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V288/FV308 PCV Install (Best4x4 Mod)

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  #91  
Old 10-15-2019, 01:14 PM
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so i my infinite wisdom I didn't disconnect the intake side first and when the valve cover side finally gave way I busted both the intake side and the brake booster hard line. I got the portion of the plastic separator out just fine. I'm more concerned with how do I go about fixing the brake booster hard line and connector? Thanks in advance...
 
  #92  
Old 10-15-2019, 01:17 PM
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For all those having difficulty removing the oil separator from the valve covers - if you've gotten it to the point where the little "disc" tier has broken off and there's the center post exposed, try this. Definitely give it some carb cleaner but then take a piece of garage/blue paper towel and use that to assist with grip between the separator and your needle nose pliers. Both my D2s gave me hell getting it out and both times after a fashion I was able to extract the separator with the added grip the paper towel offered me.

Low tech but it helped!
 
  #93  
Old 10-15-2019, 01:33 PM
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@whowa004 where did the brake booster line break ?

If it is right at the connection it is an easy fix. Further down is trickier but still simple:
  • You just need some hose that the booster line will fit tightly into
  • 4 hose clamps
  • A bit of silicone
  1. use a little pipe cutter for copper pipe to trim the booster line ends clean - take your time
  2. Put your piece of hose on, two hose clamps on each side
  3. Then put a small amount of silicone around each end to make sure you have a seal
At the end use the same method to trim, insert into the connector in the intake. Then a bit a silicone around the outside to get a good seal and make sure things stay in place. I had a crack just before the intake and this fixed mine up, nice firm pedal too
 
  #94  
Old 10-15-2019, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard Gallant
@whowa004 where did the brake booster line break ?

If it is right at the connection it is an easy fix. Further down is trickier but still simple:
  • You just need some hose that the booster line will fit tightly into
  • 4 hose clamps
  • A bit of silicone
  1. use a little pipe cutter for copper pipe to trim the booster line ends clean - take your time
  2. Put your piece of hose on, two hose clamps on each side
  3. Then put a small amount of silicone around each end to make sure you have a seal
At the end use the same method to trim, insert into the connector in the intake. Then a bit a silicone around the outside to get a good seal and make sure things stay in place. I had a crack just before the intake and this fixed mine up, nice firm pedal too
ah yea it broke right at the connection. I couldn't tell if the line diameter was the same after the ridge since it broke right on it so wasn't sure if that would work. Glad to hear it's nice and simple! thanks for the quick reply! Now I just need to drill out the baffles to try and pull them out with a screw...mine broke with no stem left to grab of course. Story of my time as a mechanic...bungle all the easy stuff and then cruise on the hard stuff.
 
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  #95  
Old 10-16-2019, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by whowa004
I couldn't tell if the line diameter was the same after the ridge since it broke right on it so wasn't sure if that would work.
That vacuum line is 9mm. I only know this because I noticed it was stamped onto the side of the red sleeve of the brake booster connector.
 
  #96  
Old 11-26-2019, 10:20 AM
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I updated my PCV, now my front cover oil leak has stopped - might even try synthetic (new rotella T6 15w40) this winter
 
  #97  
Old 11-26-2019, 10:25 AM
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Great choice!
 
  #98  
Old 01-18-2020, 03:58 AM
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I have a 2003 D2, which is pretty oily underneath and I've been advised to perform this modification, but I'm pretty confused, so I'd like to clarify a few things first:

So, to begin, I'll look at the hose that's closest to the intake manifold on the passenger side, disconnect it, and trace the hose back to the valve cover where the oil separator is located? Then I'll struggle with the oil separator for a while, hoping it doesn't break, but ideally remove it cleanly after plenty of wiggling and PB blasting? I don't understand where the metal nipple is that needs to be drilled out and if the goal is to enlarge it to 5/16"? Or enlarge it to 3/8"? I'm confused about this - is the nipple the same thing as the baffle? On an 03, isn't the oil separator the only thing in the valve cover? After installing the V288 at the end of the hose closest to the intake manifold, I'll reconnect the hose and then connect the hose at the other end to the sleeve on the valve cover that once held the separator, but after I put the nipple (or baffle?) back into the valve cover sleeve?
 
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  #99  
Old 01-18-2020, 06:34 AM
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Almost correct on all the steps to take.
On a 2003, the connection on the valve cover will be almost completely closed over by design, except for a small hole. In order to get the baffle out, you will need to enlarge that hole. The easiest way to do that is to simply pull the whole sleeve out of the valve cover. Once out, remove the plastic baffle and then open up the sleeve in whatever way you choose. On the earlier trucks the sleeve is just a straight tube.
The sleeve will gently hammer back into the valve cover. You do not reinsert the baffle.
Some people might be calling the baffle a nipple, because there is a small protrusion on the end of the baffle piece. When the baffle is in place on the earlier trucks, it looks like the sleeve is closed over with a small nipple on the top of it.
 

Last edited by mollusc; 01-18-2020 at 06:36 AM.
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  #100  
Old 01-18-2020, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
Almost correct on all the steps to take.
On a 2003, the connection on the valve cover will be almost completely closed over by design, except for a small hole. In order to get the baffle out, you will need to enlarge that hole. The easiest way to do that is to simply pull the whole sleeve out of the valve cover. Once out, remove the plastic baffle and then open up the sleeve in whatever way you choose. On the earlier trucks the sleeve is just a straight tube.
The sleeve will gently hammer back into the valve cover. You do not reinsert the baffle.
Some people might be calling the baffle a nipple, because there is a small protrusion on the end of the baffle piece. When the baffle is in place on the earlier trucks, it looks like the sleeve is closed over with a small nipple on the top of it.
I have an 03 and pretty much did this.

My metal tube came out pretty easy after a quick PB Blaster soak.

I used a drill and bit to remove the clogged up plastic deal. Then I used progressively larger bits to increase the metal tube's opening.

Overall getting the metal out from the valve cover was much easier than I expected. My D2 idles smoother post mod.
 
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