Bottoming tap is for forming threads all the way to the bottom of a hole. When pinning cylinders the hole goes all the way through so a normal tap works fine. The difference in using a tap to cut threads vs a bolt is the diameter of the cutting tool. Taps are larger (even botttoming taps) to provide normal clearance between bolt and hole. Using a hardened bolt cuts the threads at basically the same size as the bolt with almost zero clearance for a tighter and stronger fit. Normal grade 8 bolt is plenty hard to cut threads in aluminum block and the thin liner.

I also recommend using 10-32 bolts so that there are more threads in the thin block sidewall section.

That engine looks very good, I bet there is less than .001 wear on those rod bearings.

 

Ok thanks extinct
question on the crank rear seal how does one do that one??

And the crank bearings look just like the rod ones.
pulled cam and don’t really see much wear on it.
same with rings.
I plan on replacing the bearings and the rings when I put back together. Over all I got something decent

 

If you have the budget I'd strongly recommend a crower cam and new lifters, nice little power bump (or smoother power curve) and a very quiet idle.

 

I did a post once on the rear seal/crucifix seal - search for it.

 

Ok I am still confused.
back of the crank where you bolt on flywheel. That piece has Allen head bolts there. So do I remove them ? And from there just slide off old slide on new?

 

Yes. Are you not going to take the crank out of the block? Look at the back of the block once you get the flywheel off - any sign of leakage? From where? Typically the rear main seal does not leak for the reasons I explained in my crucifix seal post. Also, be sure to look at the rear cam plug, those have been known to leak giving the impression the rear main seal is leaking because they are immediately above it.

 

Well parts ordered all except rings. Lucky 8 is waiting for shipment :-(. Luck 8 is 75.00 for the set of 8 and Atlantic British is 210.00. So anyone used the lucky 8 ones ? And should I just order them lucky 8 and just wait?

next I reusing the lifters and cam but what should I soak the lifters in to clean them?

and the front cover the oil passage ways that run down to the filter should I tear them down and clean of just soak in something?

 

Order the rings from Rimmer bros, I got mine in 4 days. No need to soak anything.

 

if reusing lifters, spray out the little holes with parts cleaner, let soak overnight in mineral spirits, spray out again. Then let them soak for a few days (turning them now and then) completely covered in fresh motor oil, and maybe even inject fresh oil into the holes....sometimes this gets rid of the violent 'dry' lifter tapping on first start-up

usually, i try to match lifters to push rods to each hole...if not replacing them....respects the wear patterns....

I have had good luck with lucas assembly lube.

get the crank micro-polished w/final polish opposite direction of rotation.....check old rod/crank bearing stamp(or measure) to see if it was an oversized one before buying new bearings...

new rings/bore hone? Easy to do with a fine hone and a drill......do you have a ring compressor for reassembly?

oli pump clearance measured? need a new one?

head nut torque: I used 70ft lbs...seemed to work out....

watch the fit on the lower intake gasket water passages!!

 

So everything cleaned up liners pinned and wire locked. Reassembly time well I thought it was new Maine bearing problems when I set the cranks in and put the bearing caps in no issues. Torque them down to 10ft pds no problem bring them to 34 and crank will not spin for me. Ok so what the heck am I doing wrong ?
and also double checked the bearing installed right way I double checked