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Ok so I picked up an 04 non sai with 80k on it.
mine is sai but I got the cluster ,ecu and bcu out of same vehicle.
The plan is to pin the sleeves and refresh everything that is needed other than the normal stuff that normally needs to be done.
this one already had the pcv mod done on it.
Just keep SAI. Have your original heads remanufactured with new seals and springs, don't worry about pinning the motor. If it has a slipped liner chances are the block is cracked.
I have to minimal down time as this is a daily
was planing on the arp studs
and pinning is more of a preventive maintenance as it’s on a stand and easier to work on now. And mine has slipped liners so not sure how the heads are
One suggestion on pinning the cylinders - make your own tap for the threads with a grade 8 bolt, cut a couple of slots in it like a tap and grind some of the threads off to make a lead in on the end of the bolt. Be sure to tap slowly, frequently reversing to clear the threads. The reason to do this is you want minimum clearance between the actual pin bolt and the thread. You only get about 5 threads thickness in the block. Normal taps are designed to tap a hole with some clearance between the hole and the bolt. By using an actual bolt you wind up with almost no clearance, so the fit is tighter and you get a more solid fit. Use blue loctite on final install and it should be leak free.
One suggestion on pinning the cylinders - make your own tap for the threads with a grade 8 bolt, cut a couple of slots in it like a tap and grind some of the threads off to make a lead in on the end of the bolt. Be sure to tap slowly, frequently reversing to clear the threads. The reason to do this is you want minimum clearance between the actual pin bolt and the thread. You only get about 5 threads thickness in the block. Normal taps are designed to tap a hole with some clearance between the hole and the bolt. By using an actual bolt you wind up with almost no clearance, so the fit is tighter and you get a more solid fit. Use blue loctite on final install and it should be leak free.
Usually get the threads started with tappered, then change to bottoming style. Work slow, back and forth as mentioned to clear material from tap and hole.
If you are pinning make sure that you get the right size drill bit for the tap, a lot of times people just use the "nearest fractional" bit but that is rarely the actual correct size. For such an important operation it's going to be worth springing for the proper bit, that way you actually get the close tolerance fit you're after. I've seen them sell them as kits with the tap and bit included, but they are almost always taper taps, not bottoming taps.
Used engine budget rebuild
