Mike
Air pressure 40 lbs - you mean air in the tires?
I'm using 92 octane and city miles is 13, highway miles about 15
Al

 

I DO have an Ultragauge installed. Problem with it is the Land Rover does NOT appear to have a computerized fuel sensor so the MPG numbers are just bogus.

The only time they become accurate is if everytime you fill up you tell the Ultragauge, but this is a little bit of a hassle and except for long road trips I never top off the gas tank of the Rover.

 

Speaking of staying off the gas pedal...what is the high end RPM wise if I'm looking for (more) decent MPG?

 

The instantaneous mileage uses the MAF information to calculate the MPG, watching that would be about the same as a vacuum gauge, when you lift up on the pedal, the MPG goes up. I used to have one of those "Mile O Meter" vacuum gauge thing on my 58 Chev (that's what they were called back then), the idea was that if you kept the needle in the green it would improve mileage, which it did but at $0.28 a gallon(for Ethyl, regular was cheaper), I didn't care.

 

Won't get manifold pressure, no map sensor on that model.

 

I had a long post somewhere about gas miliage...

Pretty much to sum it up:

Stay up on the tuneups, oil changes, don't forget filters and o2's. Stay on top of the tire pressure, accelerate slowly and consistently, keep pedal pressure constant (dont fiddle with the throttle inputs, it takes time for the computer to readjust everytime it changes to match), use injector cleaner everyonce in awhile, break out the carb cleaner and make sure the throttlebody, idle bypass atc are clean and free flowing and that the orings and seals on the intake are tight and firm. stay up on exhuast leaks and oxygen sensor plugs getting mucked up from oil from the back of the valve covers or road crap. Lighten the truck up as much as possible, including tire weight (and tread design on that note), get all the crap out of the truck that you dont need, especially in the cargo areas, ditch the heavy bumpers and guards when you dont need them (ie. road queens or 1ce a season trail riders), dont use the gas going down hill if you can sustain the speed limit or close to it safly without it...avoid uncessary short trips and keep your alignment in check. Other then those principles short of disabling constant 4x4, and putting a proper modern engine in there, these heavy *** bricks do pretty damn good for themselves considering they can still see above 10mpg even abused. they arent jap rice cars with 1.2 liters 3 inch wide tires and a 2200lbs curb weight.

 

Mostly common sense stuff.

Much appreciated!

 

ps. I rarely see above 2k rpm, ever drive pretending its a diesel truck haha

With a font a bar, new exhuast/head gaskets, full tune, 8mm wires, new maf, 8mm wires and +4 plat plugs, open element intake pullin "colder" air from the wheel well, aftermarket underbody/axle guards, fuel tank guard, 285/75 guard dog tires (heavyyy) and spare, ladder, full cargo bay (2 tool sets, jump pack, cables, full set fire gear, axes, pry bars, tow cables, cable puller, drill, airgun, hatchet, 230lbs driver and 3" lift I average about 8-9mpg on a bad week, 10-11 normal, and i have seen as high as 12mpg on days when i actually get on what nj calls "highways" and i drive like a grandma in a semi truck most days... i speed dont get me wrong haha i jsut get there slow and steady. mind you these numbers don't take in account the error in tire size from stock to 285 so in theory those numbers are actually slightly under report my gas miliage, i'm guestimating I'm probably getting a solid 11-12mpg in real world.

 

I found your problem. The other stuff sounds absolutely essential.

 

lol it's ok, I'm 6'2 hahaha jerk.

My average and instantaneous fuel miliage from the ultraguage seem spot on... the only thing i changed was I made the tank 20 gallons so the "distance to empty" reading was more accurate to what you get BEFORE you hit the gas light and start suckin down the reserves and fumes lol