stock pos with another stock pos. No need for copper, silicone will hold up better under heat and stay flexible. Hard lines + vibration and heat swings to me spell trouble.

I think it was the 3/16" I D.

I guess you could always do a combo of copper and HT hose, but again, small mod, didn't see the point. Plus the locals around me can smell unguarded copper from a mile away, like hyenas....
 

Last edited by ATLDisco; 03-20-2012 at 10:16 AM.
  #34  
Old 03-20-2012, 10:12 AM
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...the local around me....ha. copper eating zombies huh. here too.

that's why i asked...replacing POS with POS, etc.

so, what, you got the 5/16 and then routed it around the other hoses with zip ties or stays of some sort. i'd love to see a pic of your engine bay.

mine's a blue pit water dog. you'd be impressed with her ocean/wave retrieval abilities. she does rats and lizards too but can't catch a live bird for sure.
 
  #35  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:20 PM
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I'll try to get a pic up this weekend if I remember for that hose. It was part of another fix I did. I'll have it exposed again when I get my parts for the inline therm mod and get a picture snapped with the 'ol iPhone.

And yes, beware the copper-eating zombies. Apparently it's going around.

Mine does a lot better on birds after I slow them down with a load of #4's - she's one of our retrieval dogs on the yearly pheasant hunt.

Does pretty well in the water as well. Not too dangerous unless you are a pheasant, the UPS/fedex guy, or something falling off the grill out back when I'm cooking.
 
  #36  
Old 03-25-2012, 08:47 AM
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OK...this cracked t connector led me to the in-line t-stat which I did and am liking the results. BUT, one of you guys said it can create additional leaks which it did. But I'm not giving up.

My temps are great at 180-190 in hot weather so can't argue that. But I am losing fluid and as I know - and as Mike said - I need to do a pressure test.

I wanted to rid all leaks myself first and I'm narrowing it down by eliminating the crusty throttle body heater plate, replacing the old hard plastic lines which were crumbling in my hands and cleaning all areas to check for other leaks.

Truck was still losing liquid although pretty sure it's less and less. No overheat, no white smoke so I got that going for me.

After a good run yesterday, no apparent leaks...maybe an inch of liquid loss but again no bleeding done yet.

This morning I found some liquid on the hose of the inline. It's a repeat spot so maybe I found my last leak. Problem is the hose that I put is about a 90 degrees being bent to maybe 75 degrees. In my opinion I should change this hose. So now, if I can I need to find a 75ish degree hose that fits.

Arrow shows where the buildup of coolant is and line is the hardline coolant tube replacement and elimination of throttle body heater.
 
Attached Thumbnails Upper Hose T Connector Broke-hose-elim.jpg   Upper Hose T Connector Broke-eliminatethrottle-body.jpg  
  #37  
Old 03-25-2012, 08:55 AM
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Maybe I need a flexible coolant hose....
 
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  #38  
Old 03-26-2012, 05:57 AM
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summitracing.com also has flex coolant hoses, and free shipping at the moment. Not that it's necessary with a rover, but I do like the braided steel ones.

Based on where the buildup is, it would seem that the leak would be coming from the sending unit (glowshift part) or the hose going to it.
 
  #39  
Old 03-26-2012, 06:39 AM
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A stop at a Summit store, like the one just south of Atlanta on the freeway, is always fun - lots on display where you can look it over. A great "pit stop" in your travels, even if not buying anything today...
 
  #40  
Old 03-26-2012, 07:04 AM
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I'd love to stop by....

There's seriously a lot of ho's there.

Hard to choose just one. Also a little difficult. Need to figure out what this -AN size means and which ones I can cut to size length.

But, I think you are correct ATL....the last leak should be coming from one of those three connection spots. Thing is that I would expect to see some color or crud of sorts at the connection, which I have not been able to find. I'll pull it apart, tighten the t-stat holder and redo the clamps. Even clamps aren't too easy for the inexperienced. The clamps are how I got into this mess...over tightening the clamps on the t-piece. But if I fix this it'll all be worth it as my temps are just great and steady. 180-190 even after my 2 x 1 hr drives yesterday...about the longest distance I ever do really.
 


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